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Thread: Airless or help for spraying latex

  1. #1

    Airless or help for spraying latex

    I will soon have to paint about 6 feet of louvered bifold doors for a closet. I will use the same latex I have used for the other trim. But I REALLY don't want to paint them with a brush. I've rolled or brushed everything so far painting the trim before installation. Painting 16 foot lengths on sawhorses is not terrible. But bi-folds are difficult to do with a brush.

    I have a Fuji mini-mite 3 stage which I like but I will need a bigger tip to spray latex. Even with a larger tip, what I read says I will need to thin. That isn't a deal breaker but will mean at least one more coat.

    I've used an airless before and with latex it worked fine. Probably wouldn't have to thin. A cheap Graco is about twice the price of the tip I need for the Fuji. I might use it on the trim of the house but I doubt it. I question how much time it would save once masking is figured in. So it probably would only get used on interior trim. Would have been handy when I was painting a bunch of passage doors.

    I think the right answer is just buy the needle set I need and try the Fuji. I'm sure it will spray a better pattern than a Graco. The quart cup would be a pain if I try it on the house but I doubt I will do that. Any other thoughts?

  2. #2
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    I have no experience with a 3 stage HVLP, or that particular airless rig. I have done plenty with a 4 stage, and hundreds of gallons with a pro airless rig. For that job, I would advise to stay with what you're used to with your 3 stage. One hesitation, on one stroke with the airless, and you have a lot of work to do that you didn't want to do. I wouldn't advise anyone to think about doing their first finish work with an airless sprayer on louvers.

    I'd advise to thin, check the viscosity to within specified limits, and practice on something besides those doors before you start spraying them. Don't worry about how many coats it takes. If you try to cover everything with one coat, you'll probably get some runs, and sags.

  3. #3
    I spray latex paint with a gravity feed HVLP gun and a compressor. I purchased a Fuji Q5, and returned it a few days later. I tried different tip sizes, and experimented with altering the viscosity of various paint products. I was not satisfied with my results. However, my results might not be typical. The Fuji systems are supposed to be great. I don’t doubt that they work well for some folks out there. I’m watching this thread in hopes that I learn what I did wrong. I also included some pictures of the results I get with my current set up. I’m generally happy with my current set up, aside from the noise.
    4DB081AB-27DC-4921-B4EA-5E2BABB957DE.jpg B896D8CE-BD88-47A4-9E5F-C0558A7E6356.jpg
    B259A73A-E166-4482-AFF9-82ECE9F355C6.jpg F89437D6-E791-439E-A1DF-43B35F2A5648.jpg

  4. #4
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    I think those doors should come out fairly easily. The top pins should be spring-loaded, or adjustable. The required skill level goes way down if you can get them horizontal to spray.

  5. #5
    It might also be worth mentioning that some folks prefer Emtech 6500 or Sherwood Williams Kem Aqua plus as alternatives to traditional latex paints. Both options can be tinted like latex. Both brands are thinner than latex, and most likely easier to spray. Folks might have different opinions in regards to whether they are the appropriate product to use on an interior door.

  6. #6
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    Even Sherwin-Williams Pro Classic would be a better choice than regular latex paint, on doors, and trim, and is available in any of their paint stores even if it's not a pro stocking store. On sale now too. It's easy to spray a perfect finish with it.
    https://www.sherwin-williams.com/hom...acrylic-enamel

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom M King View Post
    Even Sherwin-Williams Pro Classic would be a better choice than regular latex paint, on doors, and trim, and is available in any of their paint stores even if it's not a pro stocking store. On sale now too. It's easy to spray a perfect finish with it.
    https://www.sherwin-williams.com/hom...acrylic-enamel
    I second this opinion. I’m torn between Pro Classic and The Emerald Urethane. I think I prefer Pro Classic.

  8. #8
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    If you are referring to the WB ProClassic, it has a viscosity of about 500 seconds in a #4 Ford cup. You need an air assisted HVLP gun or a really large N/N set for a gravity feed gun to avoid thinning, probably a 2.5 mm and you likely would still need to thin it. Emtech 6500 and KemAqua Plus would be much better choices with a gravity feed gun. GF'S Enduro White Poly sprays about the same, too.

    Best to find a product that works with your equipment.

    John

  9. #9
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    I sprayed 30 six panel doors with a $300 Graco X5. Almost no time painting, most time was in setup and cleaning the rig. Just have a brush handy to catch the few runs you might get. Haven't tried a louvered door though. Since then I also did 23 gallons on fresh drywall in a weekend. And looking at doing the fresh drywall in my son's new 2000 sf ranch this fall. Just another tool to invest in. I too would recommend the Sherwin-Williams Pro Classic self leveling paint for all of your trim.
    NOW you tell me...

  10. #10
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    I have struggled with using a gravity feed HVLP for paint and finally bought the Graco 360 sprayer just for paint. It is sub $200 and is amazing for paint once you get the learning curve down.

    Definitely worth the money for paint projects.

    Joe

  11. #11
    I've sprayed latex, slightly thinned, with a gravity feed HVLP conversion gun and a 2.0 or 2.2 tip (don't remember the exact size). Came out great but it took a couple of coats and I was spraying a horizontal surface (a bunch of shelves and uprights for a closet installation - but I was able to do all of them horizontally before installation).

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  12. #12
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    I have an Titan 400 airless sprayer and it sprays latex well straight out of the can but I only use it for large projects as it wastes a lot of paint on clean up. I think it sucks up a quart of paint to start.

    I sprayed some cabinets with a quart cup air sprayer but I used oil based paint Egg shell finish from Sherwin Williams. It is easier to spray.

  13. #13
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    I found some videos on spraying louvers. This first one is airless, with a Graco Fine Finish tip (since it's green). I think because of the amount of overspray that it was made before they came out with the low pressure tips. Sorry, I couldn't find interior louvered doors, but there are probably some videos somewhere. The process would be the same though.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BK02yzno7M4

    This one is with HVLP. I had an Apollo 4 stage that was some faster than this, but still slow. With the new airless guns, with FFLP tips, I sold the Apollo.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPS7SjBkj2A

  14. #14
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    Lee, turn the tip around, and use water to push the paint in the pump, and hose back into the container. Turn the pressure down if you need to. As soon as you see the color change, stop. An ounce or two of water in the latex won't hurt a thing, and you aren't tossing a quart of paint. I keep a short 1/4" hose for spraying small things inside, and it doesn't hold much anyway.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom M King View Post
    Lee, turn the tip around, and use water to push the paint in the pump, and hose back into the container. Turn the pressure down if you need to. As soon as you see the color change, stop. An ounce or two of water in the latex won't hurt a thing, and you aren't tossing a quart of paint. I keep a short 1/4" hose for spraying small things inside, and it doesn't hold much anyway.
    Thanks Tom. I will try it. A short hose does sound like a good idea. Do you have to adjust the pressure different after changing to a short hose?

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