For a Shop use saw my favorite is a porter cable sawboss model 345. It’s no longer made but you can pick them up on eBay for 130-200 depending on conditions and timing
For a Shop use saw my favorite is a porter cable sawboss model 345. It’s no longer made but you can pick them up on eBay for 130-200 depending on conditions and timing
OP has closed the deal, but for the others looking at this thread, the new main brand cordless circ saws today are nothing like those of 5 years ago. Many have as much power as a corded saw and huge run time with the new bigger batteries. DeWalt, Milwaukee and Makita all offer pro level battery saws. All but one old time framer on my son's recent house build used Lithium battery saws, mostly DeWalt Flexvolt. Including worm drives. But if it is just for occasional shop use, corded is probably the way to go. Unless you already have compatible batteries for your other cordless tools. But as I earlier stated, just go with a tracksaw unless you are dealing with a lot of 2x lumber.
I do have a cordless circ saw, a 15 year old 14 volt Ryobi. Worked ok for cutting paneling, but that was about it. Haven't touched it in 14 years.
Last edited by Ole Anderson; 11-08-2018 at 8:29 AM.
NOW you tell me...
Good to hear you found a saw that works for you. I read with interest because just yesterday I was looking for space in my shop. I will be parting ways with a number beloved tool I seldom/never use these days.
My 40-50 year old 8" PC and maybe even the new (20 yr old) 7 1/4 Craftsman among them. I have not plugged in either for more than 5 years. I've been using 2 Makita 18v saws. One is a 7 1/4 and the other 5 3/8 metal cutting saw. Couldn't imagine needing a corded saw unless I find a way to turn back the clock a few decades and find my way in to some heavy construction.
I'm revisiting this to see if I can, unashamedly, ask your thoughts again.
I am happy with the saw I got but I didn't address some important issues very well.
Breaking down sheet goods being the biggest that I've come across.
I have a very small shop which adds to difficulties.
I made a sacrificial cutting rack but need to take it outside and winter is about here.
I use a Kreg Rip Cut for ripping and a clamping guide for cross cuts.
I've been finding that I'm deviating at the end of the cuts and not getting true cuts the whole distance.
At the cost of plywood, I don't want to mess too many sheets up before I can justify spending a little money on a better set up.
I have become enamored with the idea of a vertical panel saw.
One of those would address my space problems as well as my accuracy and I wouldn't have to drag my horses outside in bad weather and drag this rack.
And then put it away.
But the factory made ones are way out of my reach.
I have been scouring the source of all knowledge, YouTube, and found several relatively inexpensive solutions.
Woodsmith has a pretty neat one here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O9iAnUJxhW0&t=3s
It's a sliding carriage vertical saw.
I did buy the plans.
Another is this one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVubVWzgm_s
And a real Redneck solution here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D6B4peRQgL0&t=77s
Any thought, input and advice are greatly appreciated
Note that you can get left and right-handed saws.
Most handheld saws have the motor to the left of the blade. This is great if you are right handed and hold the wood with your non-dominant hand. But If you are left handed, it can be awkward. It's also awkward if you are right handed and cutting plywood.
I am right handed. I have two saws. I use the one with the motor on the left for construction type cutting. For cutting plywood against a straight guide, I use one with the motor on the right. This allows me to more comfortably hold the saw against the guide with my right hand.
I keep the right-motored saw with a plywood blade. I keep the left-motored saw with a courser construction type blade.
A left hander would do the exact opposite.
Given the time to build and tune, cost and space for a vertical panel saw I would be looking hard at a track saw. I wouldn't trade my track saws for anything but a high-end panel saw.
Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.
Deep thought for the day:
Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.
Thanks, Roger and Van.
Hadn't considered right and left hand motors.
Van, I get your points on time to build and tune but a track saw wouldn't address my space issues.
I have length in my shop but pretty narrow.
My thought, which could be way off, is to keep it to the side against my longest wall which is 12'+
Right now, that's where I'm keeping the little bit of plywood I have
For years I used a Hitachi saw with a homemade folding table to cut up sheet goods into smaller panels and then cutting on the table saw. This worked fine until the saw quit and I needed another. For years I balked at the price of any Festool products. I told myself there's just no way they are that much better- I was wrong. I bought the Festool 55reg with the track and still marvel at the build quality every time I use it. The saw is just a pleasure to use. Easy to adjust, great dust control, light weight, there is just nothing bad about it. I've since invested heavily in Festool and although the amount of money I've laid out is disconcerting the pleasure I get using each tool is well worth it to me. If you can find someone local who will let you make a few cuts you will be a convert.
Thanks for that info, Joe.
I'm not opposed to track saws or stuff like that
I just don't have room in my shop to cut a 4'X8' piece of plywood on the flat.
It's that narrow
I agree with Van. My old Craftsman circular saw recently died, did some research and ended up with the Makita 5007 MGA. I'm very happy with it.
My shop is 9' wide.
So would a vertical rack to hold the goods with a long track and a second one for vertical that can be clamped in place as needed work for you? Quicker and easier to setup plus you can still use the track saws on horses when needed.
& the fact your shop is only 9' wide.Breaking down sheet goods being the biggest that I've come across.
Again, I go back to the cordless track saw. I use my Makita to cut 4x8 sheets down to finished size right in the parking lot of the store where I buy it.
I made a "cutting table" out of two 4' long sections of 2x4's that are hinged together so the open up to 8' long. I drilled four - 3/4" diameter holes in them.
In those holes, I insert 8 of these guys ( the Veritas thingies everyone made fun of that I find immensely useful). Into those, I stick two 1x4x7' boards.
I can set that rig up on top of one of those flat lumber carts they have at the Borg - or - I can stick that rig on a couple of folding plastic saw horses.
(weather permitting - I'll try to set it up in the driveway and take some pictures of it)
The biggest problem with those shop made panel saws is - - accuracy of the cut(s). By that I mean, since they have no zero clearance capability as such, they leave a splintered rough edge that needs trimmed.
High end track saws rival top shelf table saws with top shelf fences. With either my Makita or my Festool - there's no need to "touch up" anything they cut on the table saw.
& plus 1 to everything Joe said - even though I haven't used my Festool since I got the cordless Makita.
Last edited by Rich Engelhardt; 11-27-2018 at 6:09 AM.
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon
Peter, that probably is my solution.
Although those panel saws, even the home made are pretty neat, It's probably overkill.
I'm contemplating a rolling plywood cart.
Maybe one side for storage and one side for cutting vertically, as you suggest.
Do you have a track that you recommend for 8' cuts?
Or choke it down and buy a track saw and track kit?
Rich, we have 3" of snow today.
Carrying horses and stuff to the lumber yard and cutting there doesn't seem a lot better than dragging my cutting rack outside at home.
I appreciate the suggestion.
But, would love to see the picture in case I'm misunderstanding.