stickering drawer stock

[Mark Rainey]

Milled some poplar for drawer stock. It is recommended to sticker and weight thin stock for a couple of days after milling to prevent warpage. Usually I just stack the pieces on my flat workbench and put a weight on top. But it clutters my bench. I work in my basement and do not know of any other flat surface. My basement floor is not flat - it is the typical poured concrete. I never sticker my lumber because I do not have a flat surface to begin with. How can I sticker my drawer stock or other lumber for that matter without a flat surface?

[Bill Adamsen]

A prior bench exhibited enough sag to ruin a project if not "accommodated." My approach was to basically eyeball or laser the bottom layer and wedge into a perfectly flat condition. I eventually rebuilt the bench but that fix is unlikely to be on your short list for the basement floor. You can do the same leveling process with any support surface. Sawhorses come to mind. Is your basement dehumidified?

[Mark Rainey]

A prior bench exhibited enough sag to ruin a project if not "accommodated." My approach was to basically eyeball or laser the bottom layer and wedge into a perfectly flat condition. I eventually rebuilt the bench but that fix is unlikely to be on your short list for the basement floor. You can do the same leveling process with any support surface. Sawhorses come to mind. Is your basement dehumidified?

Yes Bill, I run a dehumidifier & am usually around 50% relative humidity.

[Derek Cohen]

Mark, I will spend a day milling the boards for drawer sides. These are stickered with weights, and left over night. This is enough for 24 drawers. ...



These sides are around 1/4" thick, which is typical for the drawers I build (I usually attach the drawer bottom with slips).

The point I want to make is that, firstly, I get very little movement as I use quarter sawn stock. Secondly, what little movement there is will be taken out when the sides are dovetailed together. This means that one can get to the drawer making sooner than later. There is no need to wait days for these sides to settle.

My strategy is to saw to size, dovetail to a flush fit, glue them up, and insert the drawers into the drawer recess to dry.



Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Becker]

It's not a bad idea to sticker stock that's been milled "extensively" because of potential differences in moisture content on each side as well as in the middle. Re-sawing and milling stock to typical drawer thicknesses qualifies for that IMNO.

[Mark Rainey]

Interesting process Derek. You are using your workbench to sticker. Derek, Jim & others, what other flat surfaces do you use to sticker your lumber - should I ‘level’ part of my basement floor?

[Jim Becker]

Since this is generally for short term, I just use whatever available surface there is...sometimes on my slider; sometimes on the workbench; sometimes on the floor. Etc. My aim is to just let the moisture equalize after milling and before I start building, not to dry it like I would fresh cut timber. Stickering it just allows for the necessary air flow for that to happen.

[Mark Rainey]

Since this is generally for short term, I just use whatever available surface there is...sometimes on my slider; sometimes on the workbench; sometimes on the floor. Etc. My aim is to just let the moisture equalize after milling and before I start building, not to dry it like I would fresh cut timber. Stickering it just allows for the necessary air flow for that to happen.

OK, thanks Jim, I suppose stickering is mostly for moisture equalization & drying, but can you understand my concern about stickering thin drawer sides on an uneven surface that might introduce twist?

[Jim Becker]

Yes, I understand. Having a "reasonably flat surface" is always a good idea.

[scott lipscomb]

Put sleepers on the floor, level with shims, and stack it up like Derek, did.

[Mark Rainey]

Put sleepers on the floor, level with shims, and stack it up like Derek, did.

Thanks Scott!

[johnny means]

Stickering with weights isn't really helpful long term. It's like flattening a spring. It merely introduces stress that will eventually show itself. A better process would be to mill stock to an oversize dimension, let it move, then mill to final dimensions after it has acclimated and moved.

[Derek Cohen]

Since this is generally for short term, I just use whatever available surface there is...sometimes on my slider; sometimes on the workbench; sometimes on the floor. Etc. My aim is to just let the moisture equalize after milling and before I start building, not to dry it like I would fresh cut timber. Stickering it just allows for the necessary air flow for that to happen.

This is essentially my rational as well. These pieces are milled to size, and may just receive a light planing later when cleaning up. It is different from the process that Johnny mentioned - milling oversize. It depends on the wood and purpose. I would let the wood rest oversize if it were for a table top. Breadboard ends do aid in stabilising the biards (preventing cupping), but there is not the interlocking as per dovetailed drawer sides.

I will sticker and clamp when leaving parts for a week (I only generally work on weekends). More drawer sides, with wood for fronts and and backs (Tasmanian Oak) ...



In my experience, the inner tensions relax. I've not experience cracking and done this for some decades. If I run out of a flat surface, parts get piled on a cart. Here are Jarrah cabinet sides with stickers and clamps ..



Regards from Perth

Derek

[Mark Rainey]

thanks Derek!

[Rod Sheridan]

OK, thanks Jim, I suppose stickering is mostly for moisture equalization & drying, but can you understand my concern about stickering thin drawer sides on an uneven surface that might introduce twist?

I stand them on edge, I don't use stickers.

Of course I once also replicated the domino effect by bumping into them

Regards, Rod.