Justifying A Major Tool Purchase

[ChrisA Edwards]

Sorry Julie, thought I'd sent you that one, maybe I got it later than the others.

Anyway, I just emailed it to you.

If anyone wants the .pdf manuals that I have, pm me your email address and I'll send them on.

[ChrisA Edwards]

I've haven't powered up the machine yet, but first check of the tables and cutter head, it appears that it was delivered setup with less than .001" variance across the width of the table.

[Ben Rivel]

Mine is still sitting in the garage on the pallet. Need to make the mobile base before I can attempt to figure out how to get it onto it. Was thinking about using an engine hoist.

[Vince Shriver]

Some years ago, we were tasked with digging up and moving a gasoline tank - the kind that holds product for gas stations. As you can imagine, it was huge, heavy and very awkward. For safety reasons, we were required to fill a part of it with dry ice. Anyway, once this beast was out of its hole and on level ground, we stabilized it so it wouldn't just roll any which way, and then proceeded to move it to an area where we could pick it up with a crane. We were able to do so by using exactly the same method described above - surprisingly efficient.

[Rod Sheridan]

Mine is still sitting in the garage on the pallet. Need to make the mobile base before I can attempt to figure out how to get it onto it. Was thinking about using an engine hoist.

Ben, I would use the factory mobility kit, or if it moves in the wrong plane, I would drill new axle holes.

That way you don't have to lift it, just pry it up an inch with a bar, put a block of wood under and put the mobility kit on.........Rod.

[ChrisA Edwards]

I originally bought the Hammer Mobility Kit, but for my limited space, I like to store my tools with the narrow side closest to the wall, so I cancelled the mobile base. I didn't think moving the unit broadside would be all that convenient. As you can see in the video, below, I would not hav been able to move the unit between my bench and table saw with the Hammer mobility kit.

I bought the Bora Portamate 3500 ($129) from Amazon versus $200 for the Hammer Kit.

I placed a piece of 3/4" plywood on the Portamate before putting the A3-31 on it. It didn't really need it, but I did it anyway.

I have a smooth garage floor and the unit is very maneuverable.

[Ben Rivel]

Ben, I would use the factory mobility kit, or if it moves in the wrong plane, I would drill new axle holes.

That way you don't have to lift it, just pry it up an inch with a bar, put a block of wood under and put the mobility kit on.........Rod.

I dont like the factory mobility kit offered by Hammer at all. I built a MUCH nicer option for my N4400 and am doing the same for the A3-31. I need the ability to turn/move/rotate at any angle in my shop and I also like having the height of the tables raised. This is what Ive designed and will be building for the A3-31:

Hammer A3-31 Mobile Base w Levelers 2.jpg

[brent stanley]

I dont like the factory mobility kit offered by Hammer at all. I built a MUCH nicer option for my N4400 and am doing the same for the A3-31. I need the ability to turn/move/rotate at any angle in my shop and I also like having the height of the tables raised. This is what Ive designed and will be building for the A3-31:

Hammer A3-31 Mobile Base w Levelers 2.jpg

I'm with you, that's the style I build as well. My shop is really small so I sometimes have to plane long items by shooting it out the door, but the best position for the planer is elsewhere otherwise and it's easy to spin it on a dime after moving it. I make sure at least two have locks on them too!

[ChrisA Edwards]

Got my extension cord from Amazon, so it was time to test the new toy (A3-31). I checked the machine and mobile base with an electrical tester to make sure my wiring was good and the whole machine wasn't live with current.

I ordered a couple of fence attachment bars, so I could mount an outfield extension to the planer and jointer. Mounting them with my little wooden jig took a couple of minutes.

Then it was time to make some wood chips. So far I'm extremely pleased with the machine, although I've only used the jointer function.

[Jeff Bartley]

Chris, what brand of dust mask are you using in your video? Don't think I've ever seen one like that.

[Derek Cohen]

Chris, when you switch on the machine, do not stab the starter button, but instead hold it down until the motor is running. This is recommended by Felder to prevent the starter capacitor burning out.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[ChrisA Edwards]

Chris, when you switch on the machine, do not stab the starter button, but instead hold it down until the motor is running. This is recommended by Felder to prevent the starter capacitor burning out.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks, will do.

[ChrisA Edwards]

Chris, what brand of dust mask are you using in your video? Don't think I've ever seen one like that.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Brian Holcombe]

I don’t know how you guys are generally but I like to be over the outfeed as soon as reasonably possible, not pushing the board still toward the near end of the cut.

[ChrisA Edwards]

Totally agree as I guess you were commenting on my technique in the video.

I found it hard to get enough traction, with my bare hands, on the wider widths to overcome the force of the cutter head. So I had to push on the end of the wood to keep it moving forward. Using push pads helped occasionally.

Today I wore a pair of mechanic's style gloves and could get much better control of the wood, with both hands, which allowed me to control were I stood while feeding the wood.