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Thread: Tool rust prevention

  1. #31
    Julie,
    WD 40 Specialist is greasy kid stuff. It goes on about like TriFlow. I wipe it all off, but there's still an oily film left, and that seems to work okay here in the desert. In Florida, you'll probably want to leave it pretty wet, and I expect that's an issue with glueing and finishing. I have no experience with Frog Lube. It still seems like the best option would be some sort of wax that dries completely like Johnson's Paste Wax, but waxes don't seem to offer much protection unless they're religiously applied at short intervals. Sigh.
    dp


  2. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Dickinson, Texas
    Posts
    6,441
    I have 2 cans of wax and a rag somewhere around my bench and my tools are wiped frequently.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Posts
    1,914
    FWW magazine tested rust preventers a few years ago. CRC 3-36 was their best overall. I've been using it ever since, with good results. I get mine on Amazon.

    Their impression was that Johnson's paste wax doesn't provide much protection against rust in their tests.
    If you drive at the speed of light, do your headlights work? - Steven Wright

    If a man points at the moon, an idiot will look at the finger.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Amite, LA
    Posts
    78
    I have a small can from sliced olives that I stuffed a coiled old towel into. I put several drops of light oil on the towel to begin with and refresh occasionally with just a few drops. I wipe down hand tools after knocking any wood dust/chips from them. This was a Pail Sellers tip. For larger machines, I use paste wax, but the most effective thing, IMHO, is that I run a small (6K btu) window unit in an 800 sq ft shop. The south Louisiana humidity is really bad and this marginally cools the shop, dehumidifies the air pretty well, and keeps me from sweating on my work and tools. I do get a bit clammy, but do not have sweat dripping off. The shop is built tight and the a/c does not need to run more than 5-6 hours every other day to work. Other than buying the a/c unit $125, the cost to run it is minimal and I'm not constantly cleaning and refreshing the cast iron and steel surfaces on lots of surfaces.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Dickinson, Texas
    Posts
    6,441
    I absolutely disagree with their assessment of Johnson's floor wax. I have a garage wood shop in Galveston County Texas.
    It is humid and tools rust in this climate. My tools do not rust after I put Johnson's wax on them. It doesn't cost much to try it out.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    N Illinois
    Posts
    4,423
    I've also had good results w Johnsons Paste wax...A can lasts forever....I also keep a dehumidifier running in shop during the hot, humid months.
    Very few new rust appearances.
    Jerry

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Kansas City
    Posts
    680
    Chime back in on this thread a year later.

    I follow this protocol and have had zero issues through a very humid summer. First, I got a dehumidifier, and that has helped tremendously. Otherwise, I use Boeshield, let it soak in for a good hour, then follow up with paste wax.

    Now if it would just cool off enough so I could get back in the shop.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Redding, CA (That's in superior Calif.)
    Posts
    812
    It's been 100 or + everyday here. I bought a portable Sharp ac unit (on wheels). It vents to the outside with a 6" stretch hose to the window. I mounted the vent to a board to fit in the sliding window slot. I put the board in place and shut the window against it. I block the window with a 2 x 4 to prevent opening the window from the outside. I remove it all when summer is over. The Sharp unit has held up well and made it through a fire unscathed. I just use the single car area of a 3 car garage. The unit does remove the moisture and the hose is quite warm to the touch. It doesn't cool the whole garage but at least my work area is tolerable at 82 degrees. YMMV
    Project Salvager

    The key to the gateway of wisdom is to know that you don't know.______Stan Smith

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Kansas City
    Posts
    680
    Quote Originally Posted by Stan Smith View Post
    It's been 100 or + everyday here. I bought a portable Sharp ac unit (on wheels). It vents to the outside with a 6" stretch hose to the window. I mounted the vent to a board to fit in the sliding window slot. I put the board in place and shut the window against it. I block the window with a 2 x 4 to prevent opening the window from the outside. I remove it all when summer is over. The Sharp unit has held up well and made it through a fire unscathed. I just use the single car area of a 3 car garage. The unit does remove the moisture and the hose is quite warm to the touch. It doesn't cool the whole garage but at least my work area is tolerable at 82 degrees. YMMV

    My issue is I don't have a window in my garage. And since I'm moving in a year or so, I don't really want to bother with either installing a minisplit or a window. But it is getting more tempting by the day.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Redding, CA (That's in superior Calif.)
    Posts
    812
    Quote Originally Posted by Jacob Mac View Post
    My issue is I don't have a window in my garage. And since I'm moving in a year or so, I don't really want to bother with either installing a minisplit or a window. But it is getting more tempting by the day.
    Certainly don't blame you for not spending $ if you are planning on moving. For those who have windows, I forgot to mention that my Sharp ac is portable on wheels. Also I didn't do any structural changes to the window. I do apply tape where things come together.
    Project Salvager

    The key to the gateway of wisdom is to know that you don't know.______Stan Smith

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