Hi Joe, Thank you for your compliment and also that manual would be very helpful. Sharpening will be an adventure for certain.
Hi Joe, Thank you for your compliment and also that manual would be very helpful. Sharpening will be an adventure for certain.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Here you go Brian. There is also about 6 pages in the manual about the types of lube for the various models including the SM. It’s a bit confusing though. They have a drawing of my STV with the lube points and type and just list the SM lube but not where it goes.
If if I get your PM I can take pictures of these pages and send.
joe
7F1CE80E-5C0E-48B0-A001-B7C2D5EE56E2.jpg
No worries Joe, Mark sent over the manual for this model a bit earlier today. Thank you, kindly, however.
Thanks for the detail on the chisels. I see they say to lube the sliding posts pretty commonly, every 50 hours. I picked a long term grease for the aluminum body/iron sleeve area.
Was then:
Is now:
New bearings on pretty much everything now, I cheated and froze the shafts since I don’t have a press handy. Worked pretty well.
Might get to the machine work soon enough, the bits arrive soon.
Last edited by Brian Holcombe; 10-03-2018 at 12:37 AM.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Still waiting on the inserts for the dovetail cutter. In the interim I changed the majority of the bearings, cleaned the hardware and buttoned up the motor.
I have an adversion to painted hardware coming from the days of restoring cars. A painted bolt would always crack a line of paint around its perimeter, enough to painful if it was a newly painted fender .
Also replaced the beat up machine screws around the escutcheon plate and the locking bolt at the fence with a Krupp handle. Planing to replace the motor lock with a steel handle.
I found a light galling on the aluminum motor housing, removed that and greased with Molykote BR2, the carrier practically fell onto it, super smooth action.
Last edited by Brian Holcombe; 10-04-2018 at 10:31 PM.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Ya know...if that "other thing" doesn't work out, you can always become a an old iron restoration pro! LOL Darn...that's great looking work!
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Good choice on the unpainted hardware. Looks more professional and purposeful, to me anyway.
Haha, thanks Jim! Much appreciated!
Thank you, Nick! I'm looking forward to assembling this beast and seeing the whole thing together again.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Your reference to restoring cars caught my attention. Kind of like a Maaco shop, where they paint everything but the bumpers and windows.
Haha, anything not taped or covered was getting painted.
Working my way through the pneumatics while I wait for some tooling to arrive.
Broke everything down, cleaned, checked and greased.
Painted the pedal. Need to replace the knurled bits if I can find them, they work but a few were vise-gripped
Then the buttons:
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
The stops have been a concern on this machine for many, I’d like to replace the depth with a micro adjust at some point. For now I fixed up this.
I suspect this is automatic mig weld. It’s ugly.
I left the fillet.
Polished the contact surface then blackened the piece
Honed the contact surface to 3k, cleaned and blacked the shaft and pad.
wrapped up the last one of these completing the pneumatics less changing the lines.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Enjoying following along on this restoration, Brian. Thanks for posting. It seems we are bothered by many of the same imperfections...vise grips on knurled knobs should be a crime.
Thanks, Phil! Glad you are enjoying. I agree completely, and it makes me want to exchange the lines out for something else if I can get all the right hardware. I can get metric to AN banjos then use small sized AN lines with a nylon wrap that will look appropriate and work very well. This will also allow an easy transition to NPT without additional connectors or lines.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
The air piston clamp is pretty much kaput. It got damaged somehow (the previous owner disclosed this) and so I’ve been looking into repair or replace. I think I will replace it, I see a company called Fabco which seems to make a very nice pancake style piston.
I had been thinking to wait on the hydraulics but then thought better of it. Little sense in rebuilding 90% only to setup then take apart again.
These await further disassembly
These I polished up Mark Hennebury style.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
I'm enjoying this thread because I have never seen this type of machine before. I do have a request though. Could you resize you pictures a little smaller. I'm on a WiFi internet where the tower antenna is a few miles away and the download speeds are slow compared to a hi speed cable or fiber optic. It takes a few minutes to open this thread each time I open it. The pitfalls of living rural. Thanks.