Check --Checking ????

[Norris Randall]

Greetings,
I haven't been doing a lot in the shop lately, but have started back. Years ???????? ago I had tried several procedures to prevent checking. Most did not work for me. Then I tried wrapping in multiple layers of saran wrap. Here's one piece after unwrap and picture of ends and lathe mount. The dark substance when unwrapped flaked off with a little putty knife help. Please suggest the kind of wood, I don't remember and did not label. :-(
IMG_0140.jpgIMG_0141.jpg

[Dean S Walker]

Looks like elm.

[John K Jordan]

Please suggest the kind of wood, I don't remember and did not label. :-(

I suggest reading this for an educated guess: https://www.wood-database.com/wood-a...ication-guide/
Look at section 7 for instructions. At minimum a quick examination can eliminate candidates.

The "still stumped" box is another option.

Every time I've wrapped wet wood in plastic it spalted then got moldy and punky, depending on how wet it was and how it was stored. The trick is to remove during the spalting and before the rot.

[Norris Randall]

John, thank you for the database link. I appreciate your time to reply.

[robert baccus]

Try coating all the cut surfaces with endseal--slows drying but does not promote fungus growth. Maybe 2 coats on the endgrain to prevent splitting.

[John K Jordan]

Try coating all the cut surfaces with endseal--slows drying but does not promote fungus growth. Maybe 2 coats on the endgrain to prevent splitting.

I don't know about "promote fungus growth", but over the years I've had some wet blanks get black with fungus under the wax. But maybe they already had some fungal growth started before waxed (Anchorseal) and I didn't notice, and maybe my storage area was a little too warm. I do know if I seal some wet wood that has obvious spalting it is likely to turn black, mostly on the end grain - I have some spalted white oak blanks that look like ebony now on the ends!

But in general, almost everything I've sealed has dried perfectly with splits only in extreme cases, such as where dogwood heartwood and sap wood met.

[John K Jordan]

John, thank you for the database link. I appreciate your time to reply.

If you are not set up to look at the end grain, I'd be glad to make an attempt to ID if you send a little piece to me by mail. I have several good reference books. If you want me to try, send a PM and I'll give you the address.

[William C Rogers]

I have had good luck at sanding a piece of endgrain around 220 and using my iPhone taking a close picture with full zoom on. I get enough detail to look in the wood data base. Looks like ash to me.

[John K Jordan]

I have had good luck at sanding a piece of endgrain around 220 and using my iPhone taking a close picture with full zoom on. I get enough detail to look in the wood data base. Looks like ash to me.

The end grain tell all! (Or at least, tells something)

ELM:
elm.jpg

WHITE ASH
whiteash.jpg

[robert baccus]

Good point John on the dogwood--every wood and climate is different and must be considered for. Most of my sealed wood is outside in shade and under a tarp--we have crazy weather here in the south. Woods that are Very Hard such as dogwood and fruitwoods ect. are extremely hard to dry slowly enough to prevent checking. I have been able to dry both by applying a single coat of wax followed by another coat of wax and foil on the endgrains stuck to the wax. Even 11" full round dogwoods. I turn mostly log section vase blanks and seldom lose a piece by recognizing that woods are different--a thing often overlooked. Old Forester