Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 31 to 39 of 39

Thread: WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO RIP ROUGH 4/4 stock?

  1. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Bolton View Post
    I watched this again, and beyond coming up with some other conclusions, Im wondering.. do wear a fitbit and count your steps and calories burned throughout the day?
    HAHA!

    I wear a smart watch that counts my steps. Most days are around 15k steps. Busy days, 18k. No clue on calories, but I don't carry much fat.

  2. #32
    Steve we are talking rough stock, are you telling me you joint and finish plane to thickness first then rip to width after.

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by Martin Wasner View Post
    HAHA!

    I wear a smart watch that counts my steps. Most days are around 15k steps. Busy days, 18k. No clue on calories, but I don't carry much fat.
    Hence my masochists statement lol. Sometimes when I lay in bed at night I think my knees are generating enough btus to offset the gas bill lol. I've taken to leaving my phone (step counter) I the office because it's too painful to see the tally lol

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Western Nebraska
    Posts
    4,680
    Warren, it doesn't matter much to the ripping operation whether it's planed first or not. I do it after because as Rod said, no point in milling the firewood. For cabinet face frame parts which is what we're talking about here, it only matters that they have one nice clean face. Tolerances of +/- 1/8" thickness would probably be unnoticeable to 99% of the customers, and they wouldn't want to pay extra for over processed face frame stock. To that end, just plane it, don't face joint, and you'll end up with nice even thickness, which is better than good enough.

  5. #35
    Just trying to figure out how you approached ripping rough stock and it doesnt make sense if you say you rip it on the slider then go and joint and plane after then you would have to re rip edges again as they would not be square. IM not getting it but dont worry about it, most of this is six of half dozen of the other. I like all the material straight and flat tension out, face frames door rails styles whatever.

  6. #36
    Gotta disagree with Steve on that face frame thing. I've seen it done both ways. Moulder operater runs the stock then walks around doing nothing but yak about how fast he got it all done. AND noting that it's taking the bench guy too long
    to make the face frames. Surprising how many shop owners allow that stuff. A knowledgable business owner would let that moulder guy make a few face frames ,yak about how tuff it is too make face frames with crooked ,twisted ,bowed
    material. Then tell him "it's a lot easier and faster with properly run material".

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Western Nebraska
    Posts
    4,680
    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Lake View Post
    Just trying to figure out how you approached ripping rough stock and it doesnt make sense if you say you rip it on the slider then go and joint and plane after then you would have to re rip edges again as they would not be square. IM not getting it but dont worry about it, most of this is six of half dozen of the other. I like all the material straight and flat tension out, face frames door rails styles whatever.
    For the record, I do the whole process differently for different parts. Some may benefit from the full milling process, for example table top glueup stock.

  8. #38
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Bolton View Post
    Hence my masochists statement lol. Sometimes when I lay in bed at night I think my knees are generating enough btus to offset the gas bill lol. I've taken to leaving my phone (step counter) I the office because it's too painful to see the tally lol
    Anybody stupid enough to do this for a living is a masochist....

    Or there's some narcissism at play. Self hatred and a desire for punishment.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Dickinson, Texas
    Posts
    7,655
    Blog Entries
    1
    I have a carbide blade on my table saw. I rip a 1/8" off the board to straiten and edge and then rip to width.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •