Looking for Crosscut Panel Saw

[Jason Lester]

I'm finishing up my tool chest and trying to fill in some too areas where I'm lacking. I have a cabinet tablesaw and a large bandsaw, so I doubt I'll ever do much (if any) ripping by hand. I do occasionally need to crosscut something rough to get it down to a manageable size. I normally use my 18V trim saw or circular saw, but I would like to have an aggressive 20-22" saw to use instead. In looking at eBay auctions, it looks like something like a D8 in 8tpi would be about right. Any other models I should consider? I don't really know much about handsaws. I don't need a full size one though. I'll be at the Woodwright's Shop in a few weeks and thought I might look there for a saw along with a beading plane.

Thanks, Jason

[Noah Magnuson]

An 8tpi D8 filed crosscut is going to be a good all around panel saw. I think you are on the right track. Any number of saws in that size/tpi range will do for your needs, from the sounds of it. You might also look at a ryoba as it will fit your tool chest and handle a multitude of situations that a panel saw would cover. I use full-sized western hand saws for large/long cuts, but typically go for a ryoba where a panel saw would normally be used.

[Steve Southwood]

I have bought a couple saws from this guy. Fair price, I think. https://www.vintagewoodworkingtools.net/

[David Eisenhauer]

Out of curiosity, why that shorter length saw as opposed to a "full" length saw? I have little experience with a shorter panel saw as opposed to the full length (my definition) "carpenter" saw and did not see the advanrage to the shorter length when I did use one briefly.

[Warren Mickley]

Out of curiosity, why that shorter length saw as opposed to a "full" length saw? I have little experience with a shorter panel saw as opposed to the full length (my definition) "carpenter" saw and did not see the advanrage to the shorter length when I did use one briefly.

I grew up using a short saw that my grandfather used for household work. When I was buying tools for myself I bought a 26 inch saw. The short saw is nice for a six year old, but the only reasons I can think of for buying a 20 inch saw are cheaper price or to fit into a tool chest.

[Stewie Simpson]

Warren Mickley
The short saw is nice for a six year old,

https://www.wenzloffandsons.com/faq/...selection.html

4) Panel Saw

I tend to drop clear down to 20” saw lengths once the coarser saws of 26” and greater are not appropriate for the work I do. In taking into consideration one’s stroke length, a 22” to 24” saw may be more appropriate even with the coarseness—or coarser— of this category’s toothing. The prime reason I choose to drop in length when using saws in this ppi range is because the saw plates are thinner, requiring less effort in sawing.

Panel saws of the 20” length I use are tools for near final cuts to width or length. As such, mine are toothed at 7 ppi rip and 10 ppi cross cut. I find the usage of these saws great on softwood stuff up to 4/4 and for harder woods ¾” and thinner. As mentioned above, the saw plates being thinner allows this size of saw to work swiftly in the size of stuff indicated.

(5) Fine Panel Saw

This category in the chart above is where I tend to use the finer toothed saws. These lengths and toothing I use on ½” or so stuff to swiftly and accurate dimension. The two saws I own in this category are only used on hardwoods that are on the thinner side. These saws are of an appropriate length for my stroke considering the toothing, 20” for the rip and 18” for the cross cut, 11 ppi rip and 12 ppi cross cut. For these saws, the saw plate is yet still a bit thinner than the Panel Saws. This is due to the great points per inch on the saws.

A quick note about the relationship between ppi, thickness of a given saw’s plate, and length. The coarser the saw the more work it is for the saw plate. A saw that is say 5 ppi has a far greater stress placed upon the saw plate than one that is 10 ppi. The greater the stress upon an unbacked saw, the thicker the plate required in order to avoid kinking the saw. The relationship of length to ppi is that I believe the finer the saw to be used, one is working on refining coarse parts. Therefore, one should be taking more deliberate, careful strokes, the elbow not crossing to the back of the body: i.e., using shorter strokes.

[steven c newman]

I tend to use both sizes...
IMG_5435 (640x480).jpg
Just depends on whose "turn" it is...

The four hanging on the side are 20" panel saws, including a Disston D-8, 10ppi 20" long panel saw.....

[David Eisenhauer]

Thanks Stewie. I have always wondered about the shorter length panel saws.

[Art Mann]

It appears that you don't object to using power tools at least in some instances. Why not just buy a track saw for doing cross cutting?

[Warren Mickley]

Peter Nicholson, who worked as a cabinetmaker in Edinburgh and London in the 18th century wrote this in 1812:

nicholson panel saw.jpeg

[Charles Guest]

I'm finishing up my tool chest and trying to fill in some too areas where I'm lacking. I have a cabinet tablesaw and a large bandsaw, so I doubt I'll ever do much (if any) ripping by hand. I do occasionally need to crosscut something rough to get it down to a manageable size. I normally use my 18V trim saw or circular saw, but I would like to have an aggressive 20-22" saw to use instead. In looking at eBay auctions, it looks like something like a D8 in 8tpi would be about right. Any other models I should consider? I don't really know much about handsaws. I don't need a full size one though. I'll be at the Woodwright's Shop in a few weeks and thought I might look there for a saw along with a beading plane.

Thanks, Jason

For rough cuts, I'd get a short impulse hardened saw (a 'toolbox' saw) with Japanese style teeth from the Borg. These things fly through wood. You won't miss the length.

[Brandon Speaks]

An 8 TPI D8 is a good all around saw. They are also plentiful and cheap although most need a good sharpening you can get one that needs little to no other restore for probably less than $20. Short ones are sometimes a bit more $ than full sized as there are less total of them out there, but still not expensive.

[lowell holmes]

Buy an old saw, cut the saw plate to the length you want, file the teeth off, re-tooth, sharpen and set the teeth. Make a new curly maple
handle and new saw nuts if you want to. Google "screwdriver saw set" if you do not have a saw set.

You will be really proud of your new saw. You can find on-line instructions for sharpening a hand saw.

[Jim Koepke]

I would like to have an aggressive 20-22" saw to use instead. In looking at eBay auctions, it looks like something like a D8 in 8tpi would be about right. Any other models I should consider?

If you can find a saw as described at the WoodWright's shop, it would be a useful addition to your tool chest.

As others have stated you might find something at the borgs that are actually less expensive and a touch more aggressive.

The big difference is do you want a saw that may be a reason for you to learn saw sharpening or would you prefer a saw where you purchase another saw when it starts to cut poorly.

jtk

[Jason Lester]

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. I probably should have listed what I do have already. I have a Ryoba double-sided saw. It seems pretty slow to me though. The blade is only about 10", so you can't take a very big stroke. I also have a Stanley 15" Fatmax and a Great Neck 18". The handles on both are not very comfortable and I don't think either can be sharpened. The teeth are set really wide on both and it's hard to keep them going straight, that might be partly me though.

The reason I was going for the shorter panel saw was that I won't really be working off saw benches. I thought a 26-28" model might be awkward at bench height.

I do want to learn to sharpen saws at some point as well.