Suggestions on type of finish to use

[Michael Furey]

I’m about to finish this live edge slab which is pin oak, and it’s going to be used as a bar top in my basement. Not going to get crazy use, mainly on sundays for football. Wanted to see what everyone’s thoughts were on what to use to finish it. I mainly use a water based poly on most projects. But I don’t usually do live edge stuff. Was thinking of either doing a satin poly, waterlox, or Rubio Monocoat. What’s everyone’s thoughts? I’ve heard with waterlox or Rubio, you won’t get any water rings or anything. So they all seem pretty durable, but not sure what I should use because I’d like to keep as much of the natural look as possible. Thoughts?

[Jessica de Boer]

I've never worked with the stuff you mention so I can only tell you what I use. If it's just for football on Sundays International Gold Spar satin is a good choice if you can get your hands on it. Dilute the first coat with 20-25% mineral spirits and the 2 finishing coats with 10% mineral spirits. Epifanes yacht varnish is also very nice and you can use the same percentages.

[Mike Gottlieb]

I would suggest Arm-R-Seal wipe on finish by General Finishes. Easy to use and provides a very durable finish.

[John TenEyck]

I think you'll get the most natural look from Rubio, Osmo, or something similar. Waterlox, etc. are film formers and the piece will look varnished, which it is.

John

[Michael Furey]

I think you'll get the most natural look from Rubio, Osmo, or something similar. Waterlox, etc. are film formers and the piece will look varnished, which it is.

John

I put a coat of Rubio on it last night. Do you think a second coat would be beneficial? Or would it be wasting my time?

[John TenEyck]

I put a coat of Rubio on it last night. Do you think a second coat would be beneficial? Or would it be wasting my time?

I would follow the directions, at least until I've used a product enough to know when/why it's OK to deviate from them.

John

[Scott T Smith]

Michael, for a live edge slab bar top there are two things that you should keep in mind.

First - and foremost - is that wide slabs behave differently than narrow strips of lumber that are glued up. Thus, the critical rule is to put the same number of coats of finish on all surfaces. This means top side, bottom side, live edges and ends. Your objective is to have the same degree of moisture resistance everywhere on the slab.

If you only coat the top surface of the slab, once the home experiences significant changes in interior RH% (such as a dry winter versus a humid summer), the slab will cup significantly.

The second thing to consider is that bar tops typically see a lot of moisture (spilled drinks, condensation rings, etc). So the best finish for a bar is one that is very moisture resistant. Commercial restaurant furniture is frequently finished with post catalyzed conversion varnish, but this is not a readily available finish for a non-professional. Your next best option is some type of marine grade varnish.

If you like the warmth of oil, then by all means do some initial coats with it. However once it's cured consider covering it with a marine varnish.

And if you put oil on the top, then put oil on the bottom too.

Best of success to you with your project.

Scott