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Thread: Value of 12" Oliver 166BD

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Moscow, Idaho
    Posts
    293
    Anybody have any thoughts about what size VFD I'd need to run this? I'm inexperienced with them...what's more important - HP rating or Amps? I guess I'm getting confused because I'm reading about increasing the HP capacity of the VFD 1/3 above actual 3PH motor HP, but then lots of folks saying that with a jointer, the load isn't necessarily high enough to make a difference. Big price difference between a 7.5 hp and 5 hp VFD....
    If it's a VFD with single-phase input, then a 5hp VFD should work fine. If it's designed for 3-phase input then it has to be derated. Jack Forsberg in Canada seems to be a good place to buy a VFD of this size, and he could help you be sure you're getting what you need.
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 09-12-2018 at 2:35 PM. Reason: fixed quote tagging

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    6,527
    I just enabled a friend to buy an American Sawmill 12" jointer I found on CL, but his friend's wife was all for it, especially at $550.

    Your Oliver is a cool old jointer, worthy for sure. Some folk prefer a 3 toe design since the floor doesn't have to be as level - heavy cast iron jointers can twist on an uneven floor. So make sure you've got a good flat spot for it.

    Jack Forsberg (on here) can hook you up with a VFD, but if you edjumacate yourself you can find one that will work online.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Central WI
    Posts
    5,666
    The twist on a 12" Oliver isn't nearly the issue as on the 20-36" ones. Get the bases close to level and once adjusted you will be fine. You can drop anything you can lift on those jointers and not move the tables. Dave

  4. #19
    Thanks for the suggestion. I talked with Jack today on the phone and got some good info and will buy a VFD from him once I have the machine. His price seems very reasonable and the "tech support" will be worth what I pay for it in this case, I think.


    This jointer will sit on a basement slab that's not necessarily totally flat, level or super smooth. A bit of a rough finish in places, old house...I'll measure the foot print of the base before I move it in and if I need to build up the floor a little bit with some thinset or something like it, then I think that'll be good enough...hopefully

  5. #20
    Use machine levelers in the four holes in the bases and grout it in place, at least that's how they would do a permanent set up of a machine.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Princeton, NJ
    Posts
    7,235
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    Phillip, I can say from experience that it is a whole lot easier to ask forgiveness than permission.

    My wife gets nervous anytime I mention that I’ll be receiving a delivery. So I don’t normally mention it

  7. #22
    Haha! I’m happy to report that the dream lives on and she came around to the old Oliver.

    On to the next challenge, moving it!

    There will be a forklift available for loading. Any issue with slinging it around the middle (underneath the frame, between each end/feet in a basket hitch or something similar just to get it in and out of the truck?

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    So Cal
    Posts
    3,730
    That’s how I moved mine. Once I got it out of the trailer I rolled it in the shop on furniture dollies.
    To Lift it off the dollies I use a floor jack and blocks.
    Good luck
    Aj

  9. #24
    Picked up the jointer this evening. Loaded and rode like a champ.

    Here’s some pics. Paid $1250. This machine was running in their shop until it was replaced by a new 15” powermatic with shelix head and cutterhead brake.

    There’s an oil pot on the front of the machine and a grease fitting ? On the back near the motor. Oil pot on the front looks a little low and crusty. What kind of lube is best to use here?

    The machine was hard wired to a shut off box and the switch apparently didn’t make it with the machine when they removed it from the building...any advice here? I will be buying a VFD from Jack Forsberg and will ask him as well.

    What do you guys think?

    D22082EE-ABE8-4F1F-BAAC-40640C730C10.jpgA6CCA1BA-A7F6-4AF5-AA51-FAC5DBB669B8.jpg3109AA05-F6E7-412D-BB74-BDEFCCE14993.jpg59D20134-27B5-4918-8987-46883898386E.jpg17A9B1E3-243B-4600-9A0E-3FC74B206A42.jpg

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Central WI
    Posts
    5,666
    Both bearings were originally oil bath. It looks like the motor bearing has been converted to grease. Mobil DTE Heavy/ Medium is the recommendation. If you can keep the open oil bath bearing system, go for it. A swap to sealed is a downgrade. Remove the cup and pipe and drain the oil from the bearing and replace. The grease bearing probably has been overfilled and a gob is sitting inside the motor. If you aren't going to take apart and look, run the machine and listen with a screwdriver on the bearing housing and feel for heat. Too much oil or grease will heat bearings. The original oil cup was glass and is set to a correct height so filling the cup halfway up the glass also fills the bearing cavity to the correct level- usually about 1/3 of the bearing. Good luck, Dave

  11. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Phillip Mitchell View Post
    This machine was running in their shop until it was replaced by a new 15” powermatic with shelix head and cutterhead brake.
    Oh it hurts. I don't understand some people's logic

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Central WI
    Posts
    5,666
    Quote Originally Posted by Martin Wasner View Post
    Oh it hurts. I don't understand some people's logic
    If you don't know how to set up a machine, a shelix is more forgiving. Another skill lost. Dave

  13. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by David Kumm View Post
    Both bearings were originally oil bath. It looks like the motor bearing has been converted to grease. Mobil DTE Heavy/ Medium is the recommendation. If you can keep the open oil bath bearing system, go for it. A swap to sealed is a downgrade. Remove the cup and pipe and drain the oil from the bearing and replace. The grease bearing probably has been overfilled and a gob is sitting inside the motor. If you aren't going to take apart and look, run the machine and listen with a screwdriver on the bearing housing and feel for heat. Too much oil or grease will heat bearings. The original oil cup was glass and is set to a correct height so filling the cup halfway up the glass also fills the bearing cavity to the correct level- usually about 1/3 of the bearing. Good luck, Dave
    Never seen a glass on an Oliver jointer. Everyone had a gits oil cup and were filled so you could just see oil in the bottom.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    So Cal
    Posts
    3,730
    Is that a Insert Head I don’t see any gibs? I run my machine on a Rpc so I have a magnetic starter where your wires end.
    I think with a vfd you don’t use one.
    The condition of that old girl looks to be excellent. I think you did good
    Aj

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Central WI
    Posts
    5,666
    Darcy, I think you are correct. I'm remembering which is dangerous and I believe the Porter was glass and the Oliver was a brass cup. Dave

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