Value of 12" Oliver 166BD

[Matt Mattingley]

I would run that machine at 70 or 75hz, with that head. Be amazed what another 500 to 900 rpm will do

Philip, Darcy is pretty much dead on with this. Your head is 4.92”dia. It says right on the head maximum speed 6000 RPM. But The point of concern of over speeding this motor is whether or not the bearings in the motor are rated for this speed and the bearings in the head are rated for this speed. I could comfortably suggest 66-70hz which would be about 400 to 600 RPM more.

As for the electrical ground it is best to add a 4 to 6 inch ground wire to the ground terminal in the VFD. Attach this wire to the ground of your household single phase. Attaching another ground wire and run it through the conduit to the motor and attach to a screw in the motor pecker head. Wire nut at the VFD like a pigtail. This picks up a potential dead short at the earliest applicable point. Every transition box should have a jumper ground as well. There’s nothing wrong with having one too many grounds then one too little.

[David Kumm]

I've not had my bearings out but I believe they may be 6308 and 6313. Oliver used standard bearings - usually - so it is the 6313 that would be at issue if running grease. If I were running it fast I'd test it for 15 minutes at 66 hz and feel the bearings for heat. I've never had trouble running old motors on a vfd but when running over 60 hz you are starving them of voltage so they tend to warm up and the speed limit on a 6313 open greaed bearing is in the 4800 rpm range. If I were running it at 65-70 hz I'd want phenolic cage precision bearings but I'm fussy about bearings. Dave

[Matt Mattingley]

This is why I put a standard together for my shop.
All
Motor bearings are getting LGLT-2 (expensive and not always needed)
Bronze bushings are all getting AW 32
Gears are getting Lucas X-TRA #2 and or Quaker State golden chassis grease
Ways are getting way lube
Dusty gears are getting graphite spray and sometimes if serviceable fluid film
Almost anything else which is bare metal gets a fluid film
Bare serviceable metal- like table tops that should be dry johnson’s paste wax
Wet tops I use Castrol super edge 4
And last I use cimtap 2
I keep a can of silicone spray for belts and pulleys that are hard to get at. The ones that I can easily get to I just clean with 25-75 Dove dish detergent.
And a lot of Varsol


This is what I’m trying to slim down to. I’m still struggling. I have two machines using SAE 10 W non detergent.

Edit; I keep 3-in-one and WD 40 for convenience lubrications and I do love using my pail of white lithium for outdoor machines. And two different chain lubes wet and sticky for my chainsaws.

[Darcy Warner]

I will have to dig out one of my 166 manuals and see what oliver put in for bearings. Original DD set up machines ran oil bath, but someone probably put regular old bearings in that when they swapped the head.

Its direct drive Matt, only two bearings on this machine.

[Matt Mattingley]

I will have to dig out one of my 166 manuals and see what oliver put in for bearings. Original DD set up machines ran oil bath, but someone probably put regular old bearings in that when they swapped the head.

Its direct drive Matt, only two bearings on this machine.

Can you please explain how there’s only two bearings? There would be two bearings for a motor and two more bearings for the head? Am I mistaken??? Wouldn’t there be 4 bearings in conjunction or not? A direct drive electric motor in my opinion has two bearings. A head would also have two bearings. Am I missing something?

Even if this was a shaft drive, it would require two bearings at the The machine and two more bearings at the shaft drive. The shaft drive can be built as one, but I’m wondering how you would Machine this? I’ve done this and I won’t do it again. How would you machine and align the shaft drive in your expert opinion?
I’m just a machinist. So take everything of what I say as grain of salt.

[Warren Lake]

id take the just out before machinist its amazing what you guys can do. last tool and die maker I went to I wanted a .020 sleeve to go on a half inch router bit, he said do you want slip fit, interference fit or press fit? I almost started laughing but said you can do that? Okay press fit. simple machines he bought new and cared for all his life, properly trained in Europe. Blew me away showing me some of the custom jobs he had done.

Plus one on the Fluid Film, 9 crappy winters on my 26 year old car and not sure what winters before that with no protection coat it well every year. Didnt mess up my rubbers either like some other products do.

[Darcy Warner]

Can you please explain how there’s only two bearings? There would be two bearings for a motor and two more bearings for the head? Am I mistaken??? Wouldn’t there be 4 bearings in conjunction or not? A direct drive electric motor in my opinion has two bearings. A head would also have two bearings. Am I missing something?

Even if this was a shaft drive, it would require two bearings at the The machine and two more bearings at the shaft drive. The shaft drive can be built as one, but I’m wondering how you would Machine this? I’ve done this and I won’t do it again. How would you machine and align the shaft drive in your expert opinion?
I’m just a machinist. So take everything of what I say as grain of salt.

Only two bearings in a direct drive jointer (I have seen a few with a small bearing on the end bell side of motor) one on the operating side, one on the off side right before the motor housing. IMG_20180817_173017_367.jpg

Not the best picture, but one bearing in the front of picture, one on the far side, stator and endbell not mounted yet.

[David Kumm]

Most of the old DD jointers I've seen had two bearings on either end of the head. The rotor kind of floats off the end with no additional bearing support. My Oliver 299 and 399 planers were similar although the 299 had doubled up bearings on one end. Seems weird but since most are still working the design must have been sound. Dave

[Phillip Mitchell]

Ok, thanks fellas. I think I’m clear on the wiring and grounding. But before I fire it up...

Next round of questions from the newb...

Why is Mobil DTE heavy/medium (or any “circulating oil” for that matter) impossible to find locally?? I called every auto parts store in town and the local machine shop and they all gave me blank stares...through the phone.

Do I just need to break down and spend $35-40 (with shipping) for a gallon from online or is there any suitable, easily available substitute for the cutterhead bearing?

Just as a reminder, the cutter head bearing still has the oil cup (front of machine) and the motor has a grease fitting that screws in. I removed it the other day to take a peak and the grease is gray and packed full at the back of the fitting and beyond (towards bearing) from what I can see. I’m unfamiliar with this, is this a problem? If so, how do I clean it and what type of grease do I need to put back in, how do I know how much to apply, etc? I thought I snapped a photo of the grease fitting to share, but I’m not finding it.

I appreciate all the help and dialogue. Doubt I could fumble my way through these unfamiliar waters for the first time without some wiser sailors showing the way. Hopefully this thread will be of some use to the next uninitiated soul that jumps into the old ‘arn waters of Oliver jointers.

[Darcy Warner]

Dick at Deihl, who started at Yates American after HS, who has forgotten more than most will ever know, told me that since he started in the industry, recommended non detergent straight 20w for almost every oil lube bearing you would find on machines of this era.

[David Kumm]

A local machine shop might nave some to sell, or an industrial lube seller ( although 1 gal container might be a problem. ) Some will fill your container. The motor end bearing sounds iffy but if you run the machine and listen and then feel it after a few minutes you will get an idea if more work is needed. Bearings are often overfilled. If you take the fitting off, and run the machine for a minute, some grease might expel and you can see if it looks good or crusty. If you get a sample, you can take to to someone who can set you up with something compatible. For a short run, you could add a little 3 in 1 oil to make sure the front bearing isn't dry. It will be a little light for extended run but will work for testing. Dave

[Andrew Hughes]

Do you have a graingers nearby? That’s were I bought a gallon from if only you were closer i have no need for it. I changed from open to sealed on my 166.

[Phillip Mitchell]

OK, great info to know fellas. Had a chat last night with Matt, which was very helpful as well.