I don't use Waterlox a lot ... but I did use it for my shop floor (just three coats) and it has held up incredibly well. So I would think it might end up being appropriate for a "working finish." (if that is any consolation)
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I don't use Waterlox a lot ... but I did use it for my shop floor (just three coats) and it has held up incredibly well. So I would think it might end up being appropriate for a "working finish." (if that is any consolation)
"the mechanic that would perfect his work must first sharpen his tools.” Confucius
Originally Posted by Connie Dobbins
I know we clarify this frequently but, for the sake of this thread; "100% Tung Oil" is tung oil while a "Tung Oil Finish" is an oil/varnish blend. These are two very different animals.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
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Connie, thank you for this thread. It was interesting to read the comments about apply Waterlox, a finish I've also never used before. And, after reading the posts I doubt if I will ever try to use Waterlox as it seems to be a very time intensive, labor intensive, knowledge intensive, and experience intensive finishing process.
Patrick, those are indeed beautiful finishes shown in post #8.
On a few occasions in the past I've thought of trying a Waterlox finish, but the information I read about applying it, and the responses noted above, have reaffirmed for me to not using it. Frankly , I just don't have the patience to spend that amount of time on a finish and especially having a limited amount of finishing experience to begin with. To demonstrate this please explain what you meant by "Then vacuumed tack with the back of my hand", as I don't know what you meant by that. Could it simply be that you vacuumed the sanding dust and then used a tack cloth to complete the removal of any residual dust?
Thoughts entering one's mind need not exit one's mouth!
As I age my memory fades .... and that's a load off my mind!
"We Live In The Land Of The Free, Only Because Of The Brave"
“The problems we face today are there because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by those who vote for a living."
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery." Winston Churchill
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A tack cloth is a sticky she'd resistant rag.
In my experience a vacume with a clean nozzle that does not shed coupled with wiping with the back of your hand then vaviming the dust off your hand in between each pass of your hand is far superior to a tack cloth.
Our hands have all kinds of nerve endings that become obscured when a rag is out between them and the substrate.
I have seen Waterlox used are hardweoid floors many many time with much better success than oil or water based Polly.
Contributor
Waterlox is as easy to use as I have found any varnish to be. It flows out perfectly and cures well. I think most put on too thick of a coat instead of multiple thin ones. I apply several coats with a towel and stop when it looks even. Then I sand very lightly and all one or two more. Sometimes I brush on a thicker coat to speed up the process. It’s worth every cent in my book.
Dan
Contributor
Well I must way I hope those getting scared off of trying Waterlox ( or any Wiping varnish) for finishing their projects will please reconsider. If used incorrectly or without understanding any finishing product can become a problem. Varnish is no different and Waterlox is simply a varnish.
Firstly to Connie. I agree with those saying that perhaps you sanded your finish before it dried enough to become hard enough to sand. Since it was still gummy you got those streaks you mentioned. But as you have now seen another coat of wiping varnish( in this case waterlox original ) and the new coat covers up the last one leaving a nice new layer of finish Connie I use several types of finishes depending on the location and use of the piece I am making. For those locations that will take lot of abuse and especially near water Waterlox is my first choice. Counter tops is exactly where I would use waterlox. One thing I would say is if using near a sink, just make sure you put enough coats to build enough protection as you don't want the water getting to the wood.
Wiping varnishes are one of the easiest finishes to apply in a home shop that does not require spray equipment. And I don't find it takes too long to complete a piece with how I use it.
I would say it takes me no more than about 3 to 4 days to apply a wiping varnish finish to a work piece. But might be 5-6 if doing something like a counter top. Then I'll leave it alone for a week or more to allow full cure before rubbing out the finish. and its done.
If you search "Pekovich the last finish you'll ever need" with google you'll find a pdf link to the best article I've found on how to use wiping varnishes. Here also is youtube who shows how worry free using this stuff can be. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IFrXqQ0QnE
For the record I also love to use shellac, and oil varnish blends depending on the application. As well, I have actually started making my own wiping varnishes. Simply buy a varnish you like and mix 50/50 with mineral spirits. I like Pratt and lambert #38.Its a very clear and hard varnish. But for counters and wet locations I would still go waterlox.
Last edited by joel cervera; 08-21-2018 at 7:53 PM.
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Joel, you might have given me new hope about using Waterlox. I've used Minwax Wipe-On Poly quite a few times and really like it, usually with 3-4 thin coats with overnight drying for each coat. I like it because it avoids runs, etc. despite having to use several coats to build up to a durable thickness, while providing a nice finish. If Waterlox is as easy as portrayed in the video, which is so much like Wipe-On Poly I may just give it a try when I need a clear, durable finish. It would be interesting to see how Waterlox compares to Wipe-On Poly, especially the durability. Do you have a feel for which is more durable?
Thoughts entering one's mind need not exit one's mouth!
As I age my memory fades .... and that's a load off my mind!
"We Live In The Land Of The Free, Only Because Of The Brave"
“The problems we face today are there because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by those who vote for a living."
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery." Winston Churchill
Member
It is true that Tung Oil Finishes aren't pure tung oil. BUT, only some of the products labeled Tung Oil Finish are oil/varnish blends. One of the most visible products is Formby's Tung Oil Finish which is actually varnish. Its not a mix with oil, the only oil is that used as an ingredient going into the chemical process which turns the oil and resin into varnish.
Contributor
Al. Can’t truly comment as I’ve never used wipe on poly. But poly is supposed to be very durable as you may know. I’ve heard it’s main drawback can be its appearance. I’ve found Waterlox to be very durable. I think it has been used for wood floors in school gyms? And it is a very nice looking finish IMO.
Don’t forget making your own 50/50 wipe on varnish/ mineral spirits. Another great option!
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i use waterlox all the time its a joy to use. everyone has their own method but i deff dont wait days between coats. i guess dependign on where you are in the country you can put a coat or two a day. i normally do 12-24 hrs between coats. the key is just making sure you go over everything with a tack cloth to make sure theres no lint or dust on the surface. i use a foam brush for the first couple coats and then go to a lint free towel for the final coat or two. my finish always comes out beautiful.
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