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Thread: Caster Installation Dilemma - Help to fix and design issue

  1. #1

    Caster Installation Dilemma - Help to fix and design issue

    My workbench is an upcycle. It was a kitchen cart that I converted to a full workbench/desk combo. However the installation of the caster presents a challenge. I have attached two pictures,. The first one shows the workbench (it will store few Festool and wood scraps/squares, measurement tapes, etc plus a small desk drawer for my computer when I use it as a desk (Mo-Fri). It is heavy because mostly made of BB. The other pics shows the joint/built where the casters need to sit (pic 2). Some of the structural wood is not BB. I was trying to use as many scraps I had but I should have thought about the structural pieces and use the most reliable wood (BB). Now I have to screw the caster on pine, oak and ply (PIC 3). Oak will be end grain, the rest edge mount ( and...I know...it is bad). All the bridges (45 degrees) are glued and secured with pocket holes (pic2). I tried to remove them to change and screw the face instead of the edge) but no luck. So my questions are: 1) is it ok to drill 3/8 hole for the bolt screw on the the 3/4 wood edge as per picture 3? 2) should I add a 3/4 square of BB as per other picture 4. If Yes, how do I secure it without adding more mess to a messy design 3) how far from the edge of the cab does the caster need to be (I understand that I need to be able to reach with my foot) but I might be able to have the installation diagonally (creating more base to bite on pc 5)? Thanks
    IMG_6456.JPGIMG_6488.jpgIMG_6495.jpgIMG_6496.jpgIMG_6497.jpg
    Last edited by laura vianello; 09-27-2018 at 12:48 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Those casters look familiar. I have some or a very close relative. You are right about wanting the lock release to be easily accessible. I actually keep a stick on my assembly table to release the lock because even though exposed, I can't get enough of my foot on it to release it elegantly. That is, I have to keep kicking around till it pops . You can see them here. Despite being as exposed as I could get them, I still use a rounded off stick to poke the lock "button" to release it. These are mounted with carriage bolts and fender washers.

    TS-Outfeed (37).jpg

    You state that the unit is heavy. Rolling is a lateral force scenario. You want those casters to be firmly mounted. I would hand saw the the bridge down the middle and knock it our of there. Replace it with a structure that gives you a solid pad to mount to. If the bridge is flush with the bottom edge you could mount a pad to it. Although not as strong it would probably be strong enough.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    No help but I have 4-5 sets of a similar castor, Amazon?, and have been very pleased. Economical & sturdy...and 40% cheaper than Lowes!

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    I'd. build a subframe with casters and set the cabinet on it. Dave

  5. #5
    I'd screw the baltic birch squares to the frame with flat head construction screws like you have it in the picture and the mount the casters with 1 1 /4 lag screws & washers (pilot drill first) so that the lags screws go into the framing. The lag screws should grab the BBB just fine and any extra holding you get from the frame is a bonus.

  6. #6
    Glenn, thanks for your comment. I love your unit, did you build it? My unit is heavy (everything is relative) because all the front drawers and door are BB, the legs are oak and I have a sustainer vacuum and the sustainer with the T55 in it and I keep scrap wood pieces in the drawers. The unit is 21x44. I will add two 2x4' tops (another 72Lb). One will have 20mm bench dog for my home made MFT). Hard to tell the total weight but the caster are 300Lb load each. The bridge is flash with the bottom. It is very solid but..it will be a 3/4" edge mount. I can remove the bridge but I still need to mount at least one screw on the edge (frame of the unit). I can avoid that if I put the casters at 45 degree angle (see my last picture): 2 screws will be in the oak end grain and 2 on a base that I can create (at least 1.5" wide and face screwed).

  7. #7
    Woodcraft, quite $$. I could not find any good advice in any forum about AMZ casters, so I gave up. What Amazon casters did you get? for how long have you been using?

  8. #8
    Great, I got the lag screws today. I will give it a shot tomorrow. If it breaks with time....I will redo with more support. This part of the project is slowing me down and i need to install everything to move the unit away to install HW floors. Andrew, Thanks you gave me some hope!

  9. #9
    You'll need to pilot and countersink the screws into the BBB. It has very little give unlike softwood plywood, which is why it should grip the lag screws well. Mark the holes for the casters first, or you'll end up doing my trick of putting a screw right under where you need to put a lag

  10. #10
    Why can't you just put a piece
    of 3/4 ply across the entire bottom and screw into it?

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    I nade a good size workbench and decided I wanted the casters just proud of the base, so I could get access to each on easily, rather than them being hidden under the workbench when they are turned the wrong way.

    I put a 4" strip of oak across each end. that supports the bench and holds the casters.


  12. #12
    Join Date
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    I tend to overbuild so warning up front. I would just add a bottom of BB ply to the entire thing and glue and screw around the perimeter. I'd just blind nuts and install them in the BB bottom before installing it.

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