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Thread: Terminology for elbow - female to male 1/4 inch compression fitting?

  1. #16
    What it sounds like the OP is looking for is a fitting with a female side that will thread onto a compression fitting without a nut or ferrule on it.

    A compression fitting with a nut and ferrule is not "female" because the tubing slides into the nut and ferrule. Male and female doesn't apply to that connection.

    There is no such fitting with a female side that will thread onto the threads where the compression nut threads onto.

    If the OP is trying to make a 180 degree turn out of the icemaker solenoid to head to the back of the fridge that would be done with a 1/4" brass street ell and the 1/4" male x compression ell that's in the solenoid.

    A simple photograph of the application from under his fridge and a markup of what is trying go be done would save all this foolishness.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stephen Tashiro View Post
    I've been to local hardware stores and, according to the staff, they don't stock the elbow I want. I didn't find one when I looked myself.

    In case my question still isn't clear, here is a photo. The copper line will be replaced by the braided line, but the braided line has a burst protector on the end, so it can't make the right angle turn to go from the valve up the wall.Attachment 392829

    Stephen
    You're making this hard on your self.
    the braided line will have some "type" of compression fitting. The manufacturer of that hose will have that "type" of compression fitting to an NPT adapter. This NPT adapter can come in many configurations, but the bottom line is to remove all of the fittings between the valve and the copper tube. That looks like a 3/8" valve in the photo. Find the corresponding elbow that looks like the one on the left in Lee's reply. You need to match one side to the NPT of the valve,and the other side to the braided hose compression to NPT adapter. That's it. The reason you want to do this is two fold;
    Galvanic corrosion. Brass to stainless tubing fittings can "react", so an NPT fitting is used as the transition between the two materials.
    NPT fittings are cheap and easy to make up. Compression fittings are not. For long term repair and serviceability, use the NPT transition fittings as the sacrificial component

    Compression fitting have a "Tube end" and a "Port" end. This would be the female male that every one is referring to. Pipe fittings are MIP and FIP. NPT fittings are MNPT and FNPT.
    I have installed thousands and thousands of fittings, from virtually every tubing fitting manufacturer in the US. From 30" hg to 35,000 psi. Don't make it harder than it has to be.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  3. #18
    Didn't see the photo at the ball valve. Looks like a 1/2 male npt to 1/4" compression adapter. Shut the valve, remove the adapter and put a 1/2" npt street elbow in there and put the adapter in the street ell. Your compression fitting will be pointing up where you want it. Adjust any sizes for actual sizes.

  4. #19
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    Way overcomplicated.

    Do like Mark says above.

    Just plain turn the piping upwards w a basic steel galv 90, street, or regular, whatever is easiest/ most appropriate.

    Available at ANY hardware store for $1.. and re use everything else.

    No fancy brass whatever needed.

    Done.

    Marc
    Last edited by Marc Jeske; 09-06-2018 at 10:01 PM.
    I'm pretty new here, not as as experienced as most. Please don't hesitate to correct me

  5. #20
    Pretty soon the PC police will come after the trades and the male/female terminology.

  6. #21
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    Ok, the revised plumbing is shown in the photo.

    IceMakerLine3.jpgHowever, the joint at the upper end of the new elbow has a slow leak no matter how I tighten the fitting. Next I'll try replacing the reducer.

  7. #22
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    Stephen
    Sometimes the "dope" used won't fill the machining voids in fittings consistently.
    If you can get ahold of some Rector Seal, you could try that. It does have a cure time though, so you will need to leave that fitting dry and unpressurized for a period of time.
    There are also epoxy thread sealants, bit you would be better off buying two new fittings and doing it over.
    Don't over tighten brass NPT fittings. It can damage them, "stretch the threads", and they will begin to leak from over tightening.
    I've found that the white teflon tape sold lately is garbage. I've been using the yellow tape for gas fittings. It seems to work much better than what I can get locally
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  8. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Marc Jeske View Post
    Way overcomplicated.

    Do like Mark says above.

    Just plain turn the piping upwards w a basic steel galv 90, street, or regular, whatever is easiest/ most appropriate.

    Available at ANY hardware store for $1.. and re use everything else.

    No fancy brass whatever needed.

    Done.

    Marc
    Now you have introduced two sources of galvanic reaction, at both ends where the galvanized elbow meets the brass valve and brass adapter. The elbow may be galvanized, the threads aren't. That's why I recommended to use brass elbow. Bruce Wrenn P-1 Plumbing licensee in a previous lifetime

  9. #24
    The leak at the thread is likely the cause of our unfortunate ability to only purchase junk fittings sourced from greedy U.S. capitalists who force them to make fittings at a grossly inferior standard. This happens all the time with black iron gas fittings, plumbing, brass, galvanized, and so on. NPT threads are exactly that "NATIONAL PIPE TAPER". Its not uncommon for home center fittings to never tighten up on the taper. The taper is what seals the thread. Not the thread. I cant count the times Ive seen home center fittings completely bottom out before ever sealing. A fitting with a hex on it will thread it until the hex bottoms out against the shoulder of the mating fitting and will STILL leak. So then you back it all the way out, apply several more wraps of tape, some compound, and try again.

    We as utter idiots have sold our souls to the devil. A taper pipe connection should seal with three to four threads remaining. These home center threads never even come close.

    Congratulations folks. Here we are.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Wrenn View Post
    Now you have introduced two sources of galvanic reaction, at both ends where the galvanized elbow meets the brass valve and brass adapter. The elbow may be galvanized, the threads aren't. That's why I recommended to use brass elbow. Bruce Wrenn P-1 Plumbing licensee in a previous lifetime
    So, all the hundreds of times over the years I have seen brass connected to galvanized.. is bad?

    How to do it otherwise ?

    Plumb every lineal inch in brass or copper or plastic?

    If one transition spot is OK, why are two bad ?

    Many old homes used Galv.. are transitions not commonplace?

    Even if transitioning is not perfect, or not acceptable for critical applications..Jet fighters,Particle accelerators, Space stations.. is it not totally fine and acceptable for a residence ice maker line w/o any Code conflict?

    I am only asking because you brought it up... sounding like he did a bad bad thing that wil keep him awake now.

    Marc
    Last edited by Marc Jeske; 09-07-2018 at 6:49 PM.
    I'm pretty new here, not as as experienced as most. Please don't hesitate to correct me

  11. #26
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    I am not a Plumber, former licensed Master Elect,.. But it seems to me from all I do know Stephen handled the job well.



    Marc
    I'm pretty new here, not as as experienced as most. Please don't hesitate to correct me

  12. #27
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  13. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by Marc Jeske View Post
    So, all the hundreds of times over the years I have seen brass connected to galvanized.. is bad?

    How to do it otherwise ?

    Plumb every lineal inch in brass or copper or plastic?

    If one transition spot is OK, why are two bad ?

    Many old homes used Galv.. are transitions not commonplace?

    Even if transitioning is not perfect, or not acceptable for critical applications..Jet fighters,Particle accelerators, Space stations.. is it not totally fine and acceptable for a residence ice maker line w/o any Code conflict?

    I am only asking because you brought it up... sounding like he did a bad bad thing that wil keep him awake now.

    Marc
    Marc, around here you won't get an inspector to sign off on mixing brass and steel in new work. Anything that has galvanized pipes is so old (copper, and then plastic has been the standard for more than 50 years,)that most likely they have developed so many leaks, that anything that can be done to salvage them is done, just not inspected. Only place we see galvanized is the heat traps for water heaters.
    Last edited by Bruce Wrenn; 09-08-2018 at 9:01 PM.

  14. #29
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    An update on the situation. The connection at the top of the street elbow, which had a tiny leak, was re-done using Hercules blue Block after the threads were cleaned of the PTFE sealant that came in a tube. That connection stopped leaking. However, the connection at the other end of the elbow developed a tiny leak. After that connection was also re-done using Hercules blue Block, it stopped leaking.

    I think the basic layout of the plumbing invites problems. The connection to the ice maker line is near the end of the cold water supply to the hot water heater. That connection gets warm unless hot water is used. When hot water is used, it gets cold. So there is continual expansion and contraction going on.

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stephen Tashiro View Post
    I think the basic layout of the plumbing invites problems. The connection to the ice maker line is near the end of the cold water supply to the hot water heater. That connection gets warm unless hot water is used. When hot water is used, it gets cold. So there is continual expansion and contraction going on.
    They make check valves that go in the water lines to the water heater that will help prevent that heating problem.
    Lee Schierer
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