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Thread: Live Edge Coffee Table

  1. #46
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Punta Gorda, FL
    Posts
    3,028
    Finally got the legs done. The cross joint was too tight and I used a rabbet plane and shoulder plane to shave off the insides. Sipo is tough but its end grain is a bear. I flipped the slab and marked where the base will go with blue tape in case I have to rout for leveling. I also took a router plane to it because the depth was too shallow.


    Another angle got me concerned the base isn't broad enough to prevent tipping.


    When I can get some help, I'll set it up on the floor and see how it works. Another fingers crossed episode.
    “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..." - Mark Twain

  2. #47
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,685
    THAT is going to be a masterpiece...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #48
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    1,950
    It’s beautiful. I’d screw it to the floor for stability if I had to as it is going to be awesome in use.

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Clarks Summit PA
    Posts
    1,733
    That project is coming together nicely! Can't wait to see it finished Julie.

  5. #50
    Excellent choice and execution on the legs. The table is looking great!

  6. #51
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Punta Gorda, FL
    Posts
    3,028
    Thank you, guys!

    We set the table up on the floor to test stability. If someone sits on either long edge, there's a problem. Other than that, it's pretty stable.

    Next is I have to determine what the final finish on the top will be. The Ecopoxy makes the epoxy fill look flawlessly clear but it's high gloss and extremely difficult to use as a thin coat. It's meant to be poured into a form. Time to open the lab and begin some experiments with other finishes.
    “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..." - Mark Twain

  7. #52
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,685
    Julie, I suggest you create a bunch of test boards that are coated with the same epoxy material with the same smoothness/gloss that's on the project. That way you can test adhesion of other products as well as experiment with, perhaps, "rubbing out" the epoxy to reduce the sheen without overcoating with a dissimilar finish or losing all the clarity.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #53
    In my very little experience with epoxy I found that packing tape worked better than painters tape. I just filled some cracks in a walnut slice and it worked pretty well. I covered the entire top and poured through the bottom and it seeped a little but nothing that didn't sand down quickly. I had the piece up on some painters pyramids and I think that is what let it spread a little. Next time I will cover with packing tape and clamp it down to some melamine. I have another walnut slice that has a whole in the middle and will get some ecopoxy and fill it when I get around to it! Look forward to seeing your finished piece!

  9. Quote Originally Posted by Julie Moriarty View Post
    Tomorrow I'll sand it smooth and try to figure out what I can use to contain the epoxy in the center part.
    I've tackled this myself a few times. What I do is I take a piece of plywood with a high gloss HPL top layer. I apply a mould release agent on it, the same stuff that's used for polyester moulds for easier removal and screw it to the bottom of the slab. When the epoxy is fully cured all it takes is a few taps with a hammer to remove it. I screw as close to the hole as I can and fill the screw holes with epoxy as well of course.

    For the finish of the top of the slab a 2 component polyurethane varnish is what you want. It's my experience that a 1 component varnish doesn't really adhere to epoxy all that well. Get a good quality 2 component pu semi-gloss varnish, add 10% thinner and apply a thin coat with a roller. When it's dry sand it with 320 grit, degrease it and apply another thin coat. This will give you a beautiful finish.
    Last edited by Jessica de Boer; 01-03-2019 at 7:51 PM.

  10. #55
    I have watched a few River table videos on youtube and several of the used Rubio Monocoat for the finish. Never used it myself but it sure looked nice on youtube!

  11. #56
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Cashiers NC
    Posts
    603
    Julie it is looking great.
    Charlie Jones

  12. #57
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    New Hill, NC
    Posts
    2,568
    Julie, your table is looking fantastic! Can't wait to see the finished product.

    Jessica - that's a great tip re the mould release agent. I've been using tape and have not been very pleased because the epoxy tends to soften up the adhesive as it cures. Where do you normally source a mould release agent from?

  13. A friend of mine is the general manager at a shipyard where they make fibreglass sail boats. When I need some he puts some in a jar for me.

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