Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 20 of 20

Thread: First post here, some newbie questions

  1. #16
    do have a push block, but there is no splitter or blade guard
    Invest in a MJ Splitter. Also, make some zero clearance inserts for your saw. Your saw is a favorite of many of the users here so you should be able to find out how best to make them.

    Also - what the others are referring to is called "Face jointing" (google it), not edge jointing.
    A planer will not flatten stock, the rollers will push it down and remove material, but, it won't make it flat.

    Google "planer sled" and you'll find the info you need to face join w/out a jointer.


    P>S> welcome!
    Every loaf of bread is a tragic tale of grains that could've become beer.......but didn't....

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Rochester, NY
    Posts
    4,709
    That can be a very serviceable saw. Get it aligned perfectly and put a good carbide blade on it....decent blades start at about $30. Blade choice will ultimately determine how well the saw performs. If all else is equal, more teeth tends to equate to a cleaner cut, but with more resistance, more heat, more chance of burning, and fewer teeth tends to equate to a faster cut, with less resistance, less burning, but a rougher finish. A few good brands to look into are Infinity, Forrest, Freud, Tenryu, Ridge Carbide, CMT, and Amana. For that saw and motor, a decent 3/32" thin kerf blade will pose less resistance and will be easier to spin than a 1/8" full kerf blade. Be sure to match your splitter with the blade thickness if you should add one.

    As others have said, you'll want to flatten a reference face for the planer to work with.....it can be done with the help of a planer sled.
    Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

  3. #18
    Setting aside the improvement in your ability to machine the teak, there are other, just as important, considerations. This link from dapwood.com recommends not using teak wood at all because of health hazards associated with teak. My own personal experience with teak was in just trying to cut a small piece of teak years ago. It was memorable to me because a tiny scratch from a saw blade that had cut the teak resulted in a non-healing wound that lasted several weeks. I'm a doctor, so I can tell you that it was truly a minor scratch, but the small amount of oil that got into the wound caused the wound to be a problem for several weeks.

    So, be cautious with your work and wash any injuries thoroughly.

  4. #19
    I have and use a sled like that. I've used it with rough sawn lumber. You should be fine. Careful where you stand. Definitely get a splitter though.

  5. #20
    Unfortunately there is no other option in the marine environment there is no other wood with the properties of teak. As for the ecological and human rights issues mentioned, I understand the argument, but reading that on a smartphone or laptop made in China or elsewhere in Asia and powered by lithium batteries where do you draw the line? Thanks for the heads up and I will be careful with the handling of the sawdust etc...

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •