Rip fence design ?

[jack forsberg]

looking for ideas and input on this Fence design for a Poitras 15 table saw with a BieseMeyer fence . Its what i had and was free .

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i have added a sliding low plate and a lock and cut the length of the T fence down .

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would like to see some SLR rip fences and input on the design please

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[johnny means]

I would move the lever knobs to the outside of the fence. It's too easy to imagine on of those getting in the way, especially for the type of cuts that call for a low fence. Also, I think fences in general should have some type of clamp to lock to the back end of the table. This would be helpful when using feather boards and other hold-downs and jigging.

[Jim Becker]

That's a nice way to get the "low fence" utility with a Biesemeye style fence...

[jack forsberg]

I would move the lever knobs to the outside of the fence. It's too easy to imagine on of those getting in the way, especially for the type of cuts that call for a low fence. Also, I think fences in general should have some type of clamp to lock to the back end of the table. This would be helpful when using feather boards and other hold-downs and jigging.

I think you take a little look you’ll see I drilled the table for a locking location right at the arbor . In my opinion a far better location than the back.

[jack forsberg]

That's a nice way to get the "low fence" utility with a Biesemeye style fence...

Thanks Jim it’s not easy making this American T fence Into a sliding Rip plate

[joe milana]

I think you take a little look you’ll see I drilled the table for a locking location right at the arbor . In my opinion a far better location than the back.

I think Johnny is talking about moving the kipp levers to the back side of the fence & Having the bolt heads on the blade side of the fence. (if that makes sense) Much less likely you will bump your knuckles on the kipp levers as you pass your hands by them. Pardon the artwork, but something like this:
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[Jim Becker]

I think Johnny is talking about moving the kipp levers to the back side of the fence & Having the bolt heads on the blade side of the fence. (if that makes sense) Much less likely you will bump your knuckles on the kipp levers as you pass your hands by them.

This makes sense to me, too.

[jack forsberg]

I think Johnny is talking about moving the kipp levers to the back side of the fence & Having the bolt heads on the blade side of the fence. (if that makes sense) Much less likely you will bump your knuckles on the kipp levers as you pass your hands by them.

My bad great suggestion. Of course it should be noted that this will never be a hand fed saw it has a 1 hp four wheeler feeder . it is strictly a ripping machine . I could replace the lock handle with an Allen head but hands will never be in there.!Depth of cut is 5 1/2 inches and it be rather scary with the push stick

[Jim Becker]

Even so, Jack...reversing those fasteners is one less thing for something to catch on and honestly, there may be an opportunity for someone to use it hand fed with the low fence...that's actually how I use my fence on my slider 90% of the time.

[jack forsberg]

Even so, Jack...reversing those fasteners is one less thing for something to catch on and honestly, there may be an opportunity for someone to use it hand fed with the low fence...that's actually how I use my fence on my slider 90% of the time.

I agree it’s a great idea problem is if I want the plate to slide I’d have to put slots in another location Or come up with an elaborate nut Which is generally not impossible. I do like the idea

[Doug Garson]

Jack, is the purpose of the slots in the angle iron to adjust the location to act as a short Euro style fence or is there another reason?

[jack forsberg]

Jack, is the purpose of the slots in the angle iron to adjust the location to act as a short Euro style fence or is there another reason?

Yes that is what the slots are for a short position fence

[Rod Sheridan]

Looks nice Jack, it's really nice to have both a short and long fence.

I use my feeder on the saw with a low fence when I have a lot of strips to cut or I'm using a dado...........Rod.

[Jim Becker]

I agree it’s a great idea problem is if I want the plate to slide I’d have to put slots in another location Or come up with an elaborate nut Which is generally not impossible. I do like the idea

For the application I speak of...it doesn't slide, other than potentially for placing it so it ends just beyond the blade like you can with a UniFence or almost every fence on a Euro slider. It's just a low version of the fence which can often be easier to work with when ripping thinner stock than the taller fence simply because it gives more clearance for one's hand and push block/stick.

[johnny means]

I think you take a little look you’ll see I drilled the table for a locking location right at the arbor . In my opinion a far better location than the back.

I did notice the out board lock, which I do think would stiffen up the fence and provide some hold down strength. But I do think it would easily be twisted if using vertical feather boards. A mechanism on the tail end of the fence would work better in this situation.