I must be nuts? Another miter box.....

[Mike Brady]

I doubt if you will wear any of those out.

[Derek Cohen]

Would appreciate any advice about what miter box make/model I need for for saw with 28" long saw plate x 5" under back width ?
Thanks , Mike

Hi Mike

A Stanley #246 or #358 will work with a 5" depth. I prefer the design of those made by Millers Falls, and several years ago sold my #246 for a MF 74C. This model requires a saw with a depth of 5" and above. With a smaller saw, you can add a board to the floor of the mitre box, but better to get a 74B.

This is the #74C I restored ...



For others, I have a MF #115, which is about half the size of the #74. I needed to restore the box and build a saw ...



Before I managed to find the #115, I built a small mitrebox ...





Regards from Perth

Derek

[steven c newman]

Simple note about the mitre box numbers for Stanleys....I had the #358 Mitre box until I picked up a Langdon ACME No. 75

The 3 stands for the frame size....the 5 stands for how much saw plate under the spine is needed...5"......the 8 stands for the length of the saw plate....28" long. The main difference between a No. 74, and the No. 75 is in the length of the saw plate it came with....the 74s used a 28" long plate, the 75s used the longer 30" plate...

The guides on the langdons have a space for the teeth of the saw to go through....a 4" saw will NOT fit in the 74 or 75. No room for the teeth to go through.

I also have a Stanley #2246 mitre box.....it usually takes a 26" long by 4" under the spine saw. A 24" saw will work, as long as it is ~4" under the spine.

[Tom M King]

If anyone needs a saw for one, I have one I bought to use in the L-A that doesn't fit. I've had it so long, that I don't remember what size it is, or even who made it. If I'm remembering correctly, it's a little too small to work in the 74. It does have a nice handle. I can check, if anyone needs it.

[Mike Allen1010]

Thanks a lot Steven and Derek for the info about him a model/type of miter box I need – I super appreciate your help!


I just barely managed to understand the Stanley hand plane naming scheme and thought I had it all figured out – that is until I entered the world of miter boxes!


You guys are the best, Mike

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Mike

The reason for adding the pictures of the smaller mitre boxes was for the thread. However, I meant to write earlier that I rarely use the large mitre box (I called it a #74 but I think it is a #75). The small #115 is the one that gets pulled out 99% of the time, and I resorted to building one this size before I could find one to purchase. Different strokes .... but consider the large boxes are not as suited for fine furniture work.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[steven c newman]

Yep...different strokes..as I use my 75 and the 2246 a lot.....to the point I don't need to shoot any cuts. As long as the saw and the box are tuned up right, and the saw is sharp....amazing things can happen.

I used adifferent Mitre box today...Brand name is...GEM. when I was done with it, I merely folded it back up, and stowed it back in a drawer. I could use either a Disston D-112 or a 14" long Disston No. 4 Needed to cut a few parts for the drawer runner frames....
unfolded mitrebox.jpgart work.jpgbacksaw.jpgfolded mitre box.jpg
Use this to go to a jobsite....had to trim out a doorway...I screwed it to a sawbench...and made a few cuts. Can adjust the guides to fit the saw's plate.
YMMV

[Mike Allen1010]

Thanks guys – I totally get that a smaller miter box is more practical, usable for furniture making. The thing is, I have this 28 inch long by 5 inch wide miter box saw, with no miter box to use it in… Clearly this is a "vacuum" in the workshop tool universe that must be filled!


Cheers, Mike

[Derek Cohen]

Mike, there is a solution!

Instead of using the saw in a mitre box, use it with a fence to saw dados and sliding dovetails ...



One side is square/vertical, and the other is angled (magnets imbedded in the sides for the saw) ...




Regards from Perth

Derek

[steven c newman]

Once these saws get over a certain size...they actually NEED the guides in the mitre box. Otherwise, too much flex can happen in the cut. As long as the board can fit between the guides, this awkward cut can be done much better in the mitre box....Merely add a wedge of the needed angle under the board. Most of the better ( and bigger) boxes have depth stops. I use mine when cutting shoulders for tenons..you can also set a stop block, or use the one that came with the box, to make repeat cuts. ( my Stanley #2246 has a stop I can set, The Langdon No. 75, I have to clamp a stop block to the fence) Most boxes also have a stock holder to keep the board from moving, and a sharply pointed bolt that comes through the fence, to keep things from sliding. Once the backsaws get over 5" under the spine, and over 26" in length..smart money is to get the box that goes with these larger saws....Disston made a 6" x 30" saw....for the Stanley No. 360 Miter Box.