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Thread: 5"x5" square posts for a bunk bed

  1. #1

    5"x5" square posts for a bunk bed

    Hi,

    I'm planning to build paint grade, built-in bunk bed for my kids, similar to this. IMG_5646.jpg
    My question at the moment is how to build the 9' vertical posts. I could buy solid 4x4 lumber and have the posts be 3.5"x3.5", but I am thinking they may look a little bit dinky and we might prefer them to be slightly chunkier, maybe 5"x5". I've asked friends for advice and have gotten a few suggestions:
    1. just go with 4x4, it will be fine.
    2. Build a 4 sided, mitered box post with plywood, hardwood, or other.
    3. Build a butt-joined box post with plywood, hardwood, or other
    4. "Sister" 2 2x6s, which would create a 3x5.5" post or 3 2x6s, which would be 4.5"x5.5".

    Any thoughts from the peanut gallery? This project is going to be a lot of work, so I'm looking for a solution that is as quick and easy as possible, but also looks good and will be sturdy.

    Also, does anyone have a good source for plans for a bunk bed like this. I'm 90% through winging it on my own, but it always good to see how others do it. Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    Might you be able to special order larger timbers? When I build my workbench, I ordered 4"x6" posts for the legs from Menards. They also have 6"x6" posts in a variety of lengths.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
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    For painted furniture, your option 3. It is the least cost.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    Katonah, NY
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    191
    How about using the 4X4 post, but then cover it over with 1X pine so that it looks proportionally correct to your eye.

  5. #5
    I just built a twin bed, and used 5/4"x4 poplar butt jointed with dominos for alignment. I did need to run the resulting assembly through the jointer to get something I was happy with; but the seam was nearly invisible after paint.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    McKinney, TX
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    2,065
    If I could get fat 5/4 I’d glue two pieces together or use 2 pieces of 6/4. Either poplar or soft maple
    Steve Jenkins, McKinney, TX. 469 742-9694
    Always use the word "impossible" with extreme caution

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    New Hill, NC
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    2,568
    My advice would be for you to do a glue up.

    Typically 16/4 lumber (4x4) is only dried to 18% MC. If you build an interior project from it eventually it will equalize down below 10% MC. As it equalizes, the wood will move.

    Versus if you buy furniture grade hardwood it should be dried below 10% MC. Thus the glue up will remain much more stable over time.

  8. #8
    The pic looks like a prison for interior decorators who don't like beige.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Camas, Wa
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    3,857
    Just some of my random thoughts and opinions.

    1) A 4x4 or 6x6 will be too soft for my liking, have too much moisture content, and likely twist bow, warp, and crack.
    2)This is for kids so it will get beat up so a certain degree like it or not. It is a built-in so not easily replaced when it gets beat up. I would make it out of hardwood like white oak or hard maple.
    3) I would make a hollow post with mitered edges. I hate seeing wood seams under paint. It always seems to happen eventually.
    4) Plywood plys take some work to hide under paint so I would have no plywood edges exposed.
    5) Plywood corners don't hold up to abuse very well.
    6) You already admitted it is going to be a lot of work. Why try to take shortcuts that will give mediocre results.
    7) I hear MDF takes paint well.

    As far as plans, I just usually make rough sketches with measurements, It is too big to make anything but pieces assemble in place. I would make the bed fronts and posts first. Assemble them in place and then go from there. I would probably make the stairs last.

  10. #10
    Those posts appear to me to be drywall skinned 2x4’s. See the way the pose blends in with the wall?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
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    Michigan
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    2,772
    Everything Cary said. And Mel.

    and

    The drawers look challenging if they are full width. Very handy though.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    Those posts appear to me to be drywall skinned 2x4’s. See the way the pose blends in with the wall?
    Where do you see that. It appears to me to be tightly fitted to the walls, but it's definitely trim work.

  13. #13
    If you aren't sure how it would look, I'd recommend making 1/2 or 1/4 scale mock ups using cheap scraps and hot glue. Probably take you a day or two, maybe less, and you'll see things that you wouldn't notice in a drawing. Once you get the dimensions and proportions you like, then think about construction methods. And I agree with Cary's opinions.

  14. #14
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  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    USA
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    I'd go with 4x4 posts for that project. 5x5 wou li d be too fat. I would not glueup.

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