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Thread: Maka SM6-Pii

  1. #181
    Yeah but I just paid a machinist to make me the parts and ordered the rest. I did nothing but tell the guy what I wanted. I also have bases for them to fit all my sliding tables.

    The stick back stuff you found looks like exactly what I need. By the time I was done with these having not had a relationship with a machinist prior I was pretty over them. The machinist I did find was a bit of a pot head a d went way out into left field reinventing the wheeel when I asked him for simple things. Point is I never put anything in the feet as I was just over it. I also noticed rubber base feet on other people’s clamps and figured I should be able to source them. After searching a bit I gave up.

    I need to make two more sets of these sometime soon so maybe I’ll figure out the feet next time.

    Your machine is looking great Brian. Really really nice.

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe View Post
    Those are nicely done, Patrick! Sounds good, medium-hard durometer rubber might be the trick.

    Here's what I'm thinking:
    https://www.mcmaster.com/1312n15

  2. #182
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    It came out nicely, looks professional. Well done!

    Im realizing now that I need to add a square reference to the clamp block, something which can be quickly and easily undone when it needs to be purposefully taken out of square.

    I have something in mind for that.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  3. #183
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
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    Brian - I just found this thread and read from the beginning. I own a 50 year old German car, and watching your rebuild brings back some good memories of working on it, and watching others on a forum dedicated to those cars rebuild components.

    I had never heard of a Maka before this but it is nice to see your work to such a high standard, and bringing new life to an old machine.
    Regards,

    Kris

  4. #184
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    Thanks Kris! There is certainly a lot of overlap between the two. As a kid building cars I never would have expected that it would be such a primer for woodworking.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  5. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martin Wasner View Post
    Submitted without comment....

    That looks an awful lot like the relay cabinet of a Weeke router
    ---Trudging the Road of Happy Destiny---

  6. #186
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    Planning out the 'dust hood' which may well be very simple, or mildly complex depending on the tubing shape I start with.

    Wondering, do you guys who have these machines running feel that 2.5" worth of dust port is enough for this machine or should I be planning on something larger. I've watched a few in action and can't quite make my mind up.

    Thank you.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  7. #187
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    Brian, my STV has 6” ports left and right. I only use the left side as that is the direction we usually run the cutters. The hood has a channel from the dust port to get close to the cutter. It works pretty well but I find the hood to be a bit cumbersome when changing and adjusting cutters. Hard to describe, will get a picture today.

    The SM 6 is a different animal though with the tilting. Don’t know if I have ever seen a dust hookup on those. Might be a good idea to run it a bit and see how the chips flow before designing the hood. I need to fix the air blaster on my STV at the head. I believe that would help chip flow and keep the cutter cooler.

  8. #188
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    Thanks Joe! Sounds like I need to bump the sizing up. It's an awkward spot to collect from because of the tilting as you mention.

    I'm building a new chipbreaker so I'm using the holder as a foundation for the dust port.

    I've been thinking it could be as simple as a tube coming off the left side with an angled cut to allow for the machine head to travel completely.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  9. #189
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    All of these holidays have been really getting in the way of the work!

    At last a bit of progress. Plugging away at the remaining parts to build and soon enough I will test some system.

    The fence is boring looking but that offers advantage down the road if it is needed for fixturing. I put some bearing bronze feet on it to avoid the screeching that comes with iron fences on machine tables that are not normally oiled.



    It’s not complete, I need to bore a receiver for the shaft and counter sink the bolt head. I will also cut and tap bolt holes to hold the Teflon plate.



    I also plan to shorten the shaft so that it’s not a knuckle buster.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  10. #190
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    Always impressive, sir.

  11. #191
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    Thank you!

    I picked up some stainless steel for the dust hood. Stainless was cheaper given the minimum quantity was considerably lower and the parts already nearly to size.
    Last edited by Brian Holcombe; 12-31-2018 at 11:14 AM.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  12. #192
    Looks real Brian!

    Goddam holidays infringing on work time. It’s a co start battle for me also. Get a day off work and finally time to work on your own projects and blam other people want my time. Really sucks to be wanted right

  13. #193
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    Thanks Patrick! Hah, it’s probably good for me to take a break but the itch to accomplish something is ever present.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  14. #194
    You gentlemen need some incentive. I took the 24th and 25th off. Worked everyday since.

    My incentive is getting drawings to the floor and code to the router so the employees have something to do.

    I even spent a little time polishing up my $400 shaper.

  15. #195
    Quote Originally Posted by Martin Wasner View Post
    You gentlemen need some incentive. I took the 24th and 25th off. Worked everyday since.

    My incentive is getting drawings to the floor and code to the router so the employees have something to do.

    I even spent a little time polishing up my $400 shaper.
    I was forced to not work on Christmas.

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