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Thread: Maka SM6-Pii

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
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    Inkerman, Ontario, Canada
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    Hi Brian,

    The machine is a very interesting design. The driven shaft has a slightly off-center section to provide the swing of the oscillating head ( which the chisel bolts to) So it works a bit like a crankshaft. where it gets more interesting is that the oscillating head has a center plug with an offset hole bored through it, that fits over the driven shaft and cam be locked to that shaft in various positions radially providing an infinitely variable throw ( within the range) So you can vary the length of the mortise by adjusting the shaft and oscillating head. Of course all of the parts add room for tolerance, so you will have to check that all the shafts and bores are snug. then you can get and accurate readout of cut in reference to the axis of rotation and to the table.

    There are several things that you need to check;
    1. is the chisel mount surface a perpendicular plane to the shaft axis of rotation.
    2. Does it stay a perpendicular plane during a full rotation of the shaft. Does it change angle of elevation?


    Once you have established these two points are running true, then you can reference it to the table,


    Once you get it apart and make sure that things are not cracked and bent and worn you will know more and be confident on what the cause of any problems will be. then it is simple a process of checking and verifying each step.

  2. #17
    Join Date
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    Thanks Mark!

    So far I was able to check the main shaft for runout, it's .002".

    1) Definitely out of perpendicular, but the good thing is that the crank doesn't appear bent. The seating area for the chisels is a bit rough and I think that is what is causing the issue.

    2) Doesn't change elevation from one end of the throw to the other, but as it rises it does, which seems to confirm my suspicion that it is not perpendicular.

    So far nothing cracked, still checking for bent parts.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  3. #18
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    Dave Cav, thanks for the message!
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  4. #19
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    Bit of fun and a bit of a headache trying to unfreeze this.





    Last edited by Brian Holcombe; 09-29-2018 at 7:09 PM.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Goleta / Santa Barbara
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    958
    Ford Blue?? Kinda figured you for a Chevy guy . . . . .

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
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    Princeton, NJ
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    ....Petrol Blue....but I see it now. I picked Grey for the base that is pretty generic, maybe I’ll use it for the whole machine.

    I managed to unfreeze the eccentric, that took heat, oil, beeswax and a puller. Guess it wasn’t maintained all that often. so far I’ve discovered one noisy bearing also, which I’m happy to have found as this would not be any fun if there weren’t anything to fix.
    Last edited by Brian Holcombe; 09-29-2018 at 8:45 PM.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  7. #22
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    I found the table ways are not in parallel with the uprights. The table itself, aside from some scars is pretty good.

    So, now I either recut the ways, or have the uprights removed and re-bored.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  8. #23
    I've rebuilt a few of those things over the years. When running correctly they are smooth and quiet. They'll do a 3/8 wide x 1-1/4" deep mortise in about six seconds. There's a bit of fool around to set one up, so its not versatile like a hollow chisel mortiser but the mortise is far superior. Tooling gets pricey.
    Whenever I've got a lot of the same size mortises to do, I always wish I had mine back.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
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    Inkerman, Ontario, Canada
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe View Post
    I found the table ways are not in parallel with the uprights. The table itself, aside from some scars is pretty good.

    So, now I either recut the ways, or have the uprights removed and re-bored.
    I am not sure how that would happen, unless the guide rails got bent, seats cracked, casting warped or poor machining.
    You would assume that this was all machined accurately in jigs at the factory. There is no adjustment, so either it was not machined accurately at the factory or it changed after.
    I have seen the castings cracked around where the guide rails are seated before, but yours did not look to be cracked from the photos you sent me. There is not much metal around those seats to machine oversize, and it would probably be much more accurate to clamp the rails to a milling table and skim the dovetail ways. I have had a bunch of machine work done on several different models; shafts repaired, new guide rail made, motor mount re-bored, and base for guide rails re-bored and bushed, casting repaired etc. Its great if you have a good machine shop to do that stuff; I have some horror stories to tell. Not too many shops want to bother with small, fussy one-of jobs. And you may run into" that's close enough for woodworking attitude" from time to time.
    Are you going to do the machining yourself? I prefer to do as much as i can myself.

  10. #25
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    I plan to do it myself, anytime I can buy the cutter for less than what I expect to pay I’ll just do that. I found an indexable cutter that should be able to manage the cut, it’s a big one. The cut should be fairly light work. I’ll block it up by the uprights with parallel blocks, check them against the Mill then double check the ways and cut them.

    I still plan to get the table resurfaced, after all this I can’t see looking at someone’s cutter crash every time I use it.

    I have a great little machine shop, I used to work there and the owner and his son do the work. They do automotive mainly so I don’t see him having the stuff to cut ways but I will likely find out before I buy my own.

    I plan to check the rails for straightness also. I don’t imagine they are bent, but always pays to check.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Vaughan View Post
    I've rebuilt a few of those things over the years. When running correctly they are smooth and quiet. They'll do a 3/8 wide x 1-1/4" deep mortise in about six seconds. There's a bit of fool around to set one up, so its not versatile like a hollow chisel mortiser but the mortise is far superior. Tooling gets pricey.
    Whenever I've got a lot of the same size mortises to do, I always wish I had mine back.
    Bob, thanks for confirming my hopes that they’re quiet when running well. Mine is louder than I expected, but I found most of the bearings were on their last legs or just plain crunchy so it should quiet down considerably.

    The tooling is a concern, but if it can do what I expect it will be money well spent. When I have a lot of similar mortises to cut it will be a nice piece of mind to have them all neat and accurate.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  12. #27
    Makas are sweet machines.

  13. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by Darcy Warner View Post
    Makas are sweet machines.
    Yep, we used to use them for sash bars since no ragged edge was left after going thru the "sticker". The hollow chisels
    would sometimes leave a ragged edge even though the "sticker" removed a whole 1/8th inch of wood.

  14. #29
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    Nov 2013
    Location
    Crozet, VA
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  15. #30
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    Getting here was tough, all the grease in this beast is thickened and so everything is frozen and requires careful efforts to break down without damaging anything.



    A minor reward, I sanded and filled the chips then painted. I liked the green but I like a more modern aesthetic of color, grey and black. I’ve seen Mark do this on his machines and decided that if I get one I will do similar.

    I also peeled the dealer tag off.

    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

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