I'm about to start building a guitar and need to hold some pretty thin wood while I hand plane it. Less than an 1/8" rosewood and Sitka spruce.
I'm about to start building a guitar and need to hold some pretty thin wood while I hand plane it. Less than an 1/8" rosewood and Sitka spruce.
I'm sure luthiers have a lot of tricks but, here's one:
Thin Stock Dogs (1).jpgThin Stock Dogs (2).jpgThin Stock Dogs (3).jpgThin Stock Dogs (5).jpg
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
That seems a little scary to me. For one I'd be afraid of hitting it with my plane but I'll try it on some scrap and see how it goes. I'm also concerned with it shearing my wood. My concerns will probably go away after I try it. We'll see. Thank you.
The pics are just to demonstrate. I use 2 or 3 points of contact to distribute the force. No disasters so far ;-)
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Perhaps using double-stick tape, to attach the panel to a thicker substrate, then if the thicker panel is wide enough, clamp it down flat.
Make a shooting board. The traditional japanese crafts tend to do a lot of hand planing of thin materials only they use a hand plane in the pulling action. Here's one from the unplugged woodshop's medicine chest build. A great example.
medicine-chest-part-2.jpg
I always run by the acronym "KISS". Keep It Simple, Stupid! The stupid is not a personal attack just works in the saying and is usually directed at myself
Like so many things in woodworking there are many ways to do this.
The easiest would be if you had a vacuum table. Of course, not everyone has one of those in their shop. Double stick tape might work if it can be removed easily.
Next would be to have a piece of about the same thickness to surround the piece being worked.
There are also some old threads here on the same subject:
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....ith-thin-stock
Here is a picture from an old post that isn't popping up in searches at the moment:
Planing Thin Stock.jpg
The part that makes this work is the stack of shims in the vise. Its purpose is to keep the vise from racking. In effect it also keeps the vise from closing hard enough on a thin workpiece to cause bowing. The other end of the work is held by a wooden bench dog.
One thing to consider is making sure your blade is as sharp as you can get it and to take thin shavings.
There are a few other tricks, but these are some of the basics.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
For short pieces, I use a planing stop glued to a piece of plywood. The sled has a hook that can be held in a vise or just held against the bench.
For long pieces, I prefer to clamp one end down to the bench, and then plane away from the clamp. It helps me stay flat. I flip and repeat from the other side. This of course means you have to consider tear-out by planing against the grain.
If the part thickness and size is critical, side rails that capture the piece can allow you to plane at a skew angle to the end of the board, which offers some benefits under some conditions.
Not a hand tool solution, but if I had expensive spruce and rosewood, I’d find someone with a thickness sander.
Spruce, If like most softwoods, is better off planed than sanded. If it’s a short piece then use a stop, if it’s a long piece it’s likely going to need to be in tension.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Flex Seal?
I've used this method before and had success. Pretty easy to do if you have a wooden clamp.
I like that method but it won't work with .085" sides and guitar tops and backs. It made me think though. If I glue a small block of wood to the underside at the end, I can use this method very well. Then I wouldn't even need the vise, I could just use it like a built in bench stop!