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Thread: Interior metal wall and ceiling panels

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    McDonald, PA
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    Interior metal wall and ceiling panels

    I am seriously considering putting white metal panels on the ceiling and possibly the walls. These are similar to that used on metal roofs but a lighter gauge. They are not only easier to install and clean, but would brighten the work space considerably which should reduce the amount of LED lighting needed. My only concern is noise from the cnc and other equipment.

    This is an existing 35 year old detached concrete block garage. The upper bay is 24' x 38' x 8' and lower bay is 14' x 38' x 12'. Both share the same roof line and there is a 4' drop between the two floor levels. A 4" insulated wall separates the two. My planer, jointer and drum sander as well as rough cut lumber will be in the lower bay in part to control dust The rest including a large cnc will be in the upper bay.

    I plan to insulate the walls to at least R19 and the ceiling to R38. After considering several options I think that the best method would be to place 2 - 1/2" or thicker foam insulation boards with staggered joints between the existing block and the new 2" x 4" studded wall and then add an additional foam board under the metal panel. We get clobbered by the wind on this hill and this should help reduce heating and air costs.

    Have any of you used these metal panels inside and if so is noise an issue?

    Thanks
    Ron

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Sykesville, MD
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    I had a shop years ago with 16' high metal interior ceiling and it definitely was louder than my 10' drywall ceiling in my current shop

  3. #3
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    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    You have to balance the cost/installation vs what you have to do for sound mitigation. Sound reflection is a big problem with "wood" surfaces and can often be worst with "metal" surfaces due to their nature. The most profound change I made to my shop recently was putting in a ceiling made from drop-ceiling panels. "The sound of silence" is totally amazing...so much so that I'd never have a hard surface "up there" in any future shop if I have the choice.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #4
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    Jan 2014
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    McDonald, PA
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    Thanks and I found someone who is selling a large quantity of used ceiling tile and grid to see if they have any left.

  5. #5
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    Apr 2013
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    A big down side to metal is that it gets really trashy looking after several years with all the dents that accumulate.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    You have to balance the cost/installation vs what you have to do for sound mitigation. Sound reflection is a big problem with "wood" surfaces and can often be worst with "metal" surfaces due to their nature. The most profound change I made to my shop recently was putting in a ceiling made from drop-ceiling panels. "The sound of silence" is totally amazing...so much so that I'd never have a hard surface "up there" in any future shop if I have the choice.
    Great tip, Jim. I just got my garage, an Amish pre-built, and I wanted a metal roof. Might have been a mistake, especially since it sits directly next to a large Pinoak. Bushels of accorns.
    This may help my situation.

  7. #7
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    Jan 2014
    Location
    McDonald, PA
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    Where are you located Bill? I feed the wildlife in winter and am always looking for acorns.

  8. #8
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    Jan 2014
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    McDonald, PA
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    True but a bit of body putty and some new paint would hide those.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
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    Michigan
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    Hi Ron
    You are looking at a lot of money for insulation and 2 x 4 walls and siding. How about running your electrical on the block walls and covering that with foam then adhered drywall or wood paneling?

    Wall insulation is over rated. An inch of foam is pretty good and 2 layers of 1" would do a good job covering your electrical.

    If you want to fasten to the walls you could install some 2 x 4s flat to the block on 24" centers.

    Ceiling insulation is more important but spend your money and effort on windows and doors. Especially look at the framing gap around them and the weatherstripping.

    Air leakage and infiltration is almost always the biggest load with windows second.

    Congrats on the new shop. OI'm jealous.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
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    Michigan
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    My shop has a 98" ceiling. That's way better than 97" die to 96" stock. Think about it when you decide what to put in the two rooms and when you think about a ceiling.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    McDonald, PA
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    Thanks and wish now that I made the ceiling (96") in the upper bay higher.

    Cutting corners on the insulation would be a mistake. It gets cold here and we live on top of a hill in the middle of an open field. Beautiful view, but nothing to break the wind. I'd rather pay a bit more now to save on energy costs later.

    Only have three small double hung windows and an entry door. Replacing those, but the biggest issue are the garage doors and I'm covering two of them with a wall and the third with removable 3" foam panels, but other than beefing up the seals on the 4th there isn't much I can do as I will be using it a lot.

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