Hand Cut Box Joint

[Tom Bender]

Just cut some box joints by hand (used a band saw to make the straight cuts in). It's almost like dovetails but easier.

Why would I do that instead of using the TS or router? A few reasons.

First, I like hand tool work and tolerate power tools.

Then there is the chipout problem with cutting them in plywood.

With a jig it is easier to make a mistake and cut one wrong.

Last time I made a box joint the jig didn't work out so well so I would need to make something better. Not a big deal, just one more thing.

Worked out well and not too slow. Doubt if I will ever mess with a jig again.

[Robert Engel]

Tom,

Wow. I've tried them with a bandsaw and I gave up because there was too much setup involved. Pretty sure I built a jig faster than I would have spent setting up the saw.

Just a couple comments on your points:

1. Tear out is usually minimum if you use a good quality blade + zero clearance backer board.

2. Once set up, the only mistake you can really make with a jig is putting a side in upside down or mismatching the cuts. But there is a pretty foolproof method to avoid this and once you get going its pretty easy to get the hang of it.

3. Yes, I agree making a jig can be a bit fiddly. Check William Ng he has a pretty straight forward way.

I'm not telling you to stop what you're doing hand work can be very rewarding (mostly to the craftsman).

[steven c newman]

No jig..
Chisel.jpg
Unless you count using the width of a chisel
end view.jpg

[Don Dorn]

I actually find it more difficult than dovetails if using a handsaw. However, if I draw them out and free hand cut on the bandsaw to the waste, it works pretty well.

That said, I tend to stick with dovetails because it's more second nature. In actually, because of that, they should be better than they are!

[lowell holmes]

I use a sled and cross cut the joint on the table saw. The board is held vertical.

[Tom Bender]

One other reason to hand cut; It's easy to vary the width of the tails for structural or aesthetic reasons.

[Tom Bender]

Robert
I mark them out and just cut by eye along the lines then chisel out the tails, no setup needed.

I cut one board first then use it to mark the other. If I want to throw in a wide tail or even a dovetail as I go, no problem.

[Don Dorn]

Robert
I mark them out and just cut by eye along the lines then chisel out the tails, no setup needed.

I cut one board first then use it to mark the other. If I want to throw in a wide tail or even a dovetail as I go, no problem.

Never considered mixing the two - going to try that as it certainly is unique.

[Simon MacGowen]

Just cut some box joints by hand (used a band saw to make the straight cuts in).

Why a bandsaw was needed?

Simon

[steven c newman]

Quicker than a backsaw? Maybe? I prefer to use a backsaw for mine.

[lowell holmes]

In addition to the sled, I use dado blades.

[steven c newman]

Hmmm...see IF I can remember..
spacing layout.jpg
Used the chisel to mark the finger spacings on the two long sides of a box..
saw works.jpg
Bandsaw? On these, I can either split the lines( usually) or saw on the waste side
sawn lines.jpg
Because once the waste is chopped out, I use the fingers to lay out the cuts to match...LEAVING the lines..
chopped out.jpg
Used the same chisel that laid out the spacings. Chop a bit from one face, flip over and chop down ( be prepared, them little squares will fly straight back at you)

Use these to mark out the matching fingers, saw on the waste side of the lines, chop out the waste, test fit the corner..
IMAG0008.jpg
By doing that halfway chop on the face side, then chop down from the "inside", makes a cleaner joint.
chopping.jpg
This is about all you need to do ( board underneath was to protect the top of my bench) flip this over..
Chisel.jpg
Chisel can then pop the waste out.