Justifying A Major Tool Purchase

[Rod Sheridan]

I use a combination square adjusted to the correct setting for the table extensions (If memory serves me it's 17mm).

That way when the customer adds an extension table they're in the right area..............Rod.

[Julie Moriarty]

Took these pictures during unpacking in the event anyone was interested

This is after the paper was removed but before any cleaning. No gunked up metal. I later cleaned the jointer and planer beds with Felder Metal Glanz.








Since Greg has had so many problems with his, I decided to do a basic check before doing anything else. I took a short piece of pine that had a good jointed edge and ran it across each insert over the jointer bed then raised the bed to see the results.

They seemed to all shave the wood about the same. Once firmly seated on the outfeed side of the jointer bed, the inserts all seemed to just skim the pine. So it looks like the cutterblock is correctly aligned with the jointer bed.

[Steve Jenkins]

Looking good. That’s a great looking machine. I know you’ll love it. The difference between that planer and the dewalt is like a tricycle and a car. Have fun

[Clint Baxter]

We have now gone mobile. Cue The Who.
I need some cool down time before I get to the final unwrapping. And maybe a mini split to bring the temps down to an average Chicago winter day.

Have to laugh at your last statement. We’re looking at a high today of 46 degrees. Only got down to 40 this morning so not too bad for our neck of the woods. A little early for these type temps, but not totally unexpected.

Good to see you’ve gotten yer baby unloaded. Just waiting to see the results after it chews up and spits out the pieces that brought your Dewalt to its knees.

Clint

[Dave Cav]

I don't know if you saw it, but there was a big bright sticker on it that said, "DO NOT DOUBLE STACK PALLETS" Back in the early 70s I worked as a receiving clerk and never remember stacking pallets like that. Whoever loaded the crate on the pallet just set it there. No nails or anything to secure it.

I had a PM 180 shipped to me some years ago. It was delivered via liftgate. When I got it on the floor of the shop I realized there were two pallets under it. Apparently the shippers smashed the first pallet and just sat it down on top of the second pallet. It took most of a morning and VERY careful work with a jack, prybar, blocking and a Sawzall to get the 1300 pounds of planer down on solid concrete.

That J/P looks very nice. Good job on the rigging. I'm looking forward to seeing the setup and first cuts.

[Julie Moriarty]

The instructions say the rail for the fence must be mounted EXACTLY 17mm below the jointer table. (Then why didn't they make the holes EXACTLY positioned?) I used the Betterly Uni-Gauge to make sure both sides were positioned identically.




Then I checked the fence for square and it was right on.


Moving the fence around I noticed you can't position it too far back. It creates too much slop. Personally, I think the Unifence rail on my Delta table saw is a better design than the Hammer rail. It slides easier and is dead on accurate.

Looking at the outfeed side of the planer bed, I know I'm going to have to have something there. But the Hammer extensions are crazy expensive for just another 15". It's almost $17 an inch. I'm trying to come up with something else. Wish I still had my TIG welder...

[Rod Sheridan]

Julie, the fence will position to the rear of the table.

I normally set the mounting bar as far from the front as possible, sorry I forgot to tell you that.......Rod.

[Julie Moriarty]

Julie, the fence will position to the rear of the table.

I normally set the mounting bar as far from the front as possible, sorry I forgot to tell you that.......Rod.

It's not the rail (mounting bar) that's the problem. It's the supports under the fence that fall off the jointer table when the fence is moved too far. I have to pick up the entire fence to get it back on plane. I'll take some pictures later to show you.

[Greg Parrish]

It's not the rail (mounting bar) that's the problem. It's the supports under the fence that fall off the jointer table when the fence is moved too far. I have to pick up the entire fence to get it back on plane. I'll take some pictures later to show you.

Im lost on what you mean. My fence will slide all the way back until the center support bolt won’t let it go any further. The right edge of the rail end of the fence does extend beyond the rail but haven’t had any issue getting it to clamp tight. That said I may see if there is room to move the rail over to the right (towards back) as I think Rod was indicating.

[Julie Moriarty]

Im lost on what you mean. My fence will slide all the way back until the center support bolt won’t let it go any further. The right edge of the rail end of the fence does extend beyond the rail but haven’t had any issue getting it to clamp tight. That said I may see if there is room to move the rail over to the right (towards back) as I think Rod was indicating.

As I slide the fence back, there are two plastic washers on the bottom that, once they clear the jointer table, sort of fall off plane.

This is what the fence looks like at the outfeed end when it's all the way back (left) and when the washers are sitting on the bed (right). Sorry it's out of focus.
fence_dip.jpg

These are the washers I'm talking about
fence_grommets.jpg

Once they clear the table bed, the whole fence angles back. I can tighten the fence but it's out of square. I have to hold up the back end up and check it with a square then tighten it. When I slide it back onto the table, I have to lift up the far end so the washers clear and land back on the table.

[Julie Moriarty]

Though I was dead tired, I had to finish the wiring and see how it runs. I tried to open the lockout box but they have a cover over one of the screws you have to break off to get at the screw. So I went out and picked up a Bell box and some other stuff. After looking at the possible locations for the box, I settled on the mobile frame.

This gave me a chance to ground the mobile base to the machine. The wire coming from the machine looked like #12 to me. I was expecting #14.

It's lower than I wanted but the length of the cord coming out of the lockout box limited my choices.


Done. I'll probably take a ty-wrap to get the cord off the floor.


I turn on the breaker. Check to make sure the voltage is good - 240.1v. And go to plug it in. That's when I hear myself asking, "Why did you let the Home Depot guy pick out the plug and receptacle?!?! You should have double checked him!" Yep, they don't match. We need a hair pull out emoticon.

[Brian Holcombe]

Neat and clean! I can't stand the twist locks from Legrand, even Leviton has a nice click to it. Hubbell ruined me however, I'm only using them going forward.

Anymore when I order a machine I go straight to McMaster's website or Amazon and just order every odd and end that I know I will need so that they're all there on game day. I try to avoid turning the day into 100 trips to the BORG if it can be at all avoided.

[Dave Cav]

Though I was dead tired, I had to finish the wiring and see how it runs.......That's when I hear myself asking, "Why did you let the Home Depot guy pick out the plug and receptacle?!?!

My Home Depot is open until 10:00 PM....

Very clean wiring job. Looks like you might have done that before.

[Matt Mattingley]

Julie did you use SJOOW or SOOW? Are you using L6–20 twist lock and receptacle? Or what twist lock receptacle did the HD guy sell you? I believe this is a 4 hp motor. Is the plug twist lock and receptacle rated for 4 hp? Or Do you care???

Personally I am OK with bending the occasional rule here and there electrically. But if you’re having this inspected... I wouldn’t have the machine hooked up.

Machines have been getting bigger and bigger in horsepower and in voltage for the DIY home shop. The problem is, at a certain point industrial standards start taking place. I’m not one to preach because I’ve bent almost every rule in the book safely. But sometimes safely doesn’t conform.

Edit; almost anything horse power related over 3hp, single phase should be hardwired with a disconnect.
I’m not in an electrical engineer... or even electrician. So take anything I say electrically with a grain of salt.

Just be safe!

This is where all the electricians , Industrial electricians, technologists and E engineers get to put their two cents. Maybe different C of Q’s have different opinions. I would like to see these opinions if they differ from Hubbell.

[brent stanley]

Julie did you use SJOOW or SOOW? Are you using L6–20 twist lock and receptacle? Or what twist lock receptacle did the HD guy sell you? I believe this is a 4 hp motor. Is the plug twist lock and receptacle rated for 4 hp? Or Do you care???

Personally I am OK with bending the occasional rule here and there electrically. But if you’re having this inspected... I wouldn’t have the machine hooked up.

Machines have been getting bigger and bigger in horsepower and in voltage for the DIY home shop. The problem is, at a certain point industrial standards start taking place. I’m not one to preach because I’ve bent almost every rule in the book safely. But sometimes safely doesn’t conform.

Edit; almost anything horse power related over 3hp, single phase should be hardwired with a disconnect.
I’m not in an electrical engineer... or even electrician. So take anything I say electrically with a grain of salt.

Just be safe!

This is where all the electricians , Industrial electricians, technologists and E engineers get to put their two cents. Maybe different C of Q’s have different opinions. I would like to see these opinions if they differ from Hubbell.

I believe Julie is an angry pixie wrangler Matt.