WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO RIP ROUGH 4/4 stock?

[andy photenas]

Hello i am wondering what you guys do to make your rough stock the right size for pieces you will make? Most of my rough comes to me at about 5-8". So when i make doors i like to split them to make both stiles and i leave the rails in at
5 1/2" and cope them before i split them.
ATM i am jointing one side before ripping them then back to the jointer. Is there a better way?

[Martin Wasner]

This is the best way we've done it so far.

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....ors&highlight=

[Jim Becker]

Honestly, I don't rip the material until I've flattened it and made the other face parallel. That also lets me see what's in the wood to make decisions on what parts come from where. Ripping flat lumber is also easier and safer. That's how I do it!

[Matthew Hills]

Is it dry?

[Matt Day]

The best way is to not rip rough stock. Joint an edge and a face first so the stock doesn’t move and bind/burn/kickback.

[Art Mann]

I'm with Matt and Jim but I also cut the rough lumber approximately to length and then mill and size it as necessary. It is easier to joint and plane shorter pieces more precisely.

[jerry cousins]

+1 - put at least 2 edges on it then rip
jerry

[Jim Andrew]

My jointer is only 12" wide, so I have to rip wider lumber. What I do is try to keep the pieces close by, so I can glue them back together in order when bookmatching.

[John K Jordan]

...Ripping flat lumber is also easier and safer. That's how I do it!

Ripping rough lumber on the TS scares me since I'm afraid even a slight warp could cause a kickback. When I do rip boards too wide for my planer I use a hand-held circular saw or the bandsaw and allow a little extra on the edges. If the board is long I sometimes use the Woodmizer band mill - it's made for that! (Handy little bandsaw at times. )

[Mel Fulks]

Assuming a 10" saw I like to rough rip with an 18 tooth. Since some wood is going to move instantly while being ripped the fast cut helps to stay ahead of pinching .

[Mike Walsh]

Bandsaw works well for me

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Clamp it to a sliding saw carriage as long as the faces aren't too rough. Plane first if they are. One pass through the middle would yield the rail stock you are looking for.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Andy, I presume you're asking about a hobby application?

When I worked in industry we gang ripped and fed into a molder.

At home I rip rough material on a sliding table saw, about 5mm larger than I need and cut it about 5 mm longer than I need.

Then I joint and plane the material to finished thickness and width. My FIL is a retired cabinet maker, he taught me that because as he says " there's no point jointing and planning the firewood" by which he means the offcuts........Rod.

P.S. If it's too big for the slider it goes to the bandsaw.

[Jim Becker]

I'm with Matt and Jim but I also cut the rough lumber approximately to length and then mill and size it as necessary. It is easier to joint and plane shorter pieces more precisely.

I also cut to rough length, but forgot to mention that. Thanks for the reminder. I will add that if it's truly rough, I might skim a face on the jointer first, despite the longer length to be sure I can ascertain how the figure goes before making the "chop chop" decisions so that grain/color is correct for the intended project components.

[andy photenas]

I build kitchens for a living in a small shop by myself, I build about 10 or so each year. I did realize the roughstock was much too dangerous without some level of flattening and was just hoping there was a tool or a way to make it all much easier.
The other reason I don't love joining it while it's wide is. That it moves again from internal stress, as soon as you cut it on the table saw.
I can't thank you all enough for your input!!