Ideas?

[Jim Tobias]

I,'m wondering if anyone has figured out a way to attach a larger bottom/platen on a 1/3 sheet finish sander? I have aome rotator cup issues in my shoulder , but also have some boxes(octagonal) that I want to level the bottoms. Normally I put down some PSA sandpaper on a puece of MDF and use manual movement to sand the bottoms flat. I was thinking I might try to attach a piece of 12" x 12" BB ply(1/2") and apply sandpaper and clamp it upside down in my bench vice and just guide/control the box on top to flatten.
What are your thoughts? Other suggestions??
Thanks,
Jim

[Rick Potter]

If you happen to have a plastic or better, phenolic, router table insert around, it might be cut to the right size and attached to the sander. I think you can buy pieces of phenolic somewhere, but don't know where that would be.

Hope this helps.

[Jim Tobias]

Thanks Rick, I do have a shhet of phenolic that I bought awhile back from Woodcraft. That's a good idea.

Jim

[Doug Hepler]

Jim,

Have you considered cutting the bottom flat with a bandsaw?

Doug

[Jim Tobias]

Yes, I have used that method before but typically still have to do some "smoothing" with sandpaper. The top edge and bottom edge will be uncovered to anyone picking up the top or flipping over the box to look at bottom. In the case of veneered pieces, the edges of the top will be filled and painted to cover BB ply edges.

Jim

[Jim Tobias]

Update. I cut a piece of phenolic that I had (12" X 12") and attached it to the finish sander. I bought it from Harbor Freight so I could try this idea out without messing up an expensive sander. I tried it out today and it actually works very well. I used 180 grit PSA sandpaper from Klingspor. I think tomorrow I will try 150 grit and it will be a little quicker and still be smooth enough.
If that works well, I will start looking around for a used 1/2 sheet finish sander that is higher quality and also variable speed. That would give me a larger platen surface to attach to and a higher amp motor with variable speed.
The burn marks from the miter saw were sanded away with little effort....just guiding/controlling it. These 3 are maple(which I will cover the outside with raffia material), wormy chestnut and spalted maple.

Jim
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20180928_200210.jpg This one is before sanding.
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[Bill Dufour]

I think adding any weight to the sanding pad will make the machine shake more in the hands, simple physics.
Bil lD.

[Jim Tobias]

Bill,
I'm not sure I understand. I added the larger surface to the sanding pad but I do not hold the sander in my hands. I turn the sander upside down and clamp(for now anyway) in the bench vice and turn it on. The enlarged sanding pad is facing up. I hold/control the piece on top of the sanding area.

Jim

[Rick Potter]

Nice thinking outside the box, Jim. You have given me an idea. I have a 40 year old Craftsman half sheet sander that I recently tried to give to a couple friends, with no takers. It is heavy, and built like a tank, but the pad is worn out.

I think I will make a nice box to hold it upside down, put an oversize phenolic plate on it, and have me a nice benchtop sander. What have I got to lose?

[Jim Tobias]

Thanks Rick....it works better than I expected. I'm sure I will make a few tweaks along the way(like your idea of making a box to secure the sander in). Now I just need to find an old workhorse finish sander!

Jim