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Thread: Smoothing cherry

  1. Quote Originally Posted by Tony Zaffuto View Post
    A scraper that does not get much love, but is extremely effective, is a Stanley 82 or even the 83.
    I don't get why the blue Stanley scraper I posted earlier is so unknown with woodworkers. I literally don't know of any other furniture maker who uses it on wood (it's actually meant to be used as a glass scraper). My father introduced me to it when I was 14 or 15 years old and I've been using it ever since. It's also a wonderful tool for removing glue squeeze out in corners without damaging the sides.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jessica de Boer View Post
    I don't get why the blue Stanley scraper I posted earlier is so unknown with woodworkers. I literally don't know of any other furniture maker who uses it on wood (it's actually meant to be used as a glass scraper). My father introduced me to it when I was 14 or 15 years old and I've been using it ever since. It's also a wonderful tool for removing glue squeeze out in corners without damaging the sides.
    I have one that is unmarked, black plastic, and it works well on glue, glass, etc., however a minor issue I have with it, is the blade is square across and can dig in at its corners with a bit of inattention. The Stanleys I mentioned, you can removed the blade and sharpen the scraper blade with a radius. But the downside is the radius negates its use for glue squeeze outs in corners!
    If the thunder don't get you, the lightning will.

  3. #33
    Sharp hand plane, pick the size that works for you and do it! #3 to #7 would get the job done in my shop, just gotta be sharp!

  4. #34
    Dont' use a paint scraper it will leave track marks.

  5. I had an old 30mm Stanley chisel lying around so I removed the bevel and ground a square edge on it. The blunt chisel technique is definitely a keeper.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jessica de Boer View Post
    I had an old 30mm Stanley chisel lying around so I removed the bevel and ground a square edge on it. The blunt chisel technique is definitely a keeper.
    I have three glued up panels that came out of clamps late today (quartersawn white oak). As usually happens, joints always need a bit of work. What I tried, and what worked superbly and quickly, was a 1-1/4" wide long paring chisel. I did not grind off the bevel, but holding the chisel nearly vertical, pulled it towards me.

    I think there are many ways to skin this cat!
    If the thunder don't get you, the lightning will.

  7. #37
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    IMG_5579 (640x480).jpg
    May give this a tryout, next time around..
    patent date.jpg
    Yep, even has a patent date...sharpening?
    test drive.jpg
    Is still a work in progress....

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by steven c newman View Post
    IMG_5579 (640x480).jpg
    May give this a tryout, next time around..
    patent date.jpg
    Yep, even has a patent date...sharpening?
    test drive.jpg
    Is still a work in progress....
    Stanley scraper that I mentioned earlier in this thread. Works well, prepare the blade as you would a card scraper.
    If the thunder don't get you, the lightning will.

  9. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Engel View Post
    Dont' use a paint scraper it will leave track marks.
    Not if you put a slight camber on the blade. I should know, I've been using the blue Stanley scraper since I was 15 years old.

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