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Thread: Circular saw preferences

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Marina del Rey, Ca
    Posts
    1,934
    Of all my power tool brands Makita has been the most disappointing.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    So Cal
    Posts
    3,739
    My favorite sidewinder circular saw was the Porter Cable Saw Boss.
    They don’t make them anymore. I wish they would it was a great saw.
    Aj

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Eastern KS
    Posts
    406
    You can find them on eBay somewhat regularly. Condition and cost varies. I’ve picked up a few in great condition at around 175-200

  4. #19
    I'm in favor of the top of the line Dewalt 7 1/4. The one that has adjustment so you can set blade parallel to edge of the base. I've owned this type saw for years, first as a B&D Super Sawcats, and then as a Dewalt. Same basic saw, just different colors.

  5. Makita, DeWalt, Porter Cable - all corded with different blades so I can "grab and go" I like them all. I do use edge guides and yes the saw can wander.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Doylestown, PA
    Posts
    7,551
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Berklich View Post
    Makita, DeWalt, Porter Cable - all corded with different blades so I can "grab and go" I like them all. I do use edge guides and yes the saw can wander.
    I use a P-C 314 on a 'saw board' - 1/8" hardboard with straight aluminum guide for sheet goods. It works very well with a Freud blade. I think one of the factors that make it work well is that the P-C 314 has a base that is quite a bit longer from front to back than it is side to side. There's virtually no tendency for the saw to go cockeyed (leave contact with the guide). I doubt that would be as true for the typical 'sidewinder' where the base is wider than it is long. I suspect worm drive saws would be similar to the P-C 314 but have never used one.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Westchester County NY
    Posts
    90
    I've used the Makita and Skillsaw worm drive saws and they are both nice. I think though if you can save up for a
    track saw that would be handier for fine woodworking.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    1,592
    I agree with the advice on tracksaws IF you aren’t going to do a lot of cutting 2x4s. If 50% of your cuts will be in dimensional lumber , a traditional tracksaw is going to be annoying unless you set up some sort of cutting station. In which case you might as well have a miterstation or radial arm saw.

    If you want a quality saw, Dewalt , Makita and Milwaukee usually get the nod from pro framers. Depends on feel to the individual.

    Based on on what you’ve told us, I think you should look long and hard at the compact Ridgid.

    https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-F...3204/205076385

    under a hundred bucks it’s plenty powerful and has a long cord. Magniusm casing makes it one of the lightest saws around without sacrificing power or toughness. Being smaller means you wouldn’t be able to gang cut 2x’s but it’ll easily put a bevel cut on a 2x8 or 10 for a rafter. That smallness is advantageous inside a small shop though.
    Last edited by Dave Sabo; 08-19-2018 at 11:19 PM.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Highland MI
    Posts
    4,511
    Blog Entries
    11
    I have an old DeWalt SawCat. I can't remember the last time I needed it in my shop. A circ saw is for general carpentry, not wood working. As others have said, get a track saw and don't look back. I have a Grizzly and it gets used ten times more than my old circ saw ever got used. And in a pinch, it will cut dimensional lumber too.
    NOW you tell me...

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Central Michigan
    Posts
    1,508
    Richard Poitras
    Central, Michigan....
    01-02-2006


  11. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    2,758
    Here's a real safety item to look for.

    We all sometimes start a cut while holding open the blade guard. This is safer with some saws. What to look for?

    Hold the guard open with your left thumb. Can you also get a good grip on the front handle? If not and the saw jumps your left hand may not move with the saw putting it at risk.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    6,983
    I love my Makita cordless track saw.
    I also have a Festool TS55EQ.

    Since getting the Makita cordless, the Festool has sat unused in it's Systainer.

    Once my grandson figures out exactly which one of the trades he's going to make a career out of, I either give the Festool to him or sell it.

    Nothing beats the handiness of the cordless track saw. I've done three projects now with mine - all on a single charge of the batteries.

    What I like most about it is being able to cut down sheet good right at the yard &/or store, to the exact size I need for my project. It makes transport, unloading and storage a snap now instead of a back breaking chore.
    My granddad always said, :As one door closes, another opens".
    Wonderful man, terrible cabinet maker...

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Eastern KS
    Posts
    406
    That looks damn handy. Do you have personal experience with it?

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    LA & SC neither one is Cali
    Posts
    9,447
    Quote Originally Posted by Rich Engelhardt View Post

    Since getting the Makita cordless, the Festool has sat unused in it's Systainer.
    I am oddly the opposite, the only time I use my battery powered TS is when I break down sheet goods outside. IN the shop I almost always use my TS75 because I always have a dust collection hose hooked to it and so I have to deal with a tail one way or another. Once in a while, I will grab the cordless indoors if it has the right blade and the bigger saw does not.
    Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.

    Deep thought for the day:

    Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.

  15. #30
    I apologize for how long it took me to get back here after so many people were kind and generous enough to share their thoughts and experience.

    I did get a saw.

    I went to Lowes and Home Depot and picked up every saw they had on the floor.
    Compared specs as best my feeble little brain could figure.
    I would have liked to hold a Milwaukee but neither had a corded one on display.

    For my needs, I didn't need a track saw although they would be nice and, probably help me do better.

    Price wasn't a major consideration except that I didn't want to spend $150 or more.

    Plenty of choices below that.
    I looked at warranty.

    I ended up getting a Kobalt and, so far, I am very happy with it.
    It came with a 5 yr. warranty, had the fastest RPMs that I saw, (Don't know if that makes a difference)
    It didn't hurt that it was $79 and not $119.

    I have a Kreg rip cut guide and a clamp guide set up for cutting horizontally.

    I appreciate all your input and apologize again for not posting earlier.

    Life gets complicated and cuts into shop time.

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