Tool rust prevention

[lowell holmes]

In the current issue of This Old House Magazine, a reader ask Tom Silva how he prevents rust on his tools.
I live in Galveston County Texas, so I Know a bit about rust.
I coat my tools with Johnson's Floor Wax. They do not rust.

I thought some new woodworkers might be interested.

[David Eisenhauer]

Johnsons has worked for my tools and cast iron tops for years as well Lowell. A can lasts forever too. It also lubes saw sides so they cut easier after an application.

[Frederick Skelly]

I use Johnson's. I'm also trying out using a coat of wipe on varnish. The varnish is holding off the rust very well after about 6 mos.

[lowell holmes]

I just found two 10" pipe wrenches that were rusty. I hit them with the wire wheel and Johnson's wax and they rust no more.

Every day, week or so, I find something else that was wet.

[Bill Dindner]

I have similar results form Crystal Clear paste wax, but it’s allot more expensive than SC Johnson paste wax, think I’ll try it next time.

[Richard Amabile]

Add my vote for Johnson's wax. I have been using it for years in a very damp Houston climate. It works well and usually lasts for at least a few months depending on the amount of use of the tool. I find it particularly good for table saw tops and jointer tops.

[Jacob Mac]

I used Johnson's a ton this summer in KC and my tools rusted a lot. I was feverishly applying it and it wouldn't stop the rust. Not a huge deal, but it makes me sad everytime I look at my table saw top.

[Nick Decker]

Jacob, I went through the same frustration when using Johnson's only. What I did was use Boeshield T-9 before a final wax finish. No more rust.

[tom lucas]

If you are getting rust even with Johnson's, are you keeping the surfaces clean and free of sawdust? Sawdust absorbs moisture and will cause equipment to rust. But, yes first treat surface with T9 or gun oil or similar. My shop is unheated/uncooled/uninsulated. It gets very hot, very humid, and very cold. Sometimes I have to watch liquid containers; they will sweat just from the change in the weather. Rule one is no cold drinks on surfaces ever and no liquid bottles of anything left on surfaces overnight. I put on the wax and leave it. I don't polish it after it dries. I leave it thick and dull until I'm doing the next big job. Then I polish is off before using equipment to leave a slick surface. After use, clean off all sawdust and reapply wax. Even if I don't have time to wax, I always dust off the tops. To remove wax fast I use orange furniture cleaner/oil.

[tom lucas]

johnsons paste wax is also a good lubricant for wood threads and sliding parts, like a tablesaw fence or drawer glides. I use the stuff everywhere. Cheap, relatively nontoxic, and effective.

[Robert Engel]

I used Johnson's a ton this summer in KC and my tools rusted a lot. I was feverishly applying it and it wouldn't stop the rust. Not a huge deal, but it makes me sad everytime I look at my table saw top.

I live in a climate that 1/2 the year has rain forest type humidity. I quit using wax a number of years ago.

That said, as many have attested, wax can work, but IMO not in every shop and every climate. I could be wrong, but my take is wax can't totally prevent rust because it can't completely seal off oxygen from the metal. Condensation can still form under the wax.

The more frequently you use your machines, the less problems you'll have. (I think this is the #1 preventer of rust!!)

So Jacob, here's what works for me (even now in the most humid time of the year):

1. Keep shop closed up at night.
2. Leave a fan running.
3. When you do see rust, sand it off right away, apply WD40 or a rust remover solution, clean with brake cleaner and apply a protectant.
4. Keep your machines coated with a petroleum based product like Boeshield.

[Stan Smith]

I live in a climate that 1/2 the year has rain forest type humidity. I quit using wax a number of years ago.

That said, as many have attested, wax can work, but IMO not in every shop and every climate. I could be wrong, but my take is wax can't totally prevent rust because it can't completely seal off oxygen from the metal. Condensation can still form under the wax.

The more frequently you use your machines, the less problems you'll have. (I think this is the #1 preventer of rust!!)

So Jacob, here's what works for me (even now in the most humid time of the year):

1. Keep shop closed up at night.
2. Leave a fan running.
3. When you do see rust, sand it off right away, apply WD40 or a rust remover solution, clean with brake cleaner and apply a protectant.
4. Keep your machines coated with a petroleum based product like Boeshield.

My table saw top has held up fine with the T9 Boeshield and moving blanket (folded double). I bought another one for $4.99 from HF yesterday for my band saw top and lathe bed. I'll have to cut the blanket to fit. I got this tip from a youtube a guy in Florida did. I'm will using the wipe-on poly on the chisels--so far no rust.

[Stan Smith]

Okay, I'm finally there. As a poster noted above, the wax may have stuff trapped underneath? Not sure about that, but I've gone back and used the 300 grit scrubbers with my Dremel. Then I immediately apply a liberal coat of wipe-on poly and allow it to dry overnight. So far, there has been no rust returning. I'm doing about 5-7 chisels at a time. A previous poster said the wipe-on poly lasts about 6 months. I guess that depends on how much use the chisels get also. My Harrison Specialties carbide chisels' are the least affected. I think the shafts on them are coated with a material resistant to rust. I have seen variations of the tool finish between manufacturers also. I think all are HSS except the carbide cutting tools. Some of my Easy Wood tools' shafts are non-magnetic. I was going to re-use my magnetic strip tool holders, but bought new ones instead since the strips had very bad rust.

Needless to say, this has been a very arduous task. I thank all who posted with their valuable suggestions. Had I known about the wipe-on poly when I started cleaning, I could have saved many hours. Live and learn my friends and be thankful for your many blessings - and this forum in particular.

[Robert Engel]

Stan,

Storing your hand tools is the key.

A couple things that have worked for me

1. Rust inhibitive drawer liners. I do think they actually help.
2. Sealed cabinet or plastic bin with a moisture absorber. Camphor cubes also work as well as a product sold by Lee Valley (I believe).
3. Humidity rods. I've used these before but they seem to be nothing more than little heater. I didnt' think they worked too well.

Until I was able to move all my hand tools into a climate controlled room, it was a constant issue. Ultimately, what worked best for me was a sealed cabinet lined with the liners as well as a tub of Damp Rid. The hygrometer never got below 60% RH. I would always find a little spot of rust somewhere everytime I pulled a tool out.

I used the rubber abrasive erasers, applied a little rust remover and coated with Boeshield before I put them up.

[Günter VögelBerg]

I just keep an oily rag by my tool chest and occasionally give things a wipe. But I live in a drier climate.