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Thread: Small Tormek rest

  1. #1
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    Small Tormek rest

    Does anyone use the small Tormek rest? I've had this one for years but I can't find it on the Tormek web site now.

    It is smaller than the standard SVD-110 and has a thin sheet of some type of low-friction material bonded to the flat surface. It's perfect for sharpening smaller tools, especially small skews and scrapers with curved cutting edges. It's also what I use for small curved hand scrapers that need to be turned continuously - the friction on other rests makes that more difficult.

    The small one and the larger SDV-110, mounted on the Tormek support at the bench grinder with a 600 grit CBN wheel:
    tormek_rest_A.jpg tormek_rest_B.jpg

    Both together on the bar for comparison. (not useful for sharpening!)

    tormek_rest_AB.jpg

    In another thread on negative rake scrapers ( I mentioned this smaller, but when I went searching for it online I can't find it for sale or a picture of it. Could it have come with another attachment?
    I did buy it a long time ago (14-15 years?)

    JKJ

  2. #2
    The small one is part of the scissors jig. You ought to have the rest of it that holds the blades and slides on the rest.
    Bill

  3. #3

    Scissors jig

    Here is a picture showing both parts of my scissors jig.

    image.jpeg
    Bill

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Boehme View Post
    Here is a picture showing both parts of my scissors jig.
    That makes sense, thanks. I'll bet I find the clamps in the scissors jig box.

    I find it far more useful as a rest than a scissor sharpener.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by John K Jordan View Post
    ... I find it far more useful as a rest than a scissor sharpener.
    I think that I used mine once about a dozen years ago. Usually the scissors hinge wears out before the edge gets dull.
    Bill

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Boehme View Post
    I think that I used mine once about a dozen years ago. Usually the scissors hinge wears out before the edge gets dull.
    I looked through my Tormek drawer (I think I bought every jig they made) and found the scissors jig. You are correct, the "small rest" is part of the jig, called the "support plate".

    I was about to say this was so handy as a small low-friction tool rest they Tormek ought to sell it separately. Then I saw where it's available as a spare part for $29:
    https://advanced-machinery.myshopify...-support-plate

    I did try the scissors jig just now on some heavy-duty Fiskars's (the kind that comes with a sheath) not touching it since I bought it. It worked well, sharpened with the 1200 grit CBN.

    JKJ
    Last edited by John K Jordan; 09-10-2018 at 10:27 AM. Reason: correct bad typing

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by John K Jordan View Post
    I looked through my Tormek drawer (I think I bought every jig they made) and found the scissors jig. You are correct, the "small rest" is part of the jig, called the "support plate".

    I was about to say this was so handy as a small low-friction tool rest they Tormek ought to sell it separately. Then I saw where it's available as a spare part for $29:
    https://advanced-machinery.myshopify...-support-plate

    I did try the scissors jig just now on some heavy-duty Fiskars's (the kind that comes with a safter not touching it since I bought it. It worked well, sharpened with the 1200 grit CBN.

    JKJ
    That's funny because I also sharpened a pair of Fiskars kitchen scissors today ... They're the ones with a curved cutting edge and can be easily taken apart for cleaning. They had been too loose at the hinge to cut anything other than a sheet of paper. Fortunately, I was able to snug them up enough to make them like new. I used my 1000 grit CBN wheel running dry. My complaint about using the CBN wheel dry is that metal dust scratched up the plastic on the support plate and also got all over the piece that clamps the scissors.

    BTW, Tormek recommends only using the coarse grit on scissors. So maybe next time I might do it right, but as we all know, real men don't need no stinking instructions.

    I prefer to use my CBN wheel wet with a water/Honerite Gold bath to take care of the metal dust. I was a skeptic about Honerite for quite a while, but I finally tried it and I believe that it really does work better than plain water. With a plain water bath the filings will rust in about a day. With the Honerite Gold solution there was no rusting even after about three days. I don't leave the CBN wheel immersed in the solution because I don't want to discover how long I could let it soak before bad things happen. When I'm through turning for the day I remove the CBN wheel, rinse it, and pat it dry with a shop towel.

    I have a second jug for my used Honerite Gold solution and when gets full I plan to filter out the sediments get at least a second use out of it ... maybe even a third use. Being phrugal is an acceptable practice according to the man code.
    Last edited by Bill Boehme; 09-09-2018 at 11:14 PM.
    Bill

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Boehme View Post
    ...CBN wheel wet with a water/Honerite Gold bath...
    I have some of He Honerite but haven't used it yet. It appears to be similar to the water-based lube/coolant concentrate I get by the gallon to use with the recirculating bath in my horizontal metal-cutting bandsaw. Until I got some experience with it I also had trouble believing I could mix something with water and it wouldn't cause rust on steel.

    This stuff is expensive but works very well, both on diamond/CBN lapping plates/hones and CBN wheels: Trend diamond lapping fluid https://www.amazon.com/Trend-DWS-LF-.../dp/B003871APG
    I dribble a little on the Tormek wheel before sharpening and spread it evenly over the wheel with my finger (no bath). I even use it on a 600 grit wheel on the bench grinder, applied more sparingly.

    One thing I found about using the Tormek dry from the front (with any steel tool) with the wheel turning away from the edge: tools get magnetized in the earth's field even if not used near magnet, and especially if vibrated in use like lathe tools. Grinding "away" from a magnetized edge can leave an annoying attached trail of black steel dust that obscures the edge. I keep an old bulk recording tape demagetizer next to the sharpening station to take care of this.

    Looks like my bad typing messed up what I wrote earlier. Somehow I typed "safter" instead of "sheath)".

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