Suggestions for finish coat on shaving brush handles

[Roger Nair]

I am planning on making shaving brushes for Christmas gifts. Likely woods are cherry, walnut, osage orange, black locust, dogwood and perhaps boxelder, all off my lot. A good seal is of high importance, low gloss is preferred not mandatory.

[Prashun Patel]

Walnut in bath items can be an issue. It can mold and can bleach in the presence of soap. At least this is my experience. However I have a shower walnut bench that I finished in Waterlox and it has held up superbly.

[Roger Nair]

Prashun, Waterlox is a candidate that I just so happen to have.

Further note on design, I intend to rive the stock, form the blanks into octagonal cylinders about 1.5 inches flat to flat and intend to carve out the handles. I also want to use synthetic brush knots, which I would consider non-absorbent, so the practice of soaking the brush would not be logical, also why spend top dollar for badger knots on a prototype production. The finished wood surfaces will be from sharp tools, not sanding, however I would expect to use steel wool on the varnish.

[Prashun Patel]

1) the sanding/sharp tool distinction won't make a difference in finish durability. Some people think it makes a difference in visual aesthetics. (I'm not one of them; we'll sanded or well planed look the same to me under a finish).
2) you don't need to use steel wool; I'm partial to fine sandpaper.

[Warren Mickley]

Sanding would make a big difference in durablity and long term appearance. The idea that one might seal it and then not worry about moisture getting in is ridiculous. For something that is really going to be used, things like wear spots, scratches and cracks in the finish are probable. I was thinking of recommending clean, from the tool surfaces before reading your second post.

I have some kitchen utensils with turned walnut handles I made several decades ago. They were made without sanding or finish and their smooth surface has remained through many soakings in soapy water. They are still dark brown. Sanded handles would have fuzzed up and shown grey.

I have an Osage try square that I made in 1977. The color has darkened considerably; it is now a dark reddish brown. A backpack frame that I made that same year has needed no finish thus far. I would think that Osage brushes would need no finish.

Cherry tends to darken with age and weaken with age and might be a little soft. Boxelder will fade and is also a bit soft.

[Roger Nair]

Warren and Prashun, my reasoning is to carry the octagonal faceting (flats) into the coves and around the swells in order to give grip to slick with soap surfaces and tool marks will aid in that respect. The goal is to also not to round out with sanding which would take on a more turned character. Feel with the brush in the hand is important, imperfect surfaces register in a way that turned and smooth surfaces do not.

So my sticking point remains. Finish or not finish? Satin or gloss? Oil finish plus is easy refreshment. Blended oil or pure tung? My preference is for a finish a baby can safely gnaw. That will limit the options.

[Warren Mickley]

I think that over the years this kind of thing has mostly been done with fine grained hardwoods that are somewhat resistant to deterioration by moisture and used with minimal finish. Of the woods you mention, i think walnut, especially a dense walnut, osage would be good. I would experiment with dogwood and see how it reacts to being wet ocaisionally and if it discolors. I would stay away from beech and maple (boxelder is a maple) as too likely to discolor from dirt mould and such. They might not look so good if the finish wore away on exposed edges and discolored at thos places.

[bridger berdel]

I have done this:
Turn the handle on the lathe. Sand to a high grit. Immerse the handle in polyurethane. Pull a vacuum on it, hold until the bubbles stop coming out of the wood. Pressurize it a little (10 lbs). Hold that for a few hours. Remove from the poly, wipe thoroughly dry. Put it in the sun for a day.

Padauk has stayed bright red for a few years of shave brush handle service with this treatment.

[steven c newman]

Maybe.....IF the brush is assembled.....set up a "clothes line"....dip the handles into the waterlox, and hang with a clothes pin by the bristles on a line, over a sheet of newspaper ( or two) and allow to dry....

[al heitz]

If not Waterlox, I would probably use salad bowl finish with several coats since its meant to withstand the washing process.

[Keith Outten]

In the past I have seen pen turners soak clear acrylic in acetone until is melts. They end up with a liquid coating that they use to finish pens with, basically its a hard plastic coating. I don't know if this is an option for your project, just thought I would share another possible option.

[Roger Nair]

Thank you for the responses. I am tending towards using tung oil cut with turpentine for a penetrating first coat with tung oil there after for coat build up. Any thoughts?

[Howard Pollack]

I've used cyanoacrylate, super-glue, as a finish on kitchen knives that get quite wet and soapy- the finish has held up very well over many years. -Howard