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Thread: pros/cons using rustoleum hammerd paint on a wood cabinet

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    Englewood, Florida
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    189

    pros/cons using rustoleum hammerd paint on a wood cabinet

    I am thinking of using rustoleum hammered paint finish on my router cabinet.......3/4 maple plywood. Looking for input. Is this a good choice------I like the look, Should I spray it or brush it.

    What I found on the web suggested rolling or brushing a heavy first coat and then doing a second coat shortly thereafter....no definition for shortly thereafter.

    This is oil based product....should top coat be polyurethene?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    590
    Quote Originally Posted by tom coleman View Post
    I am thinking of using rustoleum hammered paint finish on my router cabinet.......3/4 maple plywood. Looking for input. Is this a good choice------I like the look, Should I spray it or brush it.

    What I found on the web suggested rolling or brushing a heavy first coat and then doing a second coat shortly thereafter....no definition for shortly thereafter.

    This is oil based product....should top coat be polyurethene?

    I used that product on some metal railings for a bar several years back. The look was good, almost looked like a textured plastic after it cured. Has a little bit of a shine to it as well as the texture.

    As per your questions, I'm not sure how much help I can be. But it does go on pretty thick. I applied it with foam brushes and had no problems getting good coverage on the second coat. Waited about 30 minutes between coats if I recall. I'm not sure how it would take finish, or what's recommended.

    Overall I was happy with the look, but it was a high traffic area in a commercial establishment; and eventually some of the paint started coming off in about dime sized chunks.

    Hope that helps.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Tasmania
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    2,162
    It will work OK and look good too.

    Look up the tech data sheet for the product you buy. It will tell you what the manufacturer recommends for how to apply it and how long between coats at given temperatures.

    Hammer finish is generally a stand alone product. No need for polyurethanes or whatever. In fact I strongly recommend against trying to 'improve' it with other products.

    Use the same application technique for the whole job. Don't change between brush and roller or type of brush. Pick one and stick with it. Cheers
    Every construction obeys the laws of physics. Whether we like or understand the result is of no interest to the universe.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
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    9,734
    I used a foam roller to apply it to me Unisaw and a base I made out of plywood. I went on great and looks good on both, and the plywood base looks just like the metal body of the saw now. It's been about 10 years now and I've had no issues.

    John

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