Shimming A Table Saw Splitter

[Bradley Gray]

Perhaps you could make a tapered correcting shim out of aluminum, Lexan or even hardwood and epoxy it to the existing plate and shim from there. If it doesn't work a little heat will remove it easily.

[Greg Parrish]

Did you buy it new? If not, Looking at the welds, I’m thinking someone may have rewelded it along the way. They are not nearly as neat as the other welds on that angled area beside it.

[Joe Wood]

No it's from the 60s and I bought it in '93.

yeah looks like I need to make a very thin tapered shim :-)

[glenn bradley]

I use foil tape for shims and even for some moving surfaces without failure. The picture looks like duct tape but, maybe that's just from the wear. There looks to be adequate room to insert and remove the splitter without damaging the tape. Maybe a heavier weight foil would work?

[joel cervera]

I've used shim stock cut from aluminum cans many times on my Old wood working machines. . Its worked great even doubled or tripled up. Unless you need more thickness.. Than something else might be needed.

[Kevin Jenness]

" what tool would you use to grind in there, isn't much space to work."

A die grinder and or a file, perhaps with the smooth end of the file removed to get a long enough stroke. You should not have to remove much material.

Bill Dufour's suggestion of tapering the base of the removable part is perhaps more easily accomplished.

If this part comes off and on frequently, this would be a better fix than a glued shim that is almost bound to loosen up over time.

How did your dust pickup work out?

[Joe Wood]

Yeah I'll work on the bottom part of the splitter. I have a handheld and also a benchtop grinder, but I doubt those could give me a nice straight bevel. What type of a file would I use?

Oh the dust collection is wonderful! None out of the cabinet and just a little coming off the blade onto the table, I am a happy kid :-)