Maka SM6-Pii

[Joe Calhoon]

The Maka is looking good Brian! I think that will be a effective DC collection point. My STV has a DC hood that folds out of the way for changing cutters or making adjustments. It is a bit awkward even folded back and thinking about doing something like you have. Will be interested to see how it attaches. Does that model Maka reverse?

[Brian Holcombe]

The Maka is looking good Brian! I think that will be a effective DC collection point. My STV has a DC hood that folds out of the way for changing cutters or making adjustments. It is a bit awkward even folded back and thinking about doing something like you have. Will be interested to see how it attaches. Does that model Maka reverse?

Thanks, Joe! Excellent, very much appreciate your feedback. I'm working to make this an easy thing to take on and off if I need to have it out of the way for setups.

This model is reversible but, it I'm not sure if I can put my chip breaker on either side, I'll have to check that out today.

[Brian Holcombe]

OK, getting this machine up and running soon so that I can process some work through it. I'm running into a snag; I basically duplicated the wiring as it was setup how it arrived, cleaning up the ugly, but not changing anything. However, the previous setup bypassed an air pressure switch, so the machine runs all the time when the lever switch is turned to the forward position. I assumed at the time that if I put the pressure switch back into the loop it would correct this issue, it has not.

I need to ask a couple stupid questions so I can move forward with a few changes to my wiring layout and correct this issue.

I have a step down transformer in the box with 240v going to it and producing 120v

On the 120v side there are four lugs, two are jumped with a fuse, one produces 120v and the last line produces low voltage. I assume this to function like a neutral line, but I'm not sure of the function. It's not marked as a ground and the original setup did not have it wired to the chassis, instead it is wired to one of the lugs on the magnet starter's coil.

This is where my confusion begins. The previous wiring arrangement had the pressure switch tied into the low voltage (neutral?) side of the arrangement, however they had both lugs on one side of the switch, bypassing its function. When these are now reconnected properly, if the switch works, does it then affect anything? I'm starting to think that the switch should be on the 120v side of the wiring, not on the low voltage side.

The pressure switch theoretically interrupts the low voltage side. Should this be setup so that the low voltage connection between transformer and coil is uninterrupted?

- The hot wire from the transformer runs to a lever switch, when the lever switch is operated 'on' it runs to a pilot lamp and to the coil directly.

The machine functions, so I hate to start rerouting things without a clearer understanding of the implications, so I've formed some assumptions and I'm hoping to acquire some information to help me proceed in correcting these issues.

My assumptions so far:

- The pressure switch should be on the 'hot' side of the setup and not the neutral.

- The neutral side of the setup should be continuous, and not interrupted.

I don't believe the pressure switch to be currently functional in any case, so I'm sourcing a replacement. The air going to it is acting properly but seems to have no affect on the function. I believe the pressure switch has failed closed, so it is always on. I can't find any adjustment on it, so my assumption is that it has failed and not that it is out of its proper range.

[Brian Holcombe]

Here is a visual reference.

This is my current arrangement:



This is the "original" or as received arrangement.

[Malcolm McLeod]

OK, getting this machine up and running soon so that I can process some work through it. I'm running into a snag; I basically duplicated the wiring as it was setup how it arrived, cleaning up the ugly, but not changing anything. However, the previous setup bypassed an air pressure switch, so the machine runs all the time when the lever switch is turned to the forward position. I assumed at the time that if I put the pressure switch back into the loop it would correct this issue, it has not.

I need to ask a couple stupid questions so I can move forward with a few changes to my wiring layout and correct this issue.

I have a step down transformer in the box with 240v going to it and producing 120v

On the 120v side there are four lugs, two are jumped with a fuse, one produces 120v and the last line produces low voltage. I assume this to function like a neutral line, but I'm not sure of the function. It's not marked as a ground and the original setup did not have it wired to the chassis, instead it is wired to one of the lugs on the magnet starter's coil.

This is where my confusion begins. The previous wiring arrangement had the pressure switch tied into the low voltage (neutral?) side of the arrangement, however they had both lugs on one side of the switch, bypassing its function. When these are now reconnected properly, if the switch works, does it then affect anything? I'm starting to think that the switch should be on the 120v side of the wiring, not on the low voltage side.

The pressure switch theoretically interrupts the low voltage side. Should this be setup so that the low voltage connection between transformer and coil is uninterrupted?

- The hot wire from the transformer runs to a lever switch, when the lever switch is operated 'on' it runs to a pilot lamp and to the coil directly.

The machine functions, so I hate to start rerouting things without a clearer understanding of the implications, so I've formed some assumptions and I'm hoping to acquire some information to help me proceed in correcting these issues.

My assumptions so far:

- The pressure switch should be on the 'hot' side of the setup and not the neutral.

- The neutral side of the setup should be continuous, and not interrupted.

I don't believe the pressure switch to be currently functional in any case, so I'm sourcing a replacement. The air going to it is acting properly but seems to have no affect on the function. I believe the pressure switch has failed closed, so it is always on. I can't find any adjustment on it, so my assumption is that it has failed and not that it is out of its proper range.

Do you have a cheap (HF $10-$15) multi-meter? You can check continuity across the PS easily.

Your reference to ‘low voltage side’ threw me, but I think you settled in calling it the ‘neutral’ which should be correct. I often see safety related components installed on the neutral side of the coil in motor starter circuits; the most common being the overload(s) relay. The ‘hot’ side of the wiring to the coil is where the buttons and switches get installed (at least in my experience).

From the perspective of electrical flow it doesn’t really matter where the pressure switch goes - so long as it interrupts flow when and where you want.

If you wanted pressure switch to absolutely stop motor, no matter what is happening with switches, I’d put it on the neutral side.

If you have some automation scheme in mind - say to start the motor as soon as pressure switch closes, but only when an HOA switch is in ‘Auto’ - then I’d put it on the ‘hot’ side.

[Malcolm McLeod]

Have you done a schematic?

This is EE or Electrician’s bible, blue print, and troubleshooting guide all rolled into one.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks, Malcolm, greatly appreciate your input here. I’ve got a multi meter, and checking it. The switch shows no resistance no matter what, so I went ahead and sourced an adjustable switch. I sourced one that I can set below the minimum operating range of the air system so that the chisel won’t stop mid cut if the pressure drops momentarily out of the operating range.

Awesome, that straightens everything out in my mind, now.

[Brian Holcombe]

I haven’t written a schematic, but after this I’m thinking that, along with numbered wires would be a wise way to proceed.

[Mark Hennebury]

Hi Brian, This is a diagram of the basic functions for a Maka. so you have two systems, the power circuit and the control circuit. The control circuit is tapped of of the transformer. and controls the coil of the contactor to turn the motor on and off. You then have a safety pressure switch, then a start, then stop, or multiple stop buttons.


electrical circuit2.jpg

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks, Mark! Appreciate the detail. Gives much food for thought.

[Mark Hennebury]

My apologies Brian, I did the diagram with a push button start switch. The Sm6 models have an air foot switch
So a little revision:
the start on the Maka SM6 models is usually an air pressure switch that operates when the head moves.
When you press the the foot pedal, the head moves away from the start switch, starting the motor.
when the head returns, it compresses the start switch turning the motor off.
I think this is it.

electrical circuit3.jpg

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Mark, mine looks exactly like that with exception to the air pressure safety switch, which isn't in my setup. I'm contemplating the addition of a valve which shuts with an actuator if the air pressure falls out of the operable range.

Motors functional, air system functional. Next I have to install the hydraulic oil and tune that system.

Question anyone, but for Malcolm specifically, I've got a parker solenoid in-line to blast air through the chisel when the motor starts. It isn't currently working. I have it setup so that one leg is hot and one goes to chassis ground. However, I'm thinking that perhaps one leg should be hot and the other should be neutral in this system? Thinking out-loud a bit that maybe it cannot complete the circuit in this setup unless it goes to neutral, but thought I should run it past you before I change that.

I've only previously setup solenoids in DC systems and one leg always went to chassis ground, but that also was always in the circuit.

Next I'll be wrapping up the dust collection on this machine and hopefully soon taking a test cut

[Malcolm McLeod]

... I've got a parker solenoid in-line to blast air through the chisel when the motor starts. It isn't currently working. I have it setup so that one leg is hot and one goes to chassis ground. However, I'm thinking that perhaps one leg should be hot and the other should be neutral in this system? Thinking out-loud a bit that maybe it cannot complete the circuit in this setup unless it goes to neutral, but thought I should run it past you before I change that.

I've only previously setup solenoids in DC systems and one leg always went to chassis ground, but that also was always in the circuit. ...

Following on my phone, so didn’t read back thru thread history, but assuming your solenoid is 120VAC, then yes take one lead to your (switched) hot, the other to the neutral (off the transformer).

Let ‘er rip!!

[Brian Holcombe]

Awesome, thanks for your help!

Here is a video of the air/hydraulic operation. I think I have it pretty well bled now, the controls are responsive and the extension seems pretty smooth. I have it on rubber feet so it wiggles more than if it were bolted to the ground.

[Mark Hennebury]

Hi Brian, Slow it down a lot and take another video please.