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Thread: Toy Box Design

  1. #16
    Thank you all again for the suggestions. I think I have it narrowed down. I am using my own version based off some ideas in Bill Hylton's book "Illustrated Cabinet Making." Here is to hoping it turns out the way I want....


  2. #17
    Iím knee deep in my ďhope chest / toy box design,Ē but had a question in regards to the legs.

    I doing my own design after looking at numerous photos and books, but really love these legs from an old magazine. I have 3x3 white oak blanks arriving to my house tomorrow and canít grasp the concept on how to cut this design. If I only cut a (2) taper then the sides wouldnít be tapered how I want correct?

    Can anyone explain the legs in these photos and tell me how I would taper these? I have a jig and table saw that Iíll
    be using.




  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Pueblo, CO
    My advise is to cut the joinery first. Then cut the taper with your table saw on the outside faces. Should be fairly straight forward. Were it me, I'd be tempted to lay out the taper after the joinery and work to the layout with a hand plane. Much less stressful.

  4. #19
    Is that a taper or a gentle curve? Looks like a curve and I think a curve would look better. If so, as Dan said cut joinery first then curves. Tape the cut off piece back on if necessary to keep the piece stable.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Kansas City
    If it is a curved taper, I find a curved spokeshave to be worth using. Cut close to the line with table saw or band saw, then plane with spokeshave to the line.

  6. #21
    I think a bandsaw or jigsaw followed by a spokeshave or spindle sander would be preferred given it is curved surface, safely cutting a concave curve on a table saw would be difficult.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Good time to practice your hand cut dovetails. And making beads.

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