Smoothing cherry

[Terry Beadle]

I have a high angle LN that can have the blade reversed and super sharpened with a slightly higher bevel angle. But that's more work than needs to be done.
I recommend you spend some time learning how to set a coarse burr vs lite burr on a couple of card scrapers.
They will do the job with the minimum of fuss and good control.

Card scrapers come in different thicknesses. I recommend the thinner ones. They are easier to sharpen and use. They bend more easily too.

Just my opinion.

Good luck and happy shavings!

PS
Wood River planes are a very good bargain. Look in on reviews of these planes by masters.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qpAjM01kq_s
Rob Cosman - noted educator and wood wizard! Hoot!

[Jessica de Boer]

This is the side view. When you hold it at a 45 degree angle it's more like a very fine cutting action instead of scraping. It's perfect to smooth out small troublesome spots and the replacement blades are cheap enough.



To clarify what I mean with holding it at a 45 degree angle:

[Jim Koepke]

The best way to determine grain direction for flat sawn boards like this is to look at the face surface and the end grain.

Learned from a few different sources, my rule of thumb is if the end grain is a smile the points of the cathedrals point in the direction in which to plane. If the end grain is a frown, then go against the way the cathedrals point.

Shortened to go with the smiles and down with frowns.

jtk

[Clint Baxter]

The best way to determine grain direction for flat sawn boards like this is to look at the face surface and the end grain. The two lower boards in this example would have the grain going the same direction if one has the bark side showing and the other has the pith side showing. If both have the bark side showing, they would be in opposite directions.

An easy way to remember is, pith side, (center of tree), go with the points, bark side, go backwards.

Clint

[Derek Cohen]

The easiest scraper to use is this - a section of 3/16' thick O1 plane blade, which I have ground to shape.





Sharpen by grinding a hollow all around, which raises a very small wire ...



It is phenomenal in action ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

[Warren Mickley]

I stopped using the scraper in 1977. The reason I stopped was that the surface I was getting with the double iron plane was superior to that of a scraper. It was also faster.

[Derek Cohen]

the surface I was getting with the double iron plane was superior to that of a scraper.

True Warren. I'd use a double iron plane as first choice, if the situation was permitting. The photo is the inside of a curved drawer front. That is one of the situations that does not favour a handplane, unless one owned a suitable double iron compass plane. Then this scraper excels. Then again, thank goodness there are many ways to accomplish the same task. It offers choices. Choices are good.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Tom Bender]

Hi Derek
Everything you do is over the top. Thanks so much for all of your posts, we learn a lot and take inspiration from them.

You 'ground that scraper from O1 steel' not something I am equipped for. If it could be bought .....

And what is that grinding wheel you show?

[Derek Cohen]

Tom

The idea is not original. It was first mentioned to me about 10 years ago by Philip Marcou (Marcou Planes), who used thick scrapers make from D2 steel. In recent years, Stewmac sell them for use by luthiers.

To make the one I have, simply find a piece of hardened steel - I cut of the rear of an O1 plane blade (using a Dremel) - and hollow grind it square on.

The grinder I use is a 8" half-speed with a 180 grit CBN wheel. I began writing about these wheels a few years ago. They were largely unknown outside the world or turners, who have been using them for a few decades. They are a game changer for flat woodworkers as well. Article: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Woodwor...ningSetUp.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jessica de Boer]

You could do the same with a wide chisel and then you have a handle to hold.

[Derek Cohen]

Jessica, it is indeed possible to scrape with a chisel. But why destroy a good edge?

Actually, the chisel does not scrape as well as the thick scraper. The scraper has a fine wire edge, which is created in the hollow grind. This creates a tool that will take a significant shaving, and do so for a lot longer than the fine edge of a chisel. There is also more control when holding the blade down low. The chisel handle is too high for control.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jessica de Boer]

I actually meant remove the bevel and grind a square edge on it like you did with the plane iron. Now that I think of it, you should be able to use it as a push scraper. I'm going to try this.

[Derek Cohen]

Bill Carter, the English plane maker, is credited with using a chisel as a push scraper. I have one that I converted for that purpose. It's a good tool for plane beds, but it is not going to replace a thicker cabinet (card) scraper.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jessica de Boer]

This is exactly what I meant and how I thought it will scrape: https://youtu.be/re_bp5Lp0To?t=2m7s
It doesn't surprise me someone already thought of it.

[Tony Zaffuto]

My now deceased father showed me 3 or 4 decades ago how to grind a used up mill file in much the same way as Derek's, the Stew Mac (which I have) and Jessica's suggestion for removing the bevel of a chisel. A scraper that does not get much love, but is extremely effective, is a Stanley 82 or even the 83. Another is what Lee Valley refers to as their chair scraper. These latter mentioned scrapers are quite capable of fine work, if you take your time with edge prep.