Wedgie sled or accurate miter gauge?

[Alex Zeller]

I'm trying to decide which would be better. I want to make something that I can cut segmented pieces of wood but can be used on different saws (and maybe even a router table). I was thinking that if I got something like the Incra 1000HD that's accurate down to 1/10 of a degree I could mount plywood to the bottom of the aluminum fence and turn it into a sled. Since the fence is able to move sideways I should be able to adjust it for the piece of equipment I'm using.

If I understand correctly the wedgie sled isn't as accurate making the angles but because they compliment each other it doesn't matter making for an easier set up. But does that mean that each time you set it up the angles will be slightly different vs doing the math and setting the exact angle? I'm sure while learning I'll be making extra pieces just in case I mess up. But I would rather not have extra pieces of wood that I now need to match up the exact angle on to get a good fit.

I was hopping to be able to use a toggle clamp to hold any small pieces in place against the sled's plywood (for safety reasons).

[Chris A Lawrence]

The wedgie sled does not require you to flip the board for each cut. I found it to be accurate enough that i can assemble 24 segment rings all in one shot without problems. Over that i do assembly in a couple steps but that is more due to glue up time then accuracy of the cut. I found a diy for the wedgies on youtube that is adjustable. You make it and make rings slightly adjusting it until you get a perfect ring then glue the adjustment in place and remove the adjusting lever.

[Bob Coates]

I am on my Fourth generation wedge sled. First was fix multiple fences that would cut one size angle for number of segments I wanted and required flipping the board for each cut. At that time is was for 12, 15, and 16 segment rings.
I then saw Jerry Bennett's you tube. Of course I wasn't sure how good. it was and seemed lot of trouble to make. First cut was pretty rough and after using Alex ideas I made my own Wedges. I was making isosceles wedges and took a lot of trouble to get the rings to fit, Had success with whole number angles not so good on 16 and 32. . Didn't like the way the arms moved in the cut slots so modified the slots, but still not happy. Then I saw a youtube where they made the arms bolts slide in two slots. Enter Fourth -- I had two aluminum t slots and used one to fit the saw track, and the other as hold down for arms. It is very easy to move the arms and can make non isosceles ring wedges. Can produce interesting results when ring wedges are not isosceles triangles.
As for wedge to set the arms I now make right triangles, so that 20 segmented ring pattern wedge is cut at 18 degrees instead of the normal two sides at 9 degrees.. I have pattern wedges made that I can cut from 9 to 64 wedges per ring. I also will mix wedges in a ring ie, 16 and 32.
Use a tapper jig to cut the wedge pattern20180423_121618.jpg Two pattern wedges are shown on the sled. The t slot allows easy movement and shapes of cut ring wedges.

[Dave Zellers]

The problem with making your own sled with an Incra 1000HD, is that when you rotate the miter gauge to your desired angle, the sled base moves with it. This negates your zero clearance advantage on the sled.

I do own the 1000HD and the ability to dial in on a fraction of a degree is awesome but if you can afford it, it would best be applied to the Incra Miter Sled.

Hey- it's not like they didn't figure all this out in advance.

[ELY WALTON]

You may also want to consider a good quality chop saw... works for me!

Ely

[Tony Joyce]

I've found the "MiterSet Segments" to be extremely helpful for cutting segments.

https://miterset.myshopify.com/

I have no affiliation, just a satisfied customer.

[Alex Zeller]

Thanks for the input. This is what I'm thining (which could be flawed).

Chris, I was hoping not to spend lots of time and wood trying to fine tune the angle. I'm sure with more experience it might be different but I could see myself cutting up 16 segments and not being happy with the fit. After making an adjustment and cutting 16 more still not being happy. That's why I was thinking maybe going with something like the 1000HD.

Bob, that's very close to what I was thinking of making if I went with a sled. I was thinking if I added an aluminum T-track closer to the blade I could use a toggle clamp and slide it into position. The toggle clamp would try to lift up on the T-track channel so it would have to be mounted securely (couldn't just be wood screws). I'm thinking tee nuts would work. I have a digital T bevel tool but it's only accurate to .3 degrees. I'm not sure if that would be accurate enough. I guess that's the real question. How accurate does one need to be to get tight joints.

The other problem, and maybe somebody has a solution, is that my table saw and router table T-slots are different distances from the blade/ bit. If I made the miter bar adjustable I would have to square it up each time I switched between the saw and router. I don't think it would be too hard to set the fence up to where the sled doesn't hit the blade but is close. but it would be another thing to engineer into the sled and it couldn't interfere with the T-track for the adjustable fences on the sled. It wouldn't be impossible.

Dave, Incra doesn't sell (at least I couldn't find it on their website) a sled with using the 1000HD. Their 5000 miter sled uses the 3000SE which is only accurate to 1/2 degree. That doesn't seam accurate enough for segmented bowls. That means, at least with Incra you have to buy the 1000HD and the Miter Express sled. The Miter Express sled looks very easy to make. It's basically a piece of wood (or some other material) with an aluminum T-slot in it and a T-bar mounted to the bottom. The Miter gauge just locks into the sled so the whole thing slides. Granted the Express sled has a few extra features to help hold the wood in place but for $150 I would most likely make something. So buying the 1000HD would still be needed.

Ely, I have a DeWalt sliding compound miter saw but I don't like using it to cut small pieces (why I was thinking a sled and a toggle clamp). Setting it up to a precise angle is not that easy. Plus the sled would be used on my router table. I wouldn't be opposed to buying a smaller, say 10" non sliding, non compound miter saw (one can't have too many tools) but it doesn't solve having a sled for the router table.

Tony, I don't have what I would call a high quality miter gauge. A nice cast iron one will easily be $50. The MiterSet looks nice but it's another $80 so now I'm almost at the same cost as the Kreg or Incra miter gauge which seams more versatile.

Again thank you for your thoughts. I've been bouncing back and forth over which way to go.

[Bob Coates]

Alex,
I was able to make my wedges using some trig and long taper jig on the table saw. To cut down on waste wood in checking, I make a 90 first and check using square. If good,. then 1/2 circle .
I can cut segments 8,9,10,12,15,16,18,20.24,30,32,36,40,45,48,60,64. I am working on a ring that has all of them in one and made a good fit.
Bob

[JohnC Lucas]

I made my wedges using my table saw and a Sine bar from my metal working. I have tried all sorts of segmented cutting systems over the years. Nothing beats the wedgie sled in my opinion but it is necessary to have accurate wedges. I don't do a lot of segmented work but the Wedgie sled has taken a lot of hassle out of it. As far as using it with other tools I don't know. Unless you were just looking for a miter gauge to work on other tool and not necessarily for segmented turning.

[Richard Madden]

As easy as they are to build, I'd make a wedgie sled for each saw and router table. I built mine for the table saw and I cut straight slots in the base at both ends instead of a pivot hole and curved slot. That way I can cut narrow pieces or wide (up to about 6" wide).