WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO RIP ROUGH 4/4 stock?

[lowell holmes]

I would rip the 4X4 on my band saw. After the rip cut, I would go to the table saw and then the planer/jointer.

[Jim Becker]

The other reason I don't love joining it while it's wide is. That it moves again from internal stress, as soon as you cut it on the table saw.
I can't thank you all enough for your input!!

It's important to try and remove approximately the same amount of stock on both faces as you joint flat and thickness. You will minimize wood movement issues that way.

[Rod Sheridan]

If you're making kitchens you need a sliding table saw, which will rip rough lumber safely...........Rod.

Here's a video showing rough timber being cross cut and ripped before jointing.

https://www.felder-group.com/us-us/c...tbox-content-1

[Wade Lippman]

Bandsaw is probably the best idea, but if you want to use a table saw and don't have a wide enough jointer... a planer might give a good enough surface to go to the TS.

[Izzy Camire]

Anybody near you with a band sawmill? That might be a way to go.

[Mike Ontko]

The best way is to not rip rough stock. Joint an edge and a face first so the stock doesn’t move and bind/burn/kickback.

I was thinking along the lines of what Matt said, but then recalled that I recently had to cut down a 10-inch wide board (an 8-foot section of 8/4 red oak) so that it would fit onto my 8-inch jointer. I snapped a chalk line and then sized it up on the bandsaw, but could just as well have used a handsaw (electric or manual) to rip it to a more manageable width.

[Mark Wooden]

I'm with Art-
Cut to rough length- shorter pieces are easier to handle
Flatten one face
Joint one edge
Rip to milling size
Mill to suit

[Martin Wasner]

If you're making kitchens you need a sliding table saw, which will rip rough lumber safely...........Rod.

That is a false statement. You don't NEED A slider to do it safely. There's many ways to do so. A slider is a painfully slow way to process hardwood as well.

A slider is nice for it's versatility, but it doesn't do most day to day cabinet shop operations as well as other options.

[Phillip Mitchell]

Ripping to a chalk / pencil line with a bandsaw is probably going to be your best bet.

[Warren Lake]

Cross cut an inch over or less depending and rip your material over width. there is no set amount over width because you determine by the material and the lengths you are working to, some moves more than other stuff and longer length you need more. Andy sounds like you do a volume of machining solid so cant see the fear thing on ripping rough stock or you werent taught the basics. If you want to do your best work then you break your material down to the smallest pieces. Rod your father in laws statement about not wanting to joint and plane firewood has minor logic but its not the reason breaking down to just over size. Its about tension release not that its a waste machining material that wont be used in the final product.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

If you're making kitchens you need a sliding table saw, which will rip rough lumber safely...........Rod.

Here's a video showing rough timber being cross cut and ripped before jointing.

https://www.felder-group.com/us-us/c...tbox-content-1

I agree.

If you are ripping dry rough stock, doing the first pass on the slider should yield a finished pass to reference the next passes off of. To get two pieces of accurately ripped to width stock this way takes three passes through the saw, one on the carriage, one each against the rip fence. A bandsaw approach will require a rip, multiple jointer passes, then the rip against a fence, at least 5 passes. Slider saves time, time is $. The best approach is a straight line rip saw probably, but most of us probably don't have one of those. Consider having the mill do one edge, may be cheaper and save you time ($).

[Warren Lake]

Lets use your example your piece is 4 feet long and 8" wide say, you want ot make a 2 1/4 style, you rip the outside edge and its straight, then you turn your piece and rip to width, Now you have a piece ripped to width and its likely not straight now. A slider has no magical properties to get past tension release. so what is your process from rough material to finished width including jointing and planing.

[Sam Blasco]

For door parts (and most pieces less than 3" wide or so) I cross cut to rough lengths, flatten one face, straight line one edge square to that face, rip on the bandsaw about 1/4" wider than I need. Double check straight line after the tension is released due to ripping, and if it needs it, a quick pass or two on the jointer, thickness everything on the planer, I then get my final width running the boards thru the planer on edge. I did a video of this on my youtube channel. Here's a link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=654rJzIBgnY&t=345s

[Mark Bolton]

This is the best way we've done it so far.

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....ors&highlight=

I watched this again, and beyond coming up with some other conclusions, Im wondering.. do wear a fitbit and count your steps and calories burned throughout the day?

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Lets use your example your piece is 4 feet long and 8" wide say, you want ot make a 2 1/4 style, you rip the outside edge and its straight, then you turn your piece and rip to width, Now you have a piece ripped to width and its likely not straight now. A slider has no magical properties to get past tension release. so what is your process from rough material to finished width including jointing and planing.

No, rip the middle cut first. Same as anything, if you find reaction wood, you are making more passes. On a bandsaw/jointer system, you are reripping too or jointing multiple passes. On a slider, you just move it over enough to clean up the reaction and rip it again. Again the slider uses less passes. It's not a magical property, but it is a mechanical advantage...