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Thread: Bandsaw ... worth the effort?

  1. #16
    Sounds like a cool project, Lisa. And with you working in a machine shop, that should make things easier. Let us know how it goes.
    “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..." - Mark Twain

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
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    It is a go! I wired the motor I already had to a switch and mounted everything last evening. Bearings in wheels seem good, but I went ahead and ordered wheel bearings, thrust bearings and tires this morning. I'll pickup a v-belt on my way home tonight.
    There seems to be minimal need for cleaning, and no rust, so I'll remove the wheels from the machine tonight and get the old bearings pressed out. I'll also get the thrust bearings off and take a look see at the guide blocks.
    Thanks for your encouragement.

  3. #18
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    Mar 2006
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    Something is amiss here - it's not supposed to go this quick and easy. Either that, or you are way more skilled at this than I am (which would not take much skill at all). Ride it like you stole it Lisa.
    David

  4. #19
    I'd love to see a photo of the finished project.
    David is right about you being lucky for things going so smoothly.
    There's an alignment hole at the split in the table. That hole is for a standard taper pin IIRC. Maybe its a #5 or #6 taper pin that can be found in most hardware stores.

  5. #20
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    Nov 2013
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    Bob - I purchased this saw in the "assembled" state.

    Everyone - Is there a reason to remove the table? I blew out and lubricated the trunnions last evening and the table moves freely. The table checks flat with a straight edge, so I can't see a reason to remove it. I'll check for the taper pin when I get home and make sure it is there. I'm also bringing home a height gage and indicator to allow a closer check of the table flatness. I did see that the table insert is pretty banged up, so I'll look into removing and replacing it. The existing one seems to be made of Aluminum, any thoughts on an appropriate replacement material?

  6. #21
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    May 2014
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    ALuminun,plastic,plywood all would work. Whatever you are capable of making it from. Nice saw ,Mike.

  7. #22
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    Sep 2016
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    Lisa, if the insert isn't sticking up so as to interfere with table flatness, I probably wouldn't worry about it unless you just want things looking nice (I would).

    If you get into a situation where zero clearance with the blade is important, you can always just run a piece of plywood to where the blade is centered and stop. Clamp the plywood in place and you have a flat-surfaced table and zero clearance.

  8. #23
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    Nov 2013
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    Here are "as purchased" photos, except I had already mounted the power switch before I thought to take the pics.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #24
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    Nov 2013
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    1) I tried searching the S/N online to determine the age of the machine, but so far, have come up empty handed. The S/N is 12141.

    2) The 1/4"-20 x 1/2" HH Bolt and washer that hold the lower wheel on are missing. I'll just machine a replacement washer that matches the upper one.

    3) The blocks appear to be bronze of some type and have been reversed at some point. I can just load them in a vise on a Bridgeport and mill a bit off to square them up. I'll have to determine the angle to mill the 4th one, but that is very easily done. Would I be better off just to purchase some Cool Blocks?

    4) There is a tapped hole in the front of the table at the slot. What is the purpose, as there is nothing there now?

    5) I checked the table and it is flat within about .003", except at the outside edges which taper off. There are some pretty heft Blanchard Grinding marks in the table on those edges that appear original. I expect I'll just give it a quick polishing up thru 2000 grit and call it done.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lisa Starr View Post
    1) I tried searching the S/N online to determine the age of the machine, but so far, have come up empty handed. The S/N is 12141.

    2) The 1/4"-20 x 1/2" HH Bolt and washer that hold the lower wheel on are missing. I'll just machine a replacement washer that matches the upper one.

    3) The blocks appear to be bronze of some type and have been reversed at some point. I can just load them in a vise on a Bridgeport and mill a bit off to square them up. I'll have to determine the angle to mill the 4th one, but that is very easily done. Would I be better off just to purchase some Cool Blocks?

    4) There is a tapped hole in the front of the table at the slot. What is the purpose, as there is nothing there now?

    5) I checked the table and it is flat within about .003", except at the outside edges which taper off. There are some pretty heft Blanchard Grinding marks in the table on those edges that appear original. I expect I'll just give it a quick polishing up thru 2000 grit and call it done.
    1. probably early 50s but I haven't ever seen any good S/N dating for Atlas Press machines

    3. I would personally use the bronze unless you plan to use smaller than 1/4" blades regularly.

    4. The blade "slot"? If so that is for the table leveling pin but they normally aren't tapped but may be one the 912

    5. that's a good plan
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Waterford, PA
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    Thank you Van. I think I understand the table leveling now. I was looking for something under the table in the casting webs, but found naught. I'll determine the tap size and try the appropriate bolt. Here's a photo of what I'm talking about.
    Resized_20180921_110530_3228.jpg

    On another note, my new tires just arrived via the brown truck and it makes me question my need for new ones. The tires on the wheels now appear very similar. Blue, slightly crowned and some writing on the wear surface still visible. Since the person I purchased the machine from knew nothing about any of the equipment in the shop, I'm suspicious the machine was more maintained than she was aware of. I've already decided not to install any of the new bearings I purchased, as all of the ones on the machine seem fine. I think I'll just keep everything I've purchased for "when I need them" and at least try the machine "as is" once I dress the blocks and adjust everything. It came with 2 brand new blades (1/2" wide, 10 TPI). I'll install one of those for the initial test cuts and then change out any parts that seem problematic.

    More and more, I'm feeling quite guilty for making such a low-ball offer for this machine. It is apparently a much better machine than I realized at the time.

  12. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Lisa Starr View Post
    1) I tried searching the S/N online to determine the age of the machine, but so far, have come up empty handed. The S/N is 12141.

    2) The 1/4"-20 x 1/2" HH Bolt and washer that hold the lower wheel on are missing. I'll just machine a replacement washer that matches the upper one.

    3) The blocks appear to be bronze of some type and have been reversed at some point. I can just load them in a vise on a Bridgeport and mill a bit off to square them up. I'll have to determine the angle to mill the 4th one, but that is very easily done. Would I be better off just to purchase some Cool Blocks?

    4) There is a tapped hole in the front of the table at the slot. What is the purpose, as there is nothing there now?

    5) I checked the table and it is flat within about .003", except at the outside edges which taper off. There are some pretty heft Blanchard Grinding marks in the table on those edges that appear original. I expect I'll just give it a quick polishing up thru 2000 grit and call it done.
    3. That angle is a simple 45º, but I suspect you've figured that out by now. Van has good advice on keeping the original blocks. If the setscrews have dug a crater, rotate them until there's a new smooth surface.

    4. when the table was made, the last detail was to cut the blade insertion slot. Sometimes this relieved stresses that caused the table sides to get a little out of flat. The makers would drill the hole and usually taper ream it before making the final cut. That way, if the table did shear a little, inserting the taper pin would put things back where they started. I zoomed in on a photo I had of the finished saw I did. It sure looks like the head of a cap screw there. Probably 5/16-18 thread. Try that.

    5. Band saw tables need to be somewhat flat. Sounds like your table is just fine for the work a band saw would be doing.

  13. #28
    Join Date
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    1/2" by 10 tpi doesn't sound like a blade for wood, sounds more like a metal cutting blade, should be more like 3 or 4 tpi for resawing wood, check out Van's sticky post on bandsaw blades. (or wait for Van to comment).

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Garson View Post
    1/2" by 10 tpi doesn't sound like a blade for wood, sounds more like a metal cutting blade, should be more like 3 or 4 tpi for resawing wood, check out Van's sticky post on bandsaw blades. (or wait for Van to comment).
    I was going to mention that but forgot to. Once it is up and running it will be time to consider the blade question. On small saws I think a general purpose 1/4" 6TPI carbon blade is hard to beat for versatility and would be my choice if I didn't have specific cuts in mind. It works down to 5/8-3/4" radius curves and down to 1/2" material. If the OP has a more specific use planned then there are likely better blades for the task.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Waterford, PA
    Posts
    1,225
    Thank you everyone for your input so far. After spending quite a bit of time in the shop yesterday, I have the tool clean and re-assembled. For testing purposes, I loaded one of 10 TPI blades and it is running in the center of the wheels. I resurfaced the bronze guides and have them adjusted per the "paper clearance" recommendations. Also, I have them adjusted to ride approx. 1/16" behind the tooth gullet. That may need to be adjusted when I get the correct blades.

    My next steps are to acquire a different pulley for the motor, as the manual states a 2-1/2" motor pulley was supplied with the machine, but the one from the dead motor was 3". That should correct the blade speed to the recommended 2050 SFM.

    I was digesting the sticky post on bandsaw blades a few minutes ago and will be trying to decide where to purchase those later today.

    I'll post photos once those last details are buttoned up.

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