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Thread: What to look for in used hand planes

  1. #1
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    What to look for in used hand planes

    I'm out to get my first hand plane but I would like some advise on what I should be looking for in used hand planes. Basically I was wondering if there is a way to tell if the iron is any good.

    Thanks
    Jim
    Last edited by Lee Schierer; 08-15-2018 at 9:56 PM. Reason: fixed the title

  2. #2
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    Most of the older plane irons are pretty good in terms of steel quality. Newer stuff (say 1950s and later) can be on the soft side but mostly are still usable.

    Condition of the iron is more important. If you can see the back of the iron, try to find one with zero or minimal pitting near the cutting edge. You'll need to get rid of any pitting in the area say 1/2" back from the edge, so you'll save yourself a lot of work by finding a clean iron. Same goes for the chipbreaker, look for on in decent shape.

  3. #3
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    Look for cracks in the casting and in the tote. Antique stores like to cover them with price tags. If you’re a rust hunter, surface rust can be fixed but deep pits are problematic. Look for a pit free iron. Better yet, find one with pits and use that for leverage to get a lower price. Order a Hock replacement iron and you’ll get a clean start. My users are Hock equipped and it made a big difference.
    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

  4. #4
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    I may be outrunning my knowledge some here with my limited experience with rehabbing a few used Stanley planes, but I almost think that the iron is closer to the least important part of when considering a used plane purchase. Given the availability of replacement irons, I would tend to worry more about the cap iron (as Robert says), the utility of the blade skew mechanism and the condition/action of the frog and its adjustment. Of course, a general look at the body of the plane to see if it exhibits any gross twist/kink/bend/crack/etc plus the avoidance of deep pitting that would have to be addressed i
    s the first step for me.
    David

  5. #5
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    The only things I look for in a vintage plane are cracks or warps/dents (less common) in the casting. Totes and knobs can be fixed/made and are not a big deal. Rust in the casting is fine, even some pitting on the sole is ok so long as you can get it flat over the entire length. Hanging holes drilled in the bed are ugly, but do not usually affect the useability of the plane.

    I don't worry about blades because I have a ton of extras, but if you don't, look for blade life left, and void pitted backs. Also look at the cap iron and make sure it meets the back across the entire length, especially at the edges, otherwise shavings will clog up there.

    I mostly stick to the US made stanleys/Unions/Sargents, pre-WWII (though if you put work into them some of the later heavy english castings can be fine planes), or the older english Records. IMO dont bother with the magenta or blue painted bed baileys, or the ones with stamped yolks and lateral adjust levers - keep looking as the older planes are quite easy to find, and much much better in quality.

  6. #6
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    Also, keep an eye out for one maker..
    DSCF0006.JPG
    Millers Falls also made some very good planes...

  7. #7
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    In the Neanderthal wisdom/FAQs:

    https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....al-wisdom-FAQs

    are a coulple of old posts on this subject.

    First is Getting Started:

    https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....th-Hand-Planes

    There is also a what to look for post:

    https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....gs-to-Look-For

    In the first link above there are also other helpful posts on planes you may want to read.

    In my earlier days of endless pursuit of every plane available, my take along kit included a screw driver, a magnifier and a small piece of sandpaper.

    My preference is for Stanley/Bailey planes. Though a few others have come home with me, my preference is to have planes mostly from one maker so the parts are somewhat interchangeable.

    Were you thinking of a particular size or use?

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  8. #8
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    https://www.fine-tools.com/eisen.html

    Visit this site for Hock plane irons and breakers.
    Also I have Lee Valley irons and breakers in my Bedrock planes.

  9. #9
    As mentioned, check carefully for cracks in the casting, particularly around the mouth. Also check the mouth to make sure there are no chips out of it. I usually take a straight edge with me to check the sole, but you can get a decent idea of sole flatness by placing the plane on a flat surface and checking to see if it rocks. If it does, don't buy. HTH

  10. #10
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    Thanks for all the input. I went to eBay and started a search for a "Stanley low angle block plane". YIIKES, there are ten million of them and I was overwhelmed with all the different numbers. Can you guys please tell me or refer me somewhere that explains the numbers that follow the manufacturers name but precede the "block plane". Also, what's the difference between an "adjustable throat plate" and "adjustable mouth"?

  11. #11
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    Patrick Leach, his Blood & Gore site, has info on all things Stanley plane....

  12. #12
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    If you had followed the links in my post above you would have found Patrick Leach's site:

    http://www.supertool.com

    This is the starting page. When you get to the page starting the Blood & Gore is where you may want to bookmark it.

    Also note that on the dimension for the width it is the blade width.

    He doesn't cover planes made after Stanley started giving them numbers like 12-060, so a lot of the more modern numbers are not covered. IMO, they are not really worth the trouble.

    jtk
    Last edited by Jim Koepke; 08-17-2018 at 1:46 PM. Reason: When you get to the page starting…
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  13. #13
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    I did follow your links and when I tried to open the Blood and Gore link I got and error message so I just moved on. I will try it again today.

    Jim

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Colombo View Post
    I did follow your links and when I tried to open the Blood and Gore link I got and error message so I just moved on. I will try it again today.

    Jim
    Sometimes servers go down or the URL gets mangled in the hand off through the internet.

    Mr. Leach also has a monthly email of tools for sale. This is a great source of information as he has thoughtful and usually well written descriptions of the tools and their uses along with images. Look for it on his site and sign up to start getting it if you want to learn more about various tools, even if you are not going to buy anything.

    jtk
    Last edited by Jim Koepke; 08-17-2018 at 1:50 PM. Reason: Mr. Leach also has a monthly email…
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  15. #15
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    can also access B&G through Hyperkitten web site....

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