Sound dampening options for a compressor

[Keith Downing]

I have a 60 gallon Ingersoll Rand plumbed in for shop use and air for the lasers. It works well enough for our needs, but the noise has gotten brutal to deal with now that we're running the machines every day. Unfortunately, there isn't really a way for me to fully enclose the compressor or move it outside the shop. But I would like to try to minimize the noise in some way.

The ideas I had were to partially enclose it; either with removable plywood panels on 3 sides covered in sound dampening foam, or by hanging mass loaded vinyl from the ceiling around it like a curtain. Will either of those options work well enough to be worth the effort? I don't need complete silence, and that obviously isn't achievable, but it'd be really nice if we didn't have to wear ear protection while working 10+ feet away.

I also worry about heat buildup enclosing the compressor too much. We've already had a 3/4" air hose that runs from the compressor to the pipe fail after about 18 months in use. I guess that's not an obscenely short life, but it scared the crap out of us when it blew and did enough minor damage that it's always on my mind now.

Any ways, any input or advice would be appreciated.

[Wayne Lomman]

Partial enclosing with acoustic foam lining will help. It's what you will find is used for trailer mounted diesel compressors. It helps but is unlikely to be enough to let you put away the hearing protection.

The hose blow out is more serious. That should never blow. The incorrect hose was used. Buy a better grade one without delay and fit it.

If your compressor is a piston job, they are just noisy. Get a rotary screw or hydro vane when the budget allows. They will be cheaper to run as well. Cheers

[Darcy Warner]

My big Quincy isnt much louder than my small portable makita. Big pump, low speed.

[Keith Downing]

Partial enclosing with acoustic foam lining will help. It's what you will find is used for trailer mounted diesel compressors. It helps but is unlikely to be enough to let you put away the hearing protection.

The hose blow out is more serious. That should never blow. The incorrect hose was used. Buy a better grade one without delay and fit it.

If your compressor is a piston job, they are just noisy. Get a rotary screw or hydro vane when the budget allows. They will be cheaper to run as well. Cheers

This was the hose that failed. I assumed they have a finite life, or that it just got too warm. But it's a 3/4" ID hose rated at 250 psi; and our compressor maxes at 130 psi. So I was surprised as that should have left a lot of margin. I went up to the full rubber hose rated at 300 psi for the replacement.

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[Matt Mattingley]

Intake is always a culprit for noise. If you’re in a dry area, it’s always best to take the intake from the outside of the building. Dampening the intake whether inside or out, through a 2 inch rubber hose always kills a lot of the piston noise.

I built small and large sound rooms only using roxal insulation for air compressors . In most situations it is breathable, almost like a filter for the room.

If you have the space, before considering mass density vinyl, Roxal has Great breathing, no mould, Easy replacement of bats and a pretty good fire resistance.

[Wayne Lomman]

Good choice for the replacement. The plastic sheathed hose that failed was not the best. What cfm is your compressor? You may benefit from a larger ID hose. Hose has higher friction losses than pipe so it's best to go to at least 1" if your pipe work is 3/4. I always use 4" bull hose onto 3" pipework, 2" onto 1 1/2" etc. Keeps the heat down too. Your comment about heat reminded me of this. Cheers

[Keith Downing]

Good choice for the replacement. The plastic sheathed hose that failed was not the best. What cfm is your compressor? You may benefit from a larger ID hose. Hose has higher friction losses than pipe so it's best to go to at least 1" if your pipe work is 3/4. I always use 4" bull hose onto 3" pipework, 2" onto 1 1/2" etc. Keeps the heat down too. Your comment about heat reminded me of this. Cheers

CFM
10.3

CFM Rated @
90 PSI

[glenn bradley]

I made a three sided surround for my noisy compressor. Super simple structure with particle board panels and "egg crate" foam glued to the inner surfaces. You need to assure good airflow to avoid heat build up. I added a "top" that was a panel with foam facing toward the machine but, mounted 5" above the three panel enclosure. Essentially, the panel just hold the foam between the noise source and the shop. Far from silent but, reduced the noise by half.

[sean meltvedt]

2928A7A4-5CAB-452D-B939-CF06EC34CCDA.jpgThis won’t address the noise, but may help your hose last longer. It’s a transmission oil cooler installed between the pump and the tank. It gets hot enough at the intake to melt the plastic and blister the paint, but cool enough at the outlet to run through a polycarbonate water trap. This worked wonders for eliminating condensation while spraying.

[Warren Lake]

Sean

explain that to me. It looks like the Tru Cool 28,000 lbs model trans cooler on my buick when I had the trans rebuilt. Are you telling me you run your air through that and it looks like two of them there. I just run flexible air hose and dont have water issues. Sure some places are worse than others depending on your temps and humidity. IF you are running your air through that then what pressure can it take I run my compressor over rater pressure and have over 30 years not good for it however.

For noise id start with mechanical isolation to the floor. I got panels for a shop once that had been used in sound isolation and they were maybe five feet tall and put around a compressor and behind it close the concrete wall. Never did the same for me but should

[Matt Mattingley]

Warren, what Sean has done is a very acceptable room temperature chiller. If the pipes are made of copper with a decent wall thickness they will hold over 400 psi. The fly will of the piston is using ambient air for the chiller. It does look like he has a water separator after the chiller. It’s hard to tell, but if this is a float water separator it is a pretty good system!

[sean meltvedt]

Warren, Matt has a keen eye. It is indeed copper and rated for 300 psi. It is in the cooling air being drawn across the pump from the fan built into the flywheel. The water separator is a float type, and a bit unsettling when it releases water when your not expecting it, but it is only warm to the touch at an ambient shop temp of 65 deg. I have a downstream adsorbant water separator on the line going to the spray booth. Before I put this cooler on, I would have to change the adsorbant about every 4-8 hours of spray time depending on the humidity. Now I have not changed it and have approx 25-30 hours on it.

[Warren Lake]

thanks Sean I will ask the trans cooler company specific what type of pressure theirs can work with.

ive just used sharp water drains and get very little water if ever, I likely dont have much water as im using regular air line its doesnt cause condensation the same way metal stuff does. Have a dessicant that has only been used once or twice an likely didnt need it then

Out of curiosity the absorbant you are talking about is that the old style toilet paper in the plastic housing thing. They had that in an autobody shop I frequented years back. Dont sqeeze the Charmin.

[sean meltvedt]

Warren, this is the animal I have installed, it used a crystalline silica cartridge for the adsorbant “DeVilbiss 130525 QC3 Air Filter and Dryer”.

[Wayne Lomman]

Your 3/4 hose will be fine. Cheers