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Thread: Planer Table ideas / feedback

  1. #1

    Lightbulb Planer Table ideas / feedback

    Now that I have a new planer, I’m off to the races on addressing snipe as effectively as possible. One of my Luthier friends recommended making a surface to go on top of my planer Table to go beyond infeed and outfeed extension (flip tables) to avoid snipe. If this is a old subject sorry about being redundant.


    I’ve been exploring possible options and have a few questions.


    This Idea is what I think is in the ball park of what need to make the long 36” or 48” 1.5 inch square laminates for bass guitar necks..


    Here are a few ideas I found on YouTube
    https://youtu.be/KOzRB30gxpE


    https://youtu.be/i6CTmgpcdTM


    I’m wondering how long to make these insert tables? Shooting for two lengths as I mentioned above 36 or 48”.


    Have any of you made one and like it?


    One last question, is a Torsion box type highly recommended, or can a 2 3/4 inch MDF sheets and a melamine top suffice?



    Currently I don’t have a truly flat assembly table.

    Thoughts? Thanks!






    Last edited by Adam Chin; 09-03-2018 at 6:35 AM.

  2. #2
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    Shortly after I acquired my 12-1/2" Delta planer I built a table for it with in feed and out feed extensions. You can see it in the back ground of this photo. It pretty much eliminated any snipe on my projects.
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    Lee Schierer
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  3. #3
    Thanks Lee!


    I’m not exactly sure why, but I replied to you a few days ago and the thread
    isn’t showing it now. Anyway...

    I found this video of a guy who made and edge joint sled also.
    Nice idea I think.

    https://youtu.be/rpq-Cb-UesM

  4. #4
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    Adam
    I like the first one. It's simple and easy.
    The second one is more purpose specific.

    I probably wouldn't make the first one the same way, but he may have had one or two prototypes before he arrived at that design, so it may be best just to build it exactly as he did.
    I would have rabbeted and rounded the edges and used steel, or aluminum "L" stock. This would reduce the profile by 1/2". The UHMW surface is nice, but that is going to be fairly expensive. I'm not sure that an epoxy painted surface that was waxed wouldn't have accomplished the same thing.
    For the length, I would go 48". That is the length, end to end, for the infeed and outfeed roller tables on my 15" Jet stationary planer.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  5. #5
    Thanks Mike!

    I’m thinking about making the table itself a torsion just to reduce on weight
    and possibly ensure on rigidity.

    I actually don’t have a perfectly flat surface at the moment, but should

    I do all my cutting outside and with the FL humidity, everything moves.

    My current indoor assembly table (birch lammed table top isn’t perfect,
    and this 48” Table could serve me inside as well.


    I appreciate your thoughts on that first design

  6. #6
    Have you tried to adjust the snipe out of the planer? One of the biggest culprits are bed rollers (if your planer has them). Adjust them down so they do not engage the wood. I was able to eliminate the snipe from my planer (Grizzly 20"). If you keep the table waxed or coated you really don't need them.

    Next, have you gone through a routine check of all the roller settings and be sure they are spot on?


    That being said, a secondary feed table does work well & maybe the best solution for you.

    I don't think a torsion box is necessary. I piece of MDF or ply laminated on both sides should be adequate.
    Last edited by Robert Engel; 09-06-2018 at 9:34 AM.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Engel View Post
    Have you tried to adjust the snipe out of the planer? One of the biggest culprits are bed rollers (if your planer has them). Adjust them down so they do not engage the wood. I was able to eliminate the snipe from my planer (Grizzly 20"). If you keep the table waxed or coated you really don't need them.

    Next, have you gone through a routine check of all the roller settings and be sure they are spot on?


    That being said, a secondary feed table does work well & maybe the best solution for you.
    Hi Robert,

    I’ll need to check on that. Are these rollers that are the ones up on the planer
    that pull the wood thru, or down on the table?

    Thanks,
    Adam

  8. #8
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    Adam
    A few thoughts.
    Quote Originally Posted by Adam Chin View Post
    Thanks Mike!

    I’m thinking about making the table itself a torsion just to reduce on weight
    and possibly ensure on rigidity.
    I think this would overly complicate the solution. The first video's solution is elegant in it's simplicity.

    I actually don’t have a perfectly flat surface at the moment, but should
    If you only need to make the bed, a 48"x12" bed could be made flat on the dining room table.

    I do all my cutting outside and with the FL humidity, everything moves.
    This why you would want to use plywood, or MDF

    My current indoor assembly table (birch lammed table top isn’t perfect,
    and this 48” Table could serve me inside as well.

    David Marks used to have a video on making a torsion box, without a flat reference. If it's still on the net, it's worth the time watching it.


    I appreciate your thoughts on that first design

    Keep it simple. The more variables you put into it, the more things that will need to be accounted for to keep it flat.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Cutler View Post
    Adam
    A few thoughts.


    Keep it simple. The more variables you put into it, the more things that will need to be accounted for to keep it flat.

    Sage advise to keep it simple. I do like the example of video #1.

    I could see doing a few layers of plywood or MDF, and 1/2” or 3/4 of Melamine particle board.
    I just thought the stiffening bars was a bit more (but it may be essential). Didn’t exactly follow your thought on aluminum “L”.

    This guy has a similar, yet simpler version which helps point out that the planer itself needs a good anchor.

    https://youtu.be/Eadz-uNuD-4

    Thanks!

  10. #10
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    Adam, before I moved to the Hammer A3-31, I had a Delta lunchbox. (It was rarely used because of the noise - and I preferred using handplanes). It was, nevertheless, a clean performer - no snipe - after a modification. This was to made the steel extension in- and outfeed tables as coplanar and rigid as possible. Especially rigid. It is the weight of long boards on the tables that causes them to bend, and that ends in snipe.

    I would recommend a simple table top that extends all the way through the machine. In addition, you need to make the tables rigid. This is what I did ...







    The bolts allow for adjustability. In the end the tables are stable and coplanar.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  11. #11
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    Derek looks to have the simplest and best idea there. On my 15” 4 post planer I don’t use anything, no extensions or anything, and I have the planer dialed in.

    What planer do you have?

    KISS

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    Adam, before I moved to the Hammer A3-31, I had a Delta lunchbox. (It was rarely used because of the noise - and I preferred using handplanes). It was, nevertheless, a clean performer - no snipe - after a modification. This was to made the steel extension in- and outfeed tables as coplanar and rigid as possible. Especially rigid. It is the weight of long boards on the tables that causes them to bend, and that ends in snipe.

    I would recommend a simple table top that extends all the way through the machine. In addition, you need to make the tables rigid. This is what I did ...







    The bolts allow for adjustability. In the end the tables are stable and coplanar.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Thanks Derek!

    I like these adjustable end bars to make the in/outfeed tables coplanar.

    I’m wondering how you attached these to the metal tables?

    Thanks
    Adam

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Day View Post
    Derek looks to have the simplest and best idea there. On my 15” 4 post planer I don’t use anything, no extensions or anything, and I have the planer dialed in.

    What planer do you have?

    KISS
    I’ve got a DeWalt DW734, which does have a carriage lock.
    I mainly get a bit of snipe on the outfeed side.
    It could probably use some more dialing in regardless.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adam Chin View Post
    Thanks Derek!

    I like these adjustable end bars to make the in/outfeed tables coplanar.

    I’m wondering how you attached these to the metal tables?

    Thanks
    Adam
    Adam, there is no need to attach the rests to the tables - the tables rest on the rests This makes it possible to adjust them. The weight of the tables is enough to keep them in place.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    Adam, there is no need to attach the rests to the tables - the tables rest on the rests This makes it possible to adjust them. The weight of the tables is enough to keep them in place.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Awesome, thanks Derek!

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