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Thread: Maka SM6-Pii

  1. #121
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    Mark, good luck with the new website I'm sure it will be beautiful!

    I'm searching out distribution blocks currently, that seems to be the majority of what's missing, functionally. It was replaced by stacking up wire rings on terminals. Not the best way to wire something, aesthetically.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  2. #122
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe View Post
    Mark, good luck with the new website I'm sure it will be beautiful!

    I'm searching out distribution blocks currently, that seems to be the majority of what's missing, functionally. It was replaced by stacking up wire rings on terminals. Not the best way to wire something, aesthetically.
    I'm scared to offer advice - especially 2 days after your last post - - since I've discovered you are the Master of All Trades, Jack of None......but here goes.

    I've designed a couple (lot) of control panels in the last couple (30) years. Phoenix Contact is my current favorite terminal block provider. Look at Allied Electronics or Mouser Electronics sites.

    Two ways to go depending on space available, both use DIN rail:
    1- Look at a simple 2-connection terminal block (TB), with commoning jumper(s) installed to a give you the required number of termination points (wires land on the edges, common bar (cut to length) installed in the center).
    2- Look at QUATTRO format. This gives you 4 terminations per TB, and still allows for commoning jumpers.

    For a given number of terminations, option 1 will be relatively long and narrow, option 2 shorter and wider. ...What fits best in your panel?

    **************
    Been following along; impressive work so far! When you get it roaring, I want to ask, "why the Maka?" Everybody here seems to be big fans, but curious that Maka quit making them?

  3. #123
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    Gary Campbell might also have some thoughts on this...while he's "the" CNC guru, he's a master of all this electronic control stuff!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #124
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    Brian these are the standard ones that i see in the machines that i rebuild.

    electrical panel.jpgMakaSM7-1985-029.JPGSAM_5237.jpgSAM_4540.jpg

  5. #125
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    Thanks Jim, that is a good suggestion!

    Thanks Malcolm, I appreciate your insights, that's a cool setup! I had been thinking of the blocks that McMaster sells, but this more modular approach might work depending on how the rail lays out. Here's what I've been thinking of using prior to reading your comment:

    https://www.mcmaster.com/6367t16

    Do any of you guys know where to purchase this from:

    https://new.abb.com/low-voltage/prod...aptaseal-(new)

    I've been wanting to add another two lines of conduit to accommodate the additional air lines going into the control panel. I finally figured out that the thread in the machine currently is Panzergewinde size 11, or PG 11. This appears to be a fairly common European conduit arrangement but all of my googling has led me no where.

    If I add conduit, I can easily replace the existing conduit with the contemporary version of the exact thing so that it all matches.

    Thanks Mark, much appreciate the photos. Those are very helpful, I want this to wind up much more like that and much less like it is currently.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  6. #126
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe View Post
    ...
    Do any of you guys know where to purchase this from:

    https://new.abb.com/low-voltage/prod...aptaseal-(new)

    I've been wanting to add another two lines of conduit to accommodate the additional air lines going into the control panel. I finally figured out that the thread in the machine currently is Panzergewinde size 11, or PG 11. This appears to be a fairly common European conduit arrangement but all of my googling has led me no where.

    If I add conduit, I can easily replace the existing conduit with the contemporary version of the exact thing so that it all matches.
    ...
    The metric spec makes it tough on this side of the pond; even Canada seems to cling to imperial (1/2" NPT) for most fittings like this. I suspect bulk buying of small fittings like this is just too tempting.

    Is the thread you are trying to match in a motor pecker-head, or other deep thread? Or, in a thin-wall box? If thin-wall, I'd just drill it out to fit the 1/2" NPT - - but your diligence so far is probably enough of an answer. If you do go the NPT-route, you can giggle for 'liquid tight fittings'.

    If you must match the PG11, You might try Gerrie Electric in southern Ontario? If they can't supply the PG11 fittings, they may be able to refer you to proper source.

  7. #127
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    Thanks Malcolm, I’ll give them a call.

    The cast iron base of the machine and the peckerhead are cut for these threads. If I can’t get the fittings I’ll probsbly use an adapter for the peckerhead and machine the base to accept NPS.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  8. #128
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    Malcolm,

    Thanks for suggesting the two connection blocks and communing jumpers, really happy with them and they take up such little space that the entire assembly was about 3" shorter than the other setup I had planned.

    What are you using to keep them in place and which end cap is best? Thank you, kindly.

    Appreciate the comments and suggestions, this is shaping up to my eye but I'm certainly interested to take any criticism or suggestions one might have:



    When I redo the conduits I plan to reorder these so that the air lines and electric are not tripping over one another. Not sure why the electric was on that end of the box anyways, but I'm planning to move it to the far right, then the motor line and the air lines on the left.
    Last edited by Brian Holcombe; 11-25-2018 at 12:37 AM.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  9. #129
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe View Post
    ... to keep them in place and which end cap is best? ...
    Nearly any 35mm end-cap will work; I think this one shares the same profile as the TBs, so should blend in.

    Layout looks good. If you want to get REALLY fancy, you can color match the TBs to the wire color (makes working on it easy). Also, wire numbers are always a good thing.

    In a panel this small I suspect 90% of OEMs skip labeling because the wire runs are so short and so few. If wires leave the panel or run in wire-trays or conduit (hidden for part of run), then labeling is a must. (Since you basically re-built this from scratch, I think you'll be fine w/o labels. )

    Only other caution is mixing air and electrical. I am sure the other re-build gurus here can speak to the mess that will form in old panels: picture a air system with a decrepit dryer, a lubricator near the point of use, and a leak inside the panel - - it will leave a goo that defies description, and often shorts the electrical. I have even been called to document old systems that have 2-pos valves or other air components that intentionally (or thru negelect) are venting into the panel. Moral :: Outside can leak like a sieve, but make sure your in-panel air connections are tight!

    Edit: On 2nd thought, I offer something that is really nit-picking - - but you seem to excel at it (this is a good thing!!). Consider the 'flow' of electrical power. For instance, all the pentrations should be on the bottom, but then try to wrap the main supply line around to land on the top of the distribution TB, then feed off of it in descending order of voltage and amperage. Keep the air in one lower corner. This flow helps keep high voltage off of low voltage components, should a wire come loose. Again, for a panel this small, this is truly a nano-nit, ...but of such things come 'quality'.
    Last edited by Malcolm McLeod; 11-25-2018 at 8:48 PM.

  10. #130
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    Thanks Malcolm, I'll put those nit-picks to work.

    Appreciate the professional insights, I like the idea of flow from one end to the other going high to low. I put all the high side on the right and all of the low side on the left, so the right side to position seven from the left is 240v 20a and the left side is 115v.

    The wire numbers are a good idea, even in this box, the stuff heading out to the switch gets mildly confusing, I broke it up with black and red to make it easier to visualize, but numbers would make it dead simple.

    Might be best to baffle off the air connections so that they cannot get involved with the electric except for the connection on the air switch. I have seen oil and electric, that's not a pretty sight. I repaired a leak on one of the motors on my Bridgeport recently and there was oil all over the electrical connections, it was looking quite dangerous.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  11. #131
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    Bit more touching up, cleaning up and so forth. I kinda hate wire ties, but they really helped keep things orderly in this case. I've long wanted something better, but the wraps I ordered and used for the other part of the wiring were not so great and the short runs did not seem to warrant wire trays.

    Anywho, here we are and I plan to order those end clamps very shortly:

    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  12. #132
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    Hi Brian, most of the machines that i see have the wires routed through these tracks, the tops just clip on so are easy to remove for working on. keeps the wires tidy when you have a lot of wires.
    1-SAM_2875.JPG2-SAM_5697.JPG3-SAM_0577.JPG4-CIMG0622 (1280x959) (1024x767) (1024x767).JPG

  13. #133
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    Thanks, Mark! I will track some of those down and perhaps reroute these again and with numbers on each circuit.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  14. #134
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    All looks great Brian, but I’m getting a bit like all I want for Christmas is to see this thing tear into some wood. Are you going to be able to make that happen?

    Also, if I may point out one thing that looks slightly less than a Brian standard of quality:

    3C2C5B27-CC35-494A-9EDD-3FC8F19C5FF9.jpg
    What’s up with the jagged insulation cut? HA!

  15. #135
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    Hah! You’ve got me there. That was a cut made with dykes because I did not want to go back to the basement and get a razor.

    I’m not far off now, actually. I’ve got to finish the clamp mount and fence, then I can test the air system, electrical system and then bleed the hydraulics.

    Now that I’ve re-wired it I want to make sure the circuits operate what they should when they should before plugging it in. I want avoid having any magic smoke come out.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

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