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Thread: finish for Walnut

  1. #16
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    I like how walnut looks under a lacquer finish. All of the squares on the table top are black walnut. If you rotate the table 90 degrees, the light and dark squares change.
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    Lee Schierer
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  2. #17
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    I like to use garnet shellac -no BLO. Dark Walnut Watco (danish oil) if I want it to stay brown. I've heard some people use Waterlox on walnut, but have not tried that yet.

  3. #18
    I used Waterlox on my last 3 walnut pieces and was very happy with the results.

  4. #19
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    Dec 2010
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    Arm-R-Seal:




    BLO, Sealcoat shellac, and GF's HP Poly:



    John

  5. #20
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    Gorgeous ... positively radiant. Nice work John.

    Assuming you are wiping on the arm-r-seal ... or I see they recommend a 1.0-1.2 tip? How many coats is that top walnut piece? Is 'many coats' all you do to fill the pores? Seven days dry time is a long time (says 30 days cure). Last question ... which sheen is that?

    https://generalfinishes.com/wood-fin...-based-topcoat
    "the mechanic that would perfect his work must first sharpen his tools.” Confucius

  6. #21
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    Thanks Bill. I had a heck of a time with that slab. I couldn't wipe the ARS on uniformly to save myself; it was just too large and would start to set up and then I'd get streaks. I must have had 3 or 4 coats on it before I knew I had to change. So I ROS it dead flat again and then cut the ARS 25% with mineral spirits and applied it with a foam brush. I put it on much thicker than by wiping and it flowed out beautifully before it set up. I put on 3 or 4 coats that way, just scuff sanding between coats. Then I ROS sanded it again with 600 grit I think, and then applied two more coats. I applied all the coats as soon as possible after the one before to help the layers bond together and avoid witness lines in case I cut through a layer during the rub out. I let it cure 10 or 11 days and then ROS with Abralon up to I'm not sure something around 3500 - 4000 grit using soapy water as a lube. Then I used an automotive polishing compound on a bonnet on my ROS to polish it.

    FWIW, I found Abralon to work well but wear out extremely quickly. I couldn't even finish the top (24 sq. ft) with one disk before it was worn out. Up to 2000 grit I use Klingspore sanding disks now, and then switch to automotive polishing compound.

    I was using gloss Arm-R-Seal.

    John

  7. Three words, Tried and true. This is a natural oil finish that is very easy to apply, get consistent results and is NON-toxic, with NO-VOC's, (this is NOT a water-based finish), I use 4-6 coats wiped on or a foam brush. The directions say to use a "very" thin coat, well, they mean it. Usually 24 hours between coats, depending on weather conditions, like pretty much any finish.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by John TenEyck View Post
    Thanks Bill. I had a heck of a time with that slab. I couldn't wipe the ARS on uniformly to save myself; it was just too large and would start to set up and then I'd get streaks. I must have had 3 or 4 coats on it before I knew I had to change. So I ROS it dead flat again and then cut the ARS 25% with mineral spirits and applied it with a foam brush. I put it on much thicker than by wiping and it flowed out beautifully before it set up. I put on 3 or 4 coats that way, just scuff sanding between coats. Then I ROS sanded it again with 600 grit I think, and then applied two more coats. I applied all the coats as soon as possible after the one before to help the layers bond together and avoid witness lines in case I cut through a layer during the rub out. I let it cure 10 or 11 days and then ROS with Abralon up to I'm not sure something around 3500 - 4000 grit using soapy water as a lube. Then I used an automotive polishing compound on a bonnet on my ROS to polish it.

    FWIW, I found Abralon to work well but wear out extremely quickly. I couldn't even finish the top (24 sq. ft) with one disk before it was worn out. Up to 2000 grit I use Klingspore sanding disks now, and then switch to automotive polishing compound.

    I was using gloss Arm-R-Seal.

    John
    What grit did you finish the wood to? I'm thinking of trying out the hand scraper on my table top. I've never sanded anything above 600 grit. It makes me nervous to ROS a finish. What type of ROS are you using? I would be afraid of taking off too much finish material.

    I'm assuming I could use the final sanding techniques on tung oil instead of ARS?

  9. #24
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    I am another fan of Watco Danish oil (all brands aren't the same) followed by a couple of coats of Johnson's Paste Wax. This is not a durable finish for table top use but looks great on items like clocks and boxes that won't be heavily used. Restoring the item to its original luster is as easy as buffing with an old t-shirt.

  10. #25
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    Andrew ... John is pretty fast at answering. For his Arm R Seal finish ... looks like he progressed upward probably through 600 grit and then transitioned to Abralon. I'm sure he will pitch in with detail.

    I use the Festool ETS EC (150mm) and the Festool grit system is slightly different from US Cami. For high gloss I use the Festool grits through 320 and then shift to Festool's Platin high grit abrasive foam pad (similar to Abralon) up to 4000 with or without a lubricant depending on finish. I put the platin on my ETS EC but most folks supposedly use a polisher.
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    "the mechanic that would perfect his work must first sharpen his tools.” Confucius

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrew whicker View Post
    What grit did you finish the wood to? I'm thinking of trying out the hand scraper on my table top. I've never sanded anything above 600 grit. It makes me nervous to ROS a finish. What type of ROS are you using? I would be afraid of taking off too much finish material.

    I'm assuming I could use the final sanding techniques on tung oil instead of ARS?
    Hi Andrew, I can't remember exactly what grit I finished the raw wood with, but suspect it was 150 or 180 as I rarely go higher than that when applying a film finish. I have a Bosch ROS65VC ROS and like it a lot. I think it's similar to Festool but have never used one of those so I couldn't say for sure. Anyway, I don't think the actual ROS you use makes a huge difference, it's what media type and grit you put on it. Also, you'll note above that I said I applied each new coat of ARS as soon as possible over the prior. I did that so they would bond as seamlessly as possible, sort of like lacquer melting into the prior coat though I'm sure not as homogeneously.

    Since that walnut slab I have switched to Klingspore film disks to rub out a finish, starting at 1200 up to 2000, again with soapy water as a lubricant. From there I switch to Evercoat Triple Cut polishing compound to polish it to whatever sheen I want up to almost high gloss, like the walnut slab. 3M's Trizac disks and polishing compounds should work well, too. Or you could use MicroMesh all the way up to 12,000 grit IIRC.

    If you do use your ROS to wet sand remove the filter canister first, block off the dust outlet, and use solid sanding disks. Even then some crud will get up into it, so I take the pad off mine and blow it out after I'm done so it doesn't form a hardened mess.

    John

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by John TenEyck View Post
    Hi Andrew, I can't remember exactly what grit I finished the raw wood with, but suspect it was 150 or 180 as I rarely go higher than that when applying a film finish. I have a Bosch ROS65VC ROS and like it a lot. I think it's similar to Festool but have never used one of those so I couldn't say for sure. Anyway, I don't think the actual ROS you use makes a huge difference, it's what media type and grit you put on it. Also, you'll note above that I said I applied each new coat of ARS as soon as possible over the prior. I did that so they would bond as seamlessly as possible, sort of like lacquer melting into the prior coat though I'm sure not as homogeneously.

    Since that walnut slab I have switched to Klingspore film disks to rub out a finish, starting at 1200 up to 2000, again with soapy water as a lubricant. From there I switch to Evercoat Triple Cut polishing compound to polish it to whatever sheen I want up to almost high gloss, like the walnut slab. 3M's Trizac disks and polishing compounds should work well, too. Or you could use MicroMesh all the way up to 12,000 grit IIRC.

    If you do use your ROS to wet sand remove the filter canister first, block off the dust outlet, and use solid sanding disks. Even then some crud will get up into it, so I take the pad off mine and blow it out after I'm done so it doesn't form a hardened mess.

    John
    Hi John,

    I'm trying to figure this all out now that I'm getting closer to game time.

    What type of bonnet do you use? It sounds like you need to slow down your ROS to mimic a RO polisher (the actual tool that we should be using)? I have the Bosch 1250DEVS (6" and variable speed).

    I'm betting that I can buy whatever hook and loop 6.5" bonnet I want from the car guys and it will work, but I just don't know.

    Also, it sounds like mineral oil is a better medium to use for wet sanding with an ROS when you are a newbie like me (doesn't cut as fast)? I'll give that a try instead of soap and water.

    Right now, I've mixed 50/50 tung oil / citrus solvent and I'm putting that on in very light coats. For now, I'll try using Big Box Store fine sand paper with water and soap by hand while the good stuff is in the mail. I've only applied the first coat so far. Then I'll try the ROS with mineral oil when the good stuff arrives (Klingspore).

    Thanks for all the help. Finishing is confusing to me.

    Cheers,

  13. #28
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    John, Looks like it was worth the effort!!

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
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    North Virginia
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    As an alternative to "wet" sanding, I rub the finish out using wax and oil-free 0000 steel wool. Generally, I use my own wax blend, which is made with beeswax, shellac wax, mineral spirits, and sometimes other additives. The first couple of rub-downs, you need to wipe completely off, to get rid of the swarf. Then apply a last top coat with muslin and buff it out. This works on top of almost any traditional finish (BLO, Watco, TruOil, shellac, waterlox, etc.).

  15. I enjoy reading threads about finishing because it's both an art and a science, and since the wood we use is so stupid expensive it's nice to hear advise from those who have been there and done that.

    My (possibly dumb) question is why not use walnut oil on walnut? Also, what applications would walnut oil be useful or preferred?

    And lastly, to those who like danish oil followed by wax, what are you using for wax? I've never dealt with wax other than with turning.

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