Resawing on Rikon 10 326

[Mark Rainey]

Resawing on 14 inch Rikon 10 - 326, 8 inch 5/4 cherry with 1/2 inch Woodslicer blade with resaw bar to make 1/2 inch panels. SuccessIMG_6720 copy.jpgIMG_6721.jpgIMG_6722.jpgIMG_6723.jpg

[Nick Decker]

I have that same saw and am very happy with it. Curious as to why you use that vertical pivot bar for your resawing? Using that same blade, I've never had to deal with any drift using just the fence.

[Barry McFadden]

I have that same saw and am very happy with it. Curious as to why you use that vertical pivot bar for your resawing? Using that same blade, I've never had to deal with any drift using just the fence.

Same here... I don't get any drift either....

[Nick Decker]

I know one of those bars came with the saw. No idea where I put it...

[Steve Demuth]

I have that same saw and am very happy with it. Curious as to why you use that vertical pivot bar for your resawing? Using that same blade, I've never had to deal with any drift using just the fence.

Completely agree. If your blade is sharp and your saw is properly set up, it'll cut without drift. I've never used any drift adjustment on my saw, since I figured out how to adjust the thing (I have the same Rikon).

[Mark Rainey]

The resaw bar that comes Rikon is mounted on the fence. There are holes on the fence that fit the bar. In "The Complete Guide to Bandsaws" by Mark Duginske some frequently used resaw techniques are discussed. One is using the rip fence which you guys do. Duginske states "the resaw technique that I prefer and think is the easiest to use is a curved guide attached to the standard rip fence." There is the option of steering the wood if you stray from the layout line. I am a resawing rookie and this is the best outcome I have had resawing so far. Next time, I will try just the fence without the bar.

[Nick Decker]

Mark, I was a resaw rookie myself when I started using the Rikon. I also have Duginske's book and have learned a lot from it.

Not using the bar requires that your saw is well set up, so if you've done your homework there, the fence will work fine for you. Let the fence do the steering, I'm guessing you'll get even straighter cuts with less evidence of tooth marks.

The other advantage is that if the blade wanders it means it's dull, better than wondering if maybe you went off course.

[Curt Harms]

I have the -325 and just used the fence. The only problem I had was the bottom of the stock tended to not stay tight against the fence resulting in one edge being thicker than the other. Table seemed square to the blade so i made a fingerboard to help hold the stock against the fence. That seemed to work.

[Nick Decker]

Curt, I've always used a push block of some kind to deal with what you describe. As long as the stock is flat and square, no problem.