Help selecting a router table

[glenn bradley]

You guys are killing me. Just when I thought I was out.... you pull me right back in.

It may seem frustrating but, there is value in this. You have woodworkers who only use a router for edge treatments, woodworkers that use their router table as a joinery machine and everything in between. The value comes in that the statements are correct for the person making them and can contribute to what you finally decide on.

If I am just putting a bull nose edge on stair treads, a router bolted to a piece of ply and a strip of wood clamped on for a fence will do just fine. If you are into double dovetails with contrasting woods, an indexing fence system will be more capable.

Some folks think the router and router table can do everything including prepare a dinner salad. There are book for the tablesaw like this as well. You need to consider what you will be using your router table for and adjust from there.

I use the router table for edge treatments, mortises, dados, stopped grooves, keyhole slots, sliding dovetails, coping, panel raising and much more. I do not use it as a dovetail machine and although I have a basic Incra indexing system that I thought I would use it has never made it out of the box. Maybe some day.

Maybe I can add a short list of my gotta haves that led me to my current setup:
- Flat, well supported table that extends past the cabinet sides to allow clamping
- Split face fence with t-slots that can accept large diameter bits
- Lift
- Miter slot
- Good dust collection

Things I found I preferred but, could work around:
- A wide variety of throat insert opening sizes to control support area and air flow
- Variable speed on the motor
- A motor switch I can bump-to-stop with my hip
- T-track on the top of the fence

I think if you make a list of your "gotta haves" and "nice to haves" and start percolating over that you will find your way. Enjoy the ride.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I had a Freud FT1702VCEK - real piece of junk.
Seized up on me after less than 5 hours use.
Paid $149.00 for it with a free plunge base - that I never got a chance to use.

While the above table adjustments were nice, I'd never recommend anyone use on in a router table.
The hole arrangement is unique to that model & once you drill the plate for the router, you can kiss that plate goodbye when the router dies.

I sold my dead one to some guy for $10 - including the $59 router plate, the wrenches it came with, the plunge base & the 1/4" collet.
Good riddance...

Also - before paying out good money for a lift - which the Freud really doesn't require because of the above table features - make double/extra/triple sure the lift can take the 1700.

IMHO - you'd probably be ahead just using it as a handheld & getting a 3.5 HP , like a Milwaukee 3635 (which is what I replaced my dead Freud with) and set up your table for that.

I don't believe the lifts that take the 3 plus HP routers will handle the smaller Freud 1700.

As I mentioned above, I went with the big Milwaukee, a Woodpecker's plate (expensive,,,yeah,,,but,,oh so nice!), Woodpecker insert rings - plus, I ordered the ready made jig to custom fit the plate to the table & a 1/2 inch bearing bit to use with the jig.

I really wouldn't concern myself that much with the first table you make. Figure on using the table for a while, then after you discover what it lacks, make one more suited to what you want to do.

[Michael Costa]

Frederick.... I am in the market for chisels, I'll keep my mouth shut. Lol

If some who missed it, I mentioned that it came with a plate. If the plate doesn't fit the table, the table can be returned or I can another router and keep the Freud around for table top use. To be honest, I really feel like making a slab table and use the router to flatten said slab. This doesn't require a table of any kind.

I'm just re doing my garage shop and getting all the must haves and wants. I had an electrician here today who installed six, 8' LED light fixtures in the ceiling, added 3 dedicated 20 amp circuits (one of which was for the AC I stuffed into my garage wall, another for dust collection and my lathe, and the 3rd in the ceiling for my air filtration and extension cord reel). The new owners will love it! Lol

Thanks for all the input guys.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Yeah - I missed that it came with a plate..

[Robert Galey]

I'm in the build your own camp. To me, a sturdy, flat table is very important. Without a flat table I don't think you'll be happy with the results. I learned the hard way. I bought a not-inexpensive Rockler router table. It sagged. Besides poor results with work pieces, I spent a lot of time flattening the table with angle iron and shims. Works well now, but I built my own. If you live near Houston, I'll be glad to make you a deal on a slightly used, flat, Rockler router table.
Tablesaw Extension Router Table, 22 Sep 18.jpg