Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 27 of 27

Thread: bed frame question

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Southwestern CT
    Posts
    1,392
    Plywood (slats at least) is really not the right choice if alternatives are available.
    The flex is far greater than a similarly dimensioned hardwood.
    Try using Woodweb's "Sagulator" to calculate an appropriate slat.
    https://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/
    "the mechanic that would perfect his work must first sharpen his tools.” Confucius

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Marshall, Michigan
    Posts
    204
    Blog Entries
    1
    Just a thought about those 7 inch side rails. My bed is a converted water bed frame that has high side rails like all the water beds used to. It is a ROYAL PAIN to put on fitted sheets on this thing. I should have cut the sides down years ago.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Swampscott, MA
    Posts
    120
    thanks for all of the comments, I think I have a few options that will work. I've built 2 twin size frames before that didn't require much concern about the slats - should have spent more time in the "planning phase" for this queen size frame

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,827
    I would personally do a center support and shorter slats (or a center support with a plywood deck if that's the preference) for a Queen bed just as I would for a King. Even my daughter's Ikea queen bed is built that way to help distribute the load evenly. I also personally prefer slats because of how they breath, but there's nothing wrong with plywood as long as the specific mattress is ok to use on a solid deck as Brian mentions.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #20
    Even though my previous post was long I forgot to comment on center support. I've never used it on any bed I built. The bed I sleep on currently has a box spring that is supported by slats with a center leg. If you find the sag to be too much, a center support can easily be added later. That has always been my plan and I've never found it necessary to add it (but if I were to sleep with a wife on the double bed with baltic birch slats, I would add some center legs).

    I think it is OK for the mattress to be on a platform with very little flexing but it is then effectively a firmer mattress. Said another way, boxed springs flex. So if you are trying to have the same firmness in the mattress as you have with a boxed spring, you have to let the slats flex some.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,827
    A box spring generally has a rigid frame which provides some level of structural support to the mattress and bed in general. Going with slats or a plywood platform means one has to consider the support aspect in a similar way since a mattress by itself is "really flexible", no matter what the type.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Princeton, NJ
    Posts
    7,293
    Blog Entries
    7
    Here is what I’ve done for these. This assembly is very strong. The center supports are bridle joints, I join them that way so that they are sturdy enough to handle some bumps if the bed is dragged by someone. It’s not supposed to be moved that way, but expecting the unexpected is worthwhile.

    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    441
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Dwight View Post
    I think it is OK for the mattress to be on a platform with very little flexing but it is then effectively a firmer mattress. Said another way, boxed springs flex. So if you are trying to have the same firmness in the mattress as you have with a boxed spring, you have to let the slats flex some.
    Box springs of late do not employ any springs. They are essentially a platform to be used with bed frames that were designed for "box springs".

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,827
    Quote Originally Posted by Sean Nagle View Post
    Box springs of late do not employ any springs. They are essentially a platform to be used with bed frames that were designed for "box springs".
    Agree....and are more often than not now referred to as "foundation".
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Westchester County NY
    Posts
    90
    Make T or L style ribs and you can avoid a center support. Also makes assembly easy.

    With a 7 inch side rail it should be able to hold a rabbeted slat sitting on a ledger and a vertically orientated rib that will support slat. Just make sure the side rail has a really beefy joinery where it connects to the post. Might also be better to iuse slightly thicker material than 1 1/4.

  11. #26
    This is what I use to join the rails to the posts:

    https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Wrought.../dp/B001DT17QI

    It's a bit fussy to inlet but very strong. Totally hidden when the bed is set up. I works fine in a rail 1 1/4 wide - or even a bit narrower.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Swampscott, MA
    Posts
    120
    I finished the bed in question on SAT night, just in time for yesterday's move in. Due to "schedule constraints" I wasn't able to get to my usual wood supplier so ended up milling the slats from HD dimensional lumber, and added the "rib" in a dado in the back after watching Charles Neil's video. The rib significantly improved the stiffness of the slats, and I used 8 of them which is probably overkill. My daughter likes the bed and says it's very comfortable

    Thanks for all of the suggestions!

    IMG_0141.jpgIMG_0143.jpg

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •