Domino 500 w/ XL size tenons

[chuck van dyck]

Hey all

I'm working on a large storage system and thought I had it all figured out, then things keeeept oooon chaaanging. So when I was doing some test I realized that I was severely compromising the integrity of my existing domino joints by putting another domino though perpendicularly to attach the shelf panels.

I will attach a sketch of the project but here's what I am attempting to do. I will make a 28mm mortise in brackets on either side of shelf panel and a mortise straight through the shelf panel itself. I'll then trim 10x24x80 XL 700 size dominos to 74mm. 28+28+18(baltic birch ply). The brackets will sandwich the shelf panel and with a good glue joint should be pretty strong.

The original idea was to use through bolts but now I own a df500 so I'd like to make it work with no hardware.

Anyone use these larger tenons for the 500? Don't see why there would be an issue but I'm new to the tool so figured I'd ask for some second opinions.

Thanks for any input.

[Jim Dwight]

I don't think it will be a problem unless you have difficulty aligning all three holes. I don't think using longer tenons in three mortises that add up to more length than the 500 will cut in one pass is by itself an issue. But I would think carefully about alignment and/or use the slightly overwidth mortises in some of the pieces. That is something the 500 does better than the 700 (which I have and use with 500 size mortises/tenons). With the 700 you only have two mortise widths, I believe the 500 has three. I would use the middle width in two of the three mortises that need to line up.

[chuck van dyck]

Jim

Thanks for the response! Good to know you don't think it will be an issue either. I was planning on using the larger mortise width(middle option) on the plywood shelf and keep it tight on the hardwood brackets.

The model I bought came with a nifty trim guide so lining everything up shouldn't be an issue. I will definitely run another test or two so I can see if the accuracy with the guide is within reason.

[Jim Becker]

I have the XL so I obviously use the 8mm, 10mm, 12mm and 14mm Dominos most of the time for my work. (I do have the Seneca adapter to use the 500's cutters for smaller, however) My preference is always to use the largest tenons that will do the job while leaving the appropriate amount of material on either side for overall strength.

intersecting tenons are very much something to consider and there is zero issue with shortening the stock a little to avoid issues when you cannot orient intersecting tenons such that the "slot" for the second one can go through the "face" of the previous one so they interlock in a positive way. So if you can't move the tenon to avoid the intersection, then adjust the lengths. I actually buy the tenon stock in the 750mm sticks now so every one is custom length to suit the job. Less expensive that way, too.

[chuck van dyck]

I have the XL so I obviously use the 8mm, 10mm, 12mm and 14mm Dominos most of the time for my work. (I do have the Seneca adapter to use the 500's cutters for smaller, however) My preference is always to use the largest tenons that will do the job while leaving the appropriate amount of material on either side for overall strength.

intersecting tenons are very much something to consider and there is zero issue with shortening the stock a little to avoid issues when you cannot orient intersecting tenons such that the "slot" for the second one can go through the "face" of the previous one so they interlock in a positive way. So if you can't move the tenon to avoid the intersection, then adjust the lengths. I actually buy the tenon stock in the 750mm sticks now so every one is custom length to suit the job. Less expensive that way, too.

Jim, thanks for that response! Okay, so here is something I’m now debating since reading your reply. Would it be ideal to dodge the existing tenon, or to intersect the existing tenon and leave more of the walnut intact?

[Jim Becker]

Jim, thanks for that response! Okay, so here is something I’m now debating since reading your reply. Would it be ideal to dodge the existing tenon, or to intersect the existing tenon and leave more of the walnut intact?

"Maybe" is my answer simply because there are enough unknowns here that I don't want to commit. "ideally" there would be no intersecting tenons. That said, when I look at your diagram with the sandwiched surfaces, I'd consider very long tenons that embed in the end-grain of the verticals, passing through the shelf surfaces. Once the glue cures, it's NOT coming apart. There would be no added tenons used for the shelf surfaces. As to the square/rectangular frames. If you plan the orientation of the Dominos to assemble the final structure, you can cut the mortises for the vertical assembly such that they pass through the tenons in the completed frames but oriented such that they pierce the already glued tenon without cutting them. Hopefully, you can visualize it from this...

Cross-Tennon.jpg